I h8 being a nu-b

[tuna]

Hi all.
I hate being a newbie.

Ok, realistically, I am not a newbie. I have been on other forums, and now that I have found one specifically for Accords, I think I like it.

I hate being fresh to a forum.

I found the information that I needed, I hope. If anyone else has any input please chime in and say so.

My car revs to ~3500 and then its like a rev limiter kicks in. I read on the (click here first) thread, and saw that someone had a wiring problem with their injectors. This was the last entry on the first page.


WHAT I DID:

I was in the middle of a tranny swap (M2S4), and decided that I wanted to try starting the car to make sure it would run. When I did, the car was acting like there was a rev limiter.

I have a CEL, (or MIL if you prefer) and the d#$% ECU will not give me any codes. (I know about the diag connector in the passenger kick panel.)

All I know is that when I rev the car it stalls and hesitates at +/- 3500 rpm.

I replaced the fuel filter and that made very little difference.

SIDE NOTE:
I have the MSD cap and Blaster2 coil conversion, and noticed that a few times the rotor was arcing to the botched up wiring job that I did underneath. I resoldered that and ended the problem. I checked the Ignition mod at work, and it tested fine.

Could this have done any other damage that I have over looked? I cant find blown fuses, in either of the 2 boxes, nor can I see any wiring that got pinched in the bellhousing. I am at my wits end. Someone offer me some advice?

Thanks.
Tuna

[Maple50175]

Sure you may not be a noob, but your noob on this website. That's why your at a noob status. Just make some good posts hit your 30 mark and you will be golden.
Welcome and stay awhile

[blackice]

i assume you reset the ecu already...leave the diag wire jumped when you rev it, if it gives no code your ecu may be shot. being able to rev to only 3500 sounds like it's in limp mode which would be caused by whatever cel you are throwing or bad ecu. did the car run like that before the tranny swap? if not check all your grounds etc and make sure nothing is loose

[cannedcb7]

u might of done some damage to your dizzy.
id get the ignition module checked out.
or if possible swap it with a friends to check if its ur dizzy.

[tuna]

OK. When I parked the car in my driveway, it ran fine. Turned up fast too. It felt great. I drove the car home when I got it and the donut tire caused the tranny to go bad. (so I was told)

So I decided to get a tranny swap out of a Prelude, and swap it in.

Every thing is going great except for the rev problem. I am curious if the ECU didnt go bad. I did see it arc to the wiring inside the distrib. I figured the ignition mod would have went bad first though. I tested the mod.

I cant see why a ECU would just go bad because the tranny was swapped out though. Can the arcing inside the cap cause the EU to shoot?
HOW? I figure the Ig/mod would act as a buffer and blow first...

(sigh) I hope it isn't the ECU. I dont wanna have to buy a modded ECU already. I havent put 100 miles on this car yet.

(sob) Its cause Im old isn't it?

Oh well. Thanks for the input guys. Keep it rolling.

Tuna

EDIT: I forgot to mention that I work at O'Reilly Auto Parts as Assistant Store Manager. I tested the modeule on our DIS tester. It tested fine on HI and LO RPM. Can it be anything else?

Why can't I get any codes out of the ECU? I did that once other time and had a VSS sensor. I ignored it since I was swapping the tranny anyway.

[CrazyHondaOwnR]

(sigh) I hope it isn't the ECU. I dont wanna have to buy a modded ECU already. I havent put 100 miles on this car yet.

(sob) Its cause Im old isn't it?

i cant really add to the info thats allready here .....how many miles did/dose the car have on it ?...somtimes the ecu's just go bad one of those mysterys of the universe.....but if your ecu is a pt3 i got one i'll let go for cheap

[Accord R33]

sounds like the ECU to me. your stuck at 3500 because your in limp mode. and if you try to jump the ECU for codes, and the CEL doesnt flash, that means code0, or fried ECU.

stock accord ECUs go for real cheap..im talking < $35.

[owequitit]

sounds like the ECU to me. your stuck at 3500 because your in limp mode. and if you try to jump the ECU for codes, and the CEL doesnt flash, that means code0, or fried ECU.

stock accord ECUs go for real cheap..im talking < $35.

I am tending to agree with Accord R33.

The fact that it triggered a light with no code is indicative of a code 0.

The arcing to wiring you had hooked up very easily could have fried the ECU. It does discharge at 20,000+ volts after all. Unfortunately, they can be very sensitive.

I would see if you can't find a known good ECU laying around, or that someone else around you has, and try that first.

[tuna]

Sounds like real info here... I just hate to attempt buying a potential fried off Ebay or someplace like that. I guess I just have to try to find one.

If I wanted Hondata, something nice with a PC link, what are some suggestions for that?

I want to do the Mobile PC like Honda Tuning did in their last issue. I thnk that is cool.
Besides. I have a citywide wireless ISP here that would let me put my car online.

(Then I have to worry about hackers changing my fuel maps etc., huh?)

Heh heh.
Tuna

[owequitit]

Sounds like real info here... I just hate to attempt buying a potential fried off Ebay or someplace like that. I guess I just have to try to find one.

If I wanted Hondata, something nice with a PC link, what are some suggestions for that?

I want to do the Mobile PC like Honda Tuning did in their last issue. I thnk that is cool.
Besides. I have a citywide wireless ISP here that would let me put my car online.

(Then I have to worry about hackers changing my fuel maps etc., huh?)

Heh heh.
Tuna

You could always talk to someone like MRX or D112crzy about Uberdata or Chrome on an existing OBD-I Honda Civic ECU. You would have to pay to have the ECU modified, but the software is free, and there are probably decent basemaps out there floating around somewhere.

[tuna]

OK I have downloaded all of the zips, RaRs and EXEs from PGMFI.org. I am going to go home and play with t hem a little. I wish I had the setup to actually use them with.

(sigh) Oh well. At leas maybe I'll get to play wiffem.

Tuna

[Accord R33]

if your interested. i have a chiped ECU (p06) here ready to go..

[tuna]

if your interested. i have a chiped ECU (p06) here ready to go..

I might be. Is the P06 Vtec friendly after mod? If so, I mean how. I have been reading about them. I really wish I could get a p28 modded.

I question. Does your ECU link through USB or what?
I heard someone used serial or LPT???

Anyway how much? I can't check this forum for several days now. My ISP is closed on sunday. I dont have Internet at home yet.

Holla,
Tuna

[Accord R33]

regualr price is $140. with the VTEC conversion its another $20.

you can buy the usb datalog cable from moates.net for $30, and if you're really into it, the Moates.net ostritch, which is $180

[Leviathon]

good luck dude, i couldn't figure out that Uberdata or crome stuff