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    depressed results in h22 swap

    well i finally was able to head to the track. and just overall depressed on the time results with my jdm h22a. i put so much work, various parts and so forth. and my lowest quarter mile time was a 15.9. couldnt understand it. people tell me im supposed to be seeing like low 15's.

    the only thing i can think that is holding me back is a valve adjustment, stock injectors, and a lil debuggin. anyone can tell me any reason why my h22 isnt up to par?


    Michalob's CB7

    #2
    well.... stock injectors are perfectly fine.
    it would be pointless to use hi-flow injectors without substantial motor upgrades

    no offense, but you could be seeing low times due to poor driving.

    try getting it dyno'd (on a dynojet)

    if you're seeing around 170whp, it's pretty healthy

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      #3
      What type of trans are you running? Injectors shouldnt matter. What needs to be debugged and if you havent dont a valve adjustment it should be done soon if its bad. Also it can depend on your driving and such.

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        #4
        yeah, the only reason why i got performance injectors was because i couldnt find anything else quickly. all stock injectors from auto stores needed to be shipped. i gotta find stock ones because i have no need for them.

        yeah valve adjustment is soon, as well as some other debugging. thinking about get a aftermarket cat. im still running the stock one and it may be bad. who knows? heard of horror stories of a cat bogging cars down.

        the tranny im running is an h23 with 12 lb fly and stage 1 clutch. so it does the job and shouldnt be slowing me down compared to the h22 tranny.

        and as the driving goes, i dont think im all that bad of a driver. my luanch and 60 footer times were fairly well. i was shooting around a mid to low 16 with my f22 so once again. just dissappointment for me.


        Michalob's CB7

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          #5
          what ecu are you using?
          WTB:
          88-01 prelude 2.0si (3g) si (4g,5g)
          OR
          90-93 Accord.

          Has to be 5spd, has to be CHEAP. SUPER CHEAP. Will be in Indiana in February permanently and want a project car when I get settled in.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Michalob
            yeah, the only reason why i got performance injectors was because i couldnt find anything else quickly. all stock injectors from auto stores needed to be shipped. i gotta find stock ones because i have no need for them.

            yeah valve adjustment is soon, as well as some other debugging. thinking about get a aftermarket cat. im still running the stock one and it may be bad. who knows? heard of horror stories of a cat bogging cars down.

            the tranny im running is an h23 with 12 lb fly and stage 1 clutch. so it does the job and shouldnt be slowing me down compared to the h22 tranny.

            and as the driving goes, i dont think im all that bad of a driver. my luanch and 60 footer times were fairly well. i was shooting around a mid to low 16 with my f22 so once again. just dissappointment for me.
            well, shorter gearing means faster acceleration.

            and theh strip is all acceleration.
            I <3 G60.

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              #7
              you need to share some better info:

              what was your MPH?

              What was your 60'?

              also if possible share your 1/8 time and mph as well.

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                #8
                First thing I would do is get some stock injectors. Jdm h22a's run rich enough stock lol. I also see you have an fpr installed...might wanna scrap that til u can dynotune and see whats going on with ur fprs. If the cat is the stock accord one thats also gonna be a bottleneck since the stock accord exhaust is around 1 7/8" and the stock lude one is 2.25. Other things you might check are the knock sensor, egr valve, and iacv. Run some seafoam through and clean some of the carbon out because those engines do sit there for awhile. The iabs shouldn't make that big a difference at all though. The h23 tranny may be slowing you down a bit, but I would concentrate on your launch and 60' time at the track and I'm sure you will start pulling some low 15's.
                Retired 1990 Accord LX Coupe
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                Originally posted by chillin943
                anyone kno if i can just make a hot wire for v-tec off the horn??
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                  #9
                  With IHE, the H22 runs quite rich with the P13. That can cause some power loss. The H23 tranny, while better than the F22 tranny, is still geared differently. I can't think of the exact specs in my head right now, but it's not a match for the H22. If you're shifting at 7200 and landing below the VTEC point, that will hurt you considerably. The low rpm lobe is out of it's powerband by 4500 or so. Landing in that dead zone between 4500 and 5200 is not good.

                  For optimal exhaust flow, you'll want a 2.5" exhaust, and a cat to match. Bottlenecks kill. If you have a 1.75" bottleneck anywhere, you might as well have a 1.75" exhaust. If you get an aftermarket cat, get a good one. SMSP charges like 120 for one, I think.


                  If your launch is good and your 60' is good, then the problem is either in your shifting, or in your power production. Get your shift points right, and you'll know if it's that or not. If it IS the power, check compression, exhaust flow, ignition components, tire pressure, motor oil, and anything else that can be slowing you down.






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                    #10
                    Well like most people stated driving has a lot to do with it. VTEC motors are pretty finicky. Launch too high too fast and you just spin tires, launch too low and you bog out. You may also want to check out the mechanical state of your motor. As for the H23 tranny it's not that big of a deal. You simply have to shift a little deeper (around 7500 rpm's or so). My H22 put down around 165hp with some ricer I/E/H. My best 1/4 mile run was 15.003 with a 2.4 60 foot and an H23 tranny. (I'm still using the trans.)
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                      #11
                      Well thanks for the good input guys. I have mainly bolt ons so im guessing the running rich doesnt help much. Exhuast, sadly, running 2.25 all the way. Which i believe is optimal for a mild engine. In due time i would love to get a new ECU but MRX is still researching and trying to fix the map for a H22. Patiently waiting for that one

                      I dont think the tranny is really killing me, but none the less i just fall out of VTEC, not sure but i think its only 200 rpms.

                      As i slowly look over the engine more and more, i find little things. but i still think there is something im missing. I was watching a few videos online of stock h22's and i just see they are accelerating much quicker. I just cant figure out what is wrong with mine. valve timing?, adjustment?, bad ECU? but all i know is by time i finally figure it out, its going to be like a new engine.

                      oh yeah, got normal injectors. FPR was taken off awhile ago, but i am now using a prelude fuel rail now too. also made sure my IAB's are working correctly. seemed to make the car run smoother, maybe a lil quicker. but not saisfied.
                      Last edited by Michalob; 07-27-2006, 07:53 AM.


                      Michalob's CB7

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                        #12
                        how about those MPH's and 60 foots?

                        honestly nothing that anyone has said so far means anything unless you can post how fast you went. If you are doing the 1/4 mile at a very high speed, yet have high 60 foots it means you are a shitty driver. If your mph is low it means low power output which can be caused by many things.

                        For example you say you have aftermarket injectors....what is their flow rate?
                        Are you running a prelude FPR that has fuel pressure around 36-40 psi?
                        Or are you running an accord or later model prelude one that can up pressure to 43-50 psi which WILL make it run rich?
                        as far as an h23 transmission you just need to shift a little higher. I have used one with great results allowing me to run a 13 flat with my hatch in the 1/4 mile. Aim for a 7500rpm shift or even a litlte higher on the tach, and as logn as you dont shift like rowing in mud you will be within vtec range, after all at full throttle the cu should allow you to stay in vtec down to around 4900 rpm.

                        and what ecu do you run? stock p13 or are you running a pile of shit h22 p28 basemap???


                        You cannot judge what needs to be changed or replaced if you do not give the full story and the MPH and 60 foot help that a lot...

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                          #13
                          H22s are notorious for needing constant valve adjustments. I need to do mine badly.

                          If you're falling 200 rpm short of vtec, that'll make a big difference. Have you ever shifted too early while driving normally, landed at around 1800, and bogged for a few hundred rpm? It's pretty much the same thing.






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                            #14
                            Originally posted by deevergote
                            H22s are notorious for needing constant valve adjustments. I need to do mine badly.

                            If you're falling 200 rpm short of vtec, that'll make a big difference. Have you ever shifted too early while driving normally, landed at around 1800, and bogged for a few hundred rpm? It's pretty much the same thing.
                            OO i know its a difference, but enough of a difference to kill a second in a quater mile? as i said my best run was a 15.9... worst was a 16.4? i dont think a cripple can run a normal h22 that bad.... no offense to anyone cripple.

                            How bout this for a question? Do you notice a good difference in power with a valve adjustment? i would think i need one due to what we had to do to get this engine running. When i got the engine, it must have been sitting for awhile because the some intake valves were acually seized causing no compression at first. after awhile some loosed, but for 2, we had to give them alot of "convincing" to get them moving. unfortunatly some blows with a hammer are obviously NOT a good thing, but it was the only way it could have been at them time....
                            Last edited by Michalob; 07-27-2006, 11:29 AM.


                            Michalob's CB7

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Michalob
                              When i got the engine, it must have been sitting for awhile because the some intake valves were acually seized causing no compression at first. after awhile some loosed, but for 2, we had to give them alot of "convincing" to get them moving. unfortunatly some blows with a hammer are obviously NOT a good thing, but it was the only way it could have been at them time....
                              And you didnt stop to think that MABYE...just MABYE, the motor is not in great condition? and you are wondering why your motor is lacking power??

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