h22a mods for 13's

[myk]

My goal originally was to get my cb7 into the 13's if not the low 14's. Was tinkering with the idea of f22 turbo but ended up choosing N/A because of reliability issues. N/A meaning h22 swap . As it goes I have a CAI installed and im working on saving for a RS*R catback and just running a custom straight pipe from my jdm dp. I know weight reduction will help with lower times but im wondering what I can do for relatively low cost that will improve acceleration and overall 1/4 time. I was reading around and tinkering with the idea of getter a apexi V-AFC 2 or a vtec/afc along those lines for some tuning. Not sure how much that will help me out if I dont have any datalogging devices like a wideband o2. *chime in with ur knowledge*, and if I were to do fuel tuning would some fuel system upgrades injectors, pump, regulator be needed, im not going extreme or anything yet. Still researching my ass off

[h22sparkle]

My goal originally was to get my cb7 into the 13's if not the low 14's. Was tinkering with the idea of f22 turbo but ended up choosing N/A because of reliability issues. N/A meaning h22 swap . As it goes I have a CAI installed and im working on saving for a RS*R catback and just running a custom straight pipe from my jdm dp. I know weight reduction will help with lower times but im wondering what I can do for relatively low cost that will improve acceleration and overall 1/4 time. I was reading around and tinkering with the idea of getter a apexi V-AFC 2 or a vtec/afc along those lines for some tuning. Not sure how much that will help me out if I dont have any datalogging devices like a wideband o2. *chime in with ur knowledge*, and if I were to do fuel tuning would some fuel system upgrades injectors, pump, regulator be needed, im not going extreme or anything yet. Still researching my ass off

get a zex wet kit 75 shot,bfg drag radials,collectiver-racing traction control bars,lsd no need for a vafc stock ecu and pull back timing 93 octane ,do away with p/s,a/c,spare/jack/antenae,a/c compressor and condensor,cruise control,rear seats and get racing seats. Preferably the tenzo r rally evolution seats and forbidden shortshifter. And your done and ready for 13's perhaps 12's

[blackice]

If you are serious about getting the best performance out of your h22, I'd skip getting the vafc and get a chipped ecu running uberdata or crome. Check out some of the threads by MRX. The thing about vafcs that sucks is you can't independantly adjust your fuel and ignition. Check this article out. http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view/...PiggybacksSuck

An lsd transmission with your swap will definately help your launches and 60ft times like h22sparkle said. For minor mods you wont really need any fuel system upgrades. If you plan to run nitrous in the future you may want to look into that though along with an msd ignition upgrade. Also check out overbored throttle bodies, pnp heads, and cams (along with upgraded valve train of course). Some other stuff you might want would be a good clutch (I prefer a stage 2), lightened flywheel (I prefer a 12lb) and then some weight reduction.

[koolkoreanked]

well Nitrous defanitly isn't n/a but I too would recommend a 50-75 wet shot. On my car with just the 50 shot and nothing else done I'm pulling on cars that run 14 flat in the quarter. So the power is there you just need traction. Hell everything h22sparkle said will do tho I dont think you need to do any stripping of the car.

[deevergote]

I'm hoping for 13.8 with some decent cams, a good header, good tuning (cam and ECU) and perhaps headwork. I might be hoping for too much

[NAiL05]

Cams, headwork as mentioned, good set of tires and losing some weight will help net quarter times around 13s.

[SoySauceCb7]

[QUOTE=deevergote]I'm hoping for 13.8 with some decent cams, a good header, good tuning (cam and ECU) and perhaps headwork. I might be hoping for too much [/QUOTE
dam deeve, just cut those fenders out and install the REAL slicks. Then youll be pulling some impressive 60 footers. just keep some spare axles.

[deevergote]

lol yeah, i know it. I gotta mount those drag radials i have in my trunk...

[myk]

hmmm, thx for the input and a chipped/tuned ecu was on my mind forgot to add that earlier. Looks as if launches is what really cuts the time down. LSD was on my mind but for $$$ reasons i opted out of it intially and just have the non lsd tranny. I'll take everything into consideration but what would you say I should do first? purchase wise, ya i know i could go outside right now and strip everything down lol. Would getting the chipped ecu be a good start?

[NAiL05]

Good tires are always a good start. ECU and tuning I recommend doing that after you get your other stuff such as exhaust, header, intake, headwork, blah blah blah So you can get it all tuned at the same time and save you from taking unnecessary trips back to the dyno and wasting your money.

[deevergote]

If you have the means to tune the ECU, or know someone that can, then yes. It's a good idea. However, whenever you change your configuration, you'll want to tune again to take full advantage. If you don't plan on doing more motor mods for a while, then go for a tune. Take it to a dyno and do it right... (I had MRX tune my motor 2 months ago, even though I'm planning on cam upgrades... still, he brought my mpg from about 23 to 28+)

If you want better 60ft times, and don't want to spend a whole lot of money, you could look into something less expensive... Phantom Grip or OBX. Both will get LOTS of "wtf are you doing!" from people, but so far I haven't really heard of proper installations of either going wrong. (yeah, you could show me a shattered OBX LSD, but I could show you a shattered KAAZ as well...)
Also, for $200, you can get a set of drag radials. OR, look around for some used ones. Serious racers at the track will throw away tires with plenty of life left on them. For pros, they won't give the consistency and 100% performance they want. But for an amateur, they're still better than street tires.

[bjaccord]

Just keep in mind that you don't want anymore tire than you need.
Have any of you ever walked down a dragstrip? It's a sticky, sticky place, walking down it makes your legs tired very quickly. So if you have alot more tire than you need, it will slow you down in the top end. I've pulled 2.0 60ft's on 205/50/15 BFG's and thats plenty of tire for an n/a h22. Running your hard winter tires or just some cheap hard compound tires in the rear will help with this as well.
If you have adjustable shocks, go full stiff in the rear, and if coilovers, remember that "lower=lighter", so drop the ass end down all the way, it will prevent squat and put more weight on the front tires.

As far as power, focus on the head for the h22. It flows good to start, and responds well to valvetrain upgrades.
And last but not least, practice. The more trips you take down the strip, the better you'll get. L8r and good luck

[Accord13&BA4]

Since you're staying N/A, i could only suggest one thing to help your times(in performace wise that is). How about a lighten flywheel and stage 3 clutch?

You'll notice the revs, great mod for the strip.

Weight reduction, lighter rims, stickier tires are all important as well...

[myk]

Thanks for the additional input as for tires I think im gonna opt for a street/track set something that I can just run in the summer and use cheap winter tires. 2 sets of tires seems pricey, even if its just 2 tires for the front.On the clutch-side I have a stage 1 ( a cheap one grips okay but I shoulda opted for something better) and just a resurfaced oem flywheel, the only thing I was worried about was how hard it would be, now I kinda wish I woulda got a stage 2 and a lightened flywheel. Maybe even the stage 3, It grips but im afraid to be harsh on it because im not sure if it will last today I could smell it burning when I dropped it but somehow i musta not all the way and it just rubbed on the flywheel , I pushed it in right away but it still had a good grind from the smell of it, one more thing is what do you guys shift at (RPM's) ya newb q's but i was on the f22 for far to long and the h22 has crazy more revs. I'll probably find the answer searching but seeing as im posting here on running good quarter times might as well

[deevergote]

I shift at about 7200... find where you can shift and stay in VTEC. Dropping below VTEC is a bad thing. At 4800-5199, the small lobes are pretty much out of their powerband (that's why many people drop the VTEC point to 4800) Don't bounce off the limiter, but go high enough to shift into VTEC in the next gear... that'll be your best shifting strategy.

Lighter rims are certainly a good idea... but don't go bigger. 16" is the limit for reasonable wheel size, and even that is too big. If you found some lightweight 14" wheels and ran some good slicks, you'd be good. I personally am running some OEM 15" alloys... contemplating putting my drag radials on some lightweight wheels (like Rota Slipstreams).

Be careful with a lightweight flywheel. I've heard mixed reviews on whether or not it helps or harms drag performance... but going too light will let the engine rev down too quickly. Lightened flywheels are better used for road racing, where downshifting and rev matching are important. If you go light, I say go middle of the road and get a 12 lb wheel. Those 7 and 8 lb wheels are just too light. Some people may argue with me there, and they may be right... but I'm happy with my 12.

Keeping the rear as stiff and light as possible is very smart. Go with as little gas as you can, stiffen those shocks if you can, and even stiffen up the springs if possible. I met a guy that actually shoved blocks of wood between the coils to prevent the rear from squatting. I'm not sure how good that is for the spring, but it certainly keeps that rear end stiff!

As for the hard compound tires in the rear, I never heard that before. Good thinking! I thought about running a set of donuts in the back... if they weren't speed limited, I would try it. Some skinnies with a hard tire would be an even better idea.