H22 egr issue

[Ghetto_CB7]

Hello all,

I am attempting to fix the mess of an engine swap my friend attempted (h22 in an h23 lude)

Ok well I have fixed the majority of issues, but I get an egr cel EXACTLY as the car reaches normal operating temperature.

Before this there is no egr, but the car drives HORRIBLY at any rpm below v-tec.

Since this egr issue happens exactly as the vehicle hits normal operating temperature I am thinking that the egr itself is bad. I have half checked the vacuum lines, and of course they were wrong. I fixed them but I still get the same issues.

The car runs SOOOOOO bad it is not even functional as a vehicle, and I checked the plugs and he has been running so rich it is not funny.


So far I have fixed alot of things, but it still runs like crap. I don't want to get new plugs until I get all cel's to go away, but I might have to brake down and get some earlier. This poor engine.

Just wondering if anyone has had crappy plugs cause an egr error before? Sorry for the long post for a short question.

[djcaz_aom]

Try using a block off plate.

[4U2H8ME]

I've been thru this problem several times, you've got a couple of options.
1. use a block off plate for the egr.
2. clean egr ports.
3. clean egr ports and replace egr.
if none of these work, you may need to replace a solenoid in the emissions box on the fire wall.

[blackice]

do a quick fix before buying a blockoff plate...cut up a pop can and use that for a blockoff plate. mount the valve back on top and it shouldn't throw a code if the valve is still good. clean the plugs off with a wire brush. might also want to check the resistance on the plug wires along with his base timing.

[wed3k]

yes...check the timing.

[Ghetto_CB7]

Timing

I am fairly sure the timing is right, he has taken the car to a few shops and at least one of them checked the timing with a T-light. He does not have a timing mark on his flywheel (aftermarket) so to check I would just eyeball TDC through the spark plug hole and check the cam gears. (This should be sufficient to see if it is off)

He ordered the engine from HMO and I do not believe he has screwed with the timing at all, so in theory it should be correct.

I will check anyway though, since it runs so bad.

Thanks for the help guys I will keep you updated.

[wed3k]

timing is computer contorlled man.

[Ghetto_CB7]

Timing belt

Have you ever changed a timing belt?

That is most definitely not controlled by a computer. That is what I was am going to check. Ignition, fuel, and air timing are electronically controlled, but that wont do you any good unless you physically have the engine head and block physically timed correctly.

The air fuel and ignition is obviously controlled by the ecu, but even without a cel (before normal operating temperature) the car does not run properly.

Therefor I am going to check the physical timing, and distributor timing (yes i know distributor timing is ignition, but you can physically adjust it) if necessary, then let the ecu control the other parts.

If you have some cool way of checking the others without the use of LOTS of gauges let me and everyone on the board know, it would be nice.

[Losiracer2]

This is the issue I'm running into w/ my H22 swap. I at first got a code 23, 36 and 12 (knock, trac control, and EGR) I put in the Accord MAP stuff but right after i did that, my car is now idling like shit, like it needs more fuel and after 45 sec. it kills itself by suffocation or fuel deprivation. oh, i got rid of the 23 and 12 but the 36 still remained.

What I'm thinking is the guy before me got the H22 MAP sensor in his swap....I bought his wrecked 91 accord so the H22A Auto was already installed in his CB7..... which should introduce more fuel since the prelude injectors are 310 cc's vs only 240 cc's for the Accord ones. So, I just dropped off the H22 MAP sensor box w/ the H22 MAP sensor and whatever else is in that box in the firewall to my swap guy tonight and we'll see what happens.

But this kinda makes sense to me. Since the prelude MAP sensor probably compensates for more fuel at a lower RPM. When I drove my car w/o any MAP sensor it was bogging from take off to about 3k RPM, BUT it was idling Perfect. After I put the Accord MAP sensor in, thats when the idle turned to shit. So this H22 MAP sensor should do it.

[Ghetto_CB7]

I don't think so

The map sensor does exactly that. It senses. It does not do any compensation on its own. The ecu is what will compensate. So if you are running the correct ecu then the map should not matter, as long as it talks correctly with the ecu.

[blackice]

the map sensor only collects information about the manifold absolute pressure, the ecu uses it to calculate air density and flow and in turn uses it to calculate fuel flow...you can use either the f22 accord one or the h22's like some people do with the obd2 throttle bodies.

[R33cb7]

Check the vac lines............

If i't still running like crap, check all of the vac lines. This happened to me, and I got some codes when I started it. I corrected it by redoing EVERY vac line and making 100% sure it was plugged into the right place. This includes opening up the black box on the firewall and redoing those as well. Use the F22 vac diagram as a reference.

EGR: Had the same problem. What caused mine was the vaccum hoses. I had them mixed up. You need to check the black box on the firewall and make sure that hose #16 is going to the EGR, and that the EGR is not hooked up to the hose going over the fuel injection wires. It might be short, as in my case, so get some extra hose and a plastic elbow and extend #16 from the black control box on the firewall and connect it to the EGR. I also cleaned out the EGR. It's super easy. Take the 2 nuts off the EGR, they should be a 12MM. Next, get some carb cleaner, q-tips, and a toothbrush and clean all the black carbon off of the inside of the EGR. Done. Now for where the EGR sits: Jack up the driver's side of the car and put a jack stand on the drivers side so that the passenger side is lower than the drivers side. Spray carb cleaner into where the EGR sits on the intake. Use the Q-tips and a tooth brush and get all that carbon out. (the reason why the car is jacked up on one side is so you don't get carb cleaner all up in your intake.) Make sure the intake is dry on the inside and put the EGR back on.


ECU: Wrong pins in the wrong locatins will give you a CEL. Check your VTEC and Knock Sensor wiring again.



**Note: Make sure the vacuum hoses are connected properly in the Control Box located on the firewall**





**Note: Use this diagram to connect all of the hoses to your H22**

[Ghetto_CB7]

Wirering / black box

Since this is a prelude no black box exists, but I have verified that the lines are now run correctly (they weren't until I fixed it). And the knock sensor is wired correctly, and I am 90% sure v-tec is wired right because an h22 was the last engine in the car.

I will still check though. Who knows, since I looked at it for a little over an hour I found a multitude of major errors on installation.

[Losiracer2]

is having that charcoal canister really necessary? the swap guy says it isn't. But right now there's an open vac. port on the plenum....won't that cause it to not idle right and stuff?

[Ghetto_CB7]

Just plugg the nipple

Just get a nipple plug from autozone, or go to a junk yard and steal one.