TSX projector Retrofit in USDM housings

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TSX Retrofit DIY

Click HERE for the finished video DEMO

After much brainstorming and research on HIDPlanet.com, I finally decided to tackle a retrofit project of my own. I decided to use the Acura TSX projectors for their output, manageable size, and affordability. My retrofit headlights are USDM pieces that I purchased from another member (thanks 93cbh22), because I like the look of the US pieces and love the affordability. I have about 60+ hours into this project to get it done right, so don’t expect a weekend deal. On a scale of 1-10 for difficulty I give this retrofit about an 8, it was very time consuming but completely worth the end result.

I purchased my TSX projectors off of eBay for $150…..I’ve seen them more and less expensive and trust me they’re worth every penny. The TSX projectors require the use of a D2S based HID bulb, and applicable ballast for each side. I ended up purchasing 2 used Philips Generation III ballasts locally for about $200. These ballasts are stock OE equipment on many new Audis. Also purchased a pair of new Philips D2S 4300k bulbs (PN 85122) for my application, this is the best color/temperature bulb for the application as it produces the most usable light. This are also the factory equipt bulbs in the TSX projectors.

The infamous TSX color mod

Color modding can be completed on a variety of HID projectors, and the TSX is one of the easiest to do this on. Color modding simply increases the area of color shift at the projectors cutoff (where light ends/begins) point. It requires that you shim the reflector bowl (rear of projector) away from the lense housing (front of projector) with 2-4 #8 washers at the BOTTOM and not the top. Below is a picture that shows how the color mod is completed and the results of a proper color mod.

TSX projectors

The bulbs (Philips D2S 4300k)

Reflector bowl and internal cutoff shield w/righthand step

Color mod

Color at cutoff



TSX dimensionsAcura TSX Low Beam (Stanley):
Diameter = 71.05mm
Height = 85.30mm
Width = 120.80mm
Length = 156.45mm
Length(seat of the lens to mounting holes) = 42.00mm
Length(mounting holes to end of bulb) = 96.95mm
Width(between top mounting holes) = 100.45mm
Width(between bottom mounting holes) = 103.45mm
Height(between mounting holes) = 41.50mm

(referenced HIDPlanet for dimensions)

Where to begin

Getting started initially was difficult for me because I hadn’t tackled a retrofit project before. Studying up on other peoples retrofit projects provided me with a more enhanced knowledge base to begin with, and increased my chances for a proper and LEGAL retrofit result. I soon learned that you can never know too much about lighting……

Getting your hands dirty

The first order of business was determining just how to mount the projectors. The hardware needs to be solid, but also allow some room for adjustability. There are multiple factors to consider when mounting projectors in ANY headlight:

1)Vertical adjustment of the projector
2)Horizontal adjustment of the projector
3)Rotational adjustment of the projector
4)Clearance for retrofit re-install into your vehicle
5)Providing a tight, weatherproof seal for the modified housings (avoiding fog/condensation issues)

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TSX projectors with mounting studs attached

Here are the bezels that I used, ACE 2”pipe flanges…..about $2.79 each. They just require a little trimming with the dremel for a flush fit, then you JB weld them on from the backside

First you’ve got to pull the stock headlights apart, for me that meant the oven at 225* for about 10-12 minutes, then trim a hole in the back with a dremel. Don’t cut it HUGE!!! I dremelled along a seam on the rear of each housing, and trimmed it larger a little at a time, just take your time here.


Projector set in at approx. full depth


Here are the pics of my projectors set in the housings, I just centered it perfectly and used a marker to index where to drill the four holes. Make sure to have your hardware snug on the projectors, this will ensure more accuracy while indexing the holes.



Once the holes were cut to size I taped off the highbeam reflector, and went to town with the BBQ flat black

I also pulled the projectors apart, remove the lense clips, and painted the front half flat black with the same paint

After things had dried, I re-assembled to see what they looked like. Please not that I also wrapped the seam between the bowl and the leanse housing with aluminum tape to keep light from escaping. This also had to be painted flat black before final assembly.

Test with with bezel and glass (high beam still taped off)

Test fit, no glass…..you MUST insert some shims to secure the bolts against during the finally assembly


I used 3” PVC couples to enclose my headlights, and a 3” rubber cap to seal it all off. Cheap parts from Lowes/The Home Depot

JB weld works GREAT for this, just make sure to scuff both contact surfaces and clean them off well. The PVC should be centered both horizontally and vertically on the back of the OE housing. You’ll need to do some trimming to get a snug fit before applying the adhesive.

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I used some plastic scrap and more JB weld to close off the opening on the top

As you can see, I had to dremel the baskets for clearance. On a JDM (no basket) housing this obviously would not be an issue



I got a whole inch of space to spare!!!


The Wiring Harness

After extensive research and advice from other retrofitted foes, I decided on a stand alone harness for my ballasts. Now, when warmed up and running the ballasts only draw about 35 watts of current, but on startup it can be upwards of 80+ watts!! This is NOT good for the small factory harness wires. Here are some pics of what I fabbed up.

My harness minus the fused link…..that was installed during the headlight swap out.

Ballast protection, just don’t seal them up 100% as they need to breathe. I used some Tupperware-style containers that have locking lids and trimmed them for the pigtails in and out.

You MUST have a dremel for this DIY, did I mention that? lol


Driver’s side ballast, I sacrificed the cruise control…..it barely gets used anyhow

Passenger side

Here’s the passenger side installed and running on the car w/no glass! This is a must for aiming them before you make things permanent. (adjustment is vertical/horizontal/rotational)

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Driver and passenger side during the aiming process, time to align the projectors and shim them with washers if necessary before final fitment.

As you can see, the passenger side needs a tad of rotational adjustment counter-clockwise….probably just a few degrees. It’s important to note that they are supposed to be aimed down a little bit from horizontal. (2.1-2.5” drop over a distance of about 25 feet)

Aiming diagram


Once aligned and shimmed, it’s time to make them more permanent. I used some shims (trimmed BIC pen) and globs of RTV sealant to make sure things are water tight.


The PVC cutouts are for the large D2S ballast plugs



Now it’s time for the glass. I used a NISSAN butyl rubber headlight/taillight sealer (part# B-1756) to close them up. It will allow me to pull the headlights apart in the future if need be after a trip to the oven……silicone or liquid nails wont allow you to do that. You simply apply the sealer (stretch and roll it out to size) in the headlight bucket, pop the entire headlight in the oven to soften the butyl rubber for about 8 minutes at 225*, and put the glass on w/the OE clips.

Finished product


On the car, yeah it’s really dirty and cold….it’s the middle of winter so chill.





There are pics of my cutoff coming, so stay tuned!!!

[d112crzy]

get pics of these babies in action!

[blackice]

Very nice writeup Russ, I can't wait to have you help me on my s2k projector project

[Dom]

nice write up!!

they look real good..

is it a big difference driving at night? can you really see more of the road??

[Bongo]

those things look sick. I can't wait to start mine. Thanx for the DIY

[maroonaccord2.2]

nice write up!!

they look real good..

is it a big difference driving at night? can you really see more of the road??

I'll post some pics tonight, the difference is massive. When I'm driving in the dark on the freeway, you can't even tell that other peoples lights are on.....it's like you're dwarfing them. The light is controlled, and there's a TON of it.

[Sthrnba711]

Great job man. Looks very similiar to the retro i did except i didnt use any bezels. The difference between TSX retrofit and stock headlights is completely night and day. Keep up the ideas and work people and the poor stock lights will all be gone.

[ap716]

wow, nice retros.

[cannedcb7]

good write up!!!! my friend is trading me some tsx headlights with hid's and i thought i wasnt gonna need to buy anything else. so i guess im gonna have to pass on em cuz i aint got a job to buy the extra stuff.

[ACC0RD22]

ill definitley be referring to this thread if I ever decide to do a retrofit.

awesome writeup dude.

[vinbon63]

This is definately a great write up, good job! I cant wait to see more pics.

[blizzard335]

this definitely is a must read..

must do!

now to find some time..