Cisco's TPS CEL issue

[d112crzy]

that is all. lol. been trying to figure out why he throws a cel. its driving me crazy. gots my mind thikning

[maroonaccord2.2]

What a pita, good luck man....you'll get it.

[k-mart]

sleep on it. new day tomorrow.

[d112crzy]

NO! i will not sleep till we solve this, lol.

[HondaFan81]

I have a Maxbore 67-64mm taper H23 TB on my red Accord setup.

I get no CEL on start up or driving normally, works fine. I get a CEL # 7 (TPS code), when I really get on the throttle and wind up the RPMs (like going to 7000 rpm & shifting). It doesn't seem to happen if I 3/4 throttle it...only when I push the gas all the way down as I'm upshifting. The thing is, it doesn't feel like it's affecting driveability in the higher RPMs when the CEL comes on and STAYS on. Once you turn off the car and start back up, CEL goes away.

Any guesses? I've gone through the Helms troubleshooting and have replaced TPS with another & reset it (still does it), even swapped my other P06 ECU (still does it), checked wiring from ECU to TPS (same wiring as original, never did it when I was stock F22a1). I am setting the TPS properly, as it works fine but only in this one condition. I get 0.45V closed and like 4.95V WOT. My throttle rotor is FULLY closing, even when I slowly close it..I can see and feel it hit the hard stop...when it closes everytime it goes back to 0.45V reading. I've checked the ground at the TPS, the constant power and all are fine.

My guess is, based on the Helms saying a 2nd more than likely cause to TPS is "loss of power", perhaps at WOT condition I'm losing power for a split second and the TPS CEL goes off?? Wouldn't other CELs occur if that happened? I would expect a MAP sensor code too, since I found out the yel/wht constant power wire from TPS goes to the MAP sensor as well as a red/wht wire.

Discuss....lead me somewhere that could make sense

[d112crzy]

watcha, your engine is gona blow up, lol!!

that would suck

[k-mart]

..it's more of an annoyance than anything..doesn't affect driveability (atleast I don't feel it).

the CEL?

i was throwin the TPS CEL for the longest time after i swapped. i never felt it, but finally got off my ass to rid it away forever! pretty unorthodox procedure, but i havent seen it since.

[HondaFan81]

the CEL?

i was throwin the TPS CEL for the longest time after i swapped. i never felt it, but finally got off my ass to rid it away forever! pretty unorthodox procedure, but i havent seen it since.

intrigue me

[HondaFan81]

Wondering if it's a power issue at high rpms...like a glitch in the constant power source to the TPS, in which case the MAP sensor seems like it would be affected as well, both sharing the same constant power source.

[k-mart]

intrigue me

i replied to your PM. hope that helps!

[HondaFan81]

i replied to your PM. hope that helps!

No it did not, thanks anyways. I do not have TPS reset issues. I have set my TPS many times and it gets the standard 0.45V closed and like 4.95V WOT, it fully closes back to 0.45V each time and I feel it snap close, even when closed slowly. I've swapped another TPS and that was reset fine, still gives me a CEL in the condition described above.

Keep in mind, my CEL comes on in the higher RPMS when I'm getting on it. It does not come on when I start up the car or am just driving normally at all!

Next...

[d112crzy]

i already told you. I still think its the actual throttle body. it could be opening too much that maybe its also closing.

[blackice]

hopefully this might give you some ideas...sorry for the huge pics edit:resized em a bit

[HondaFan81]

Anyhow, the TPS issue after talking with Scott/Owequitit, may be that the bored TB is physically opening too much tripping out the TPS. I will be investigating this issue very soon, just have other things going on right now. If so, I can possibly modify my bored H23 TB by raising the WOT stop using a hex-head screw for adjustable height & locknut. I'd have to drill/tap into the WOT stop area of the TB, find out what height the screw needs to be based on TPS voltage readings for proper WOT readings, then lock the screw down. I'll test this out on a spare F22 TB I have that doesn't have a TPS to see if I should have enough metal to drill/tap a small bit and accomplish this, last thing I need is to thru-drill my bored TB and have a nice hole in it.

[HondaFan81]

blackice:

I appreciate the time on posting the pics, but I have a Helms/Honda factory manual....come on now I've already looked into this, maybe I forgot to mention it. It passes all tests.

What I'm not sure on and will verify using a couple of our stock Accords as test subjects is, what should the WOT TPS voltage value be or within a certain range. If you look at the TPS voltage graph above you will see it tops out at 4.5V for WOT condition. My bored H23 TB goes up to 4.95V @ WOT!!

After I check WOT TPS voltage readings on two stock Accords, both I assume to show similar values (according to Owequitit/Scott, he says most he's seen in stock are 4.5-4.6V if he remembers correctly), then I will do the screw/locknut fix I came up with.