fleetw00d: 1993 Accord SE

[Fleetw00d]

I'm not sure this one deserves an MRT, but I figure it's as good a place as any to document the project.



ENGINE
- Stock F22A6, 201,800 miles
- Stock automatic transmission

EXTERIOR
- Stock, NO rust, paint has seen better days
- Tinted windows in relatively good shape
- Stub antenna

INTERIOR
- Installed 99 Acura 2.3 CL front buckets (power driver seat), otherwise stock tan leather interior

SUSPENSION/WHEELS
- OEM suspension
- MB Wheels 15 x 6.5 seven spokes
- 195/65-15 Yokohamas

AUDIO/ELECTRONICS
- Aftermarket radio, removed/bypass Bose amp, EX speakers

FUTURE PLANS
- Get it running, fix it up, clean it up, probably sell it.

Another rescue project, I couldn't let the rust free body go to a scrap yard. Previous owner said it just quit running one day. He had a friend work on it some, but I don't think either one of them knew what they were doing. The cam turned and fuel pump ran so I was hoping it was an easy fix. Charged the battery. Finally got to check it some this evening. It had spark, but made no attempt to fire. Engine seemed to turn relatively easily, so I checked compression in #1 - zero. Pulled the valve cover; most of the valves were adjusted very loose and cam timing was WAY off - here's hoping nothing is bent. I managed to retime the cam and start adjusting the valves, but the adjusting screw for the first exhaust valve on #1 wouldn't turn in the rocker to the point of starting to strip the slot. I was able to put two nuts on it to break it loose, then had to quit for the evening.

[cp[mike]]

i love it! looks strangely familiar...

about the motor, surprised you don't have an extra head sitting around? why not just get a spare head, milled, with a fresh headgasket. Not too much work for a solid motor and peace of mind on a "new" car that you pick up.

[Fleetw00d]

i love it! looks strangely familiar...

about the motor, surprised you don't have an extra head sitting around? why not just get a spare head, milled, with a fresh headgasket. Not too much work for a solid motor and peace of mind on a "new" car that you pick up.

The only head I have around is that on the engine (F22A1 w/ 331k) from Ruby; and the K24 head from the Element engine (which obviously won't work). If setting the timing and adjusting the valves correctly doesn't fix the problem, I may go that route.

You didn't put different seats in yours (and still have the old ones), did you?

[cp[mike]]

You didn't put different seats in yours (and still have the old ones), did you?

My driver side is shredded, and the passenger isn't too bad, just a little stiff. I've been curious if using a Passenger leather skin would fit on the driver side....... I've been keeping an eye on the local junkyard inventory for any '93 SEs. I'd imagine similarly, a sedan skin may be a potential candidate.

Anyway I haven't yet put different seats in mine, though I plan to very soon, in an effort of getting them out of the garage so they stop taking up space. I will see if I can get them installed before December, that way I can give you the stock ones.

[Fleetw00d]

My passenger side might be passable with some cleaning. If I find a set of reasonable cloth seats, I may go that route.

[Rilas]

Fleetwood I don't think I'm ever going to use the leather seats I have saved from my coupe. If they are the same style I wouldn't mind skinning them, and passing along the skins. If you can get a picture of your seats up. I've seen 2 different sewing styles on the SE coupe seats so far.

[Fleetw00d]

Well, you buys 'em cheap, you takes your chances. So much for the easy fix. Timed the cam, adjusted valves (all were set very loose), still ZERO compression on any cylinder. If a valve is bent, would you see enough of a difference in the amount of valve adjuster threads above the lock nut? They all look fairly even. Is it possible to bend every valve if the timing belt jumps time?

I'll probably try pressurizing each cylinder and listen for air leaking into the intake or exhaust.

Considering my options: anyone need a rust free shell as a project base? F22A6 and 5 speed available locally for $200 (supposedly running when removed from car).

EDIT: Note, the above two options are 1. Sell the shell as is or 2. Buy an engine and transmission currently listed on local craigslist and use that to get this one running. I could just swap heads and sell the transmission to recoup some of the purchase price.

[toycar]

Well, you buys 'em cheap, you takes your chances. So much for the easy fix. Timed the cam, adjusted valves (all were set very loose), still ZERO compression on any cylinder. If a valve is bent, would you see enough of a difference in the amount of valve adjuster threads above the lock nut? They all look fairly even. Is it possible to bend every valve if the timing belt jumps time?

I'll probably try pressurizing each cylinder and listen for air leaking into the intake or exhaust.

Considering my options: anyone need a rust free shell as a project base? F22A6 and 5 speed available locally for $200 (supposedly running when removed from car).

damn I wish you were closer. it's like 12 hours from here. I'd pay 3x your asking price/more delivered

lol

[Fleetw00d]

As I expected. Pressurized #1 at TDC and massive leak from at least the exhaust side. Pulled the head; multiple bent valves. Pistons look OK. $300+ valve job plus the cost of any bent valves or just swap the head from a locally available A6 (reported running when removed) and 5 speed with all accessories (could probably sell the tranny and accessories to cover most of the cost of the engine & trans) - decisions, decisions.

[toycar]

I vote 5 spd se

[Fleetw00d]

I vote 5 spd se

Maybe if I planned to keep it.

Other option would be just a JY head. How good a compression check can one do cranking the engine by hand? EDIT: Answered my own question. I could generate 40+ psi per cylinder cranking by hand with short strokes (suspension was in the way and I didn't have a real long 1/2 extension).

[dhill_cb7]

Fleetwood, if you were closer to me I would love to help on these projects. Shame that shell could use my engine. (after we fix the gremlin oil leak! )

I had a bad feeling when I read the first post and you said you got it for next to nothing.

Worst case equals a rust free shell. Best case is you sell it and make your money back.

At least you have the space in your driveway to hang on to it while you decide what needs to be done.

[Fleetw00d]

I wasn't too worried when I bought it - I could have gotten my money back by simply selling to a local U Pull yard. When I parted out Emmy (93 EX coupe) after the wreck, I probably made over $1000 on parts and used several hundred $ worth of parts (wheels, newer tires, etc.) on my own cars. So I just have to put up with it intact in the driveway or in parts in the garage (and my wife has to put up with me!).

Not stated specifically in my previous thread, but I did pull a head at the JY Wednesday so I'm going to go ahead and try to get this one running. Tallying/gathering up seals, hoses, etc. that I want to replace while I've got it apart. Once running, I'll take a better look at the suspension, brakes, etc., then tackle the cosmetic issues.

Tp cp[mike]'s mike point, I will probably rebuild the head I took off this car to keep as a ready spare since most of my cars are now A6 power instead of A1 (still have Ruby's old A1).

Nov. 6: Got the head back from the shop the other day. Have since cleaned up and installed the valves and rocker assembly. Working on the intake manifold.



Found a set of CL leather seats - if anyone has a good set of coupe seats in tan I'd be willing to trade.



Nov. 13: Reassembled and installed the intake manifold on the head, installed the head on the block. Timing belts and water pump are next on the list.

Nov. 25: Since the last update: installed timing belt, water pump, reassembled everything else (oil cooler twice, cut the o-ring the first time), charged the battery. Couple turns of the key to prime the fuel system and it pretty much fired right up. Immediately had surging idle (only had about a 1/2 gallon of coolant in it). Wound the FITV all the way down and that cured the surge. Shut down. Went to hardware store and got an o-ring for the FITV piston and cover and a gallon of anti-freeze. Installed those, fired it up and ran fine. Set idle, then tried to set distributor timing. Not sure how I screwed up, but cam appears to be off by one tooth. Have to let it cool, then I can correct that.

Nov. 29: It's alive! Corrected the cam timing. Had difficultly getting it started again; once it did start, the alternator wasn't charging the battery. Shut it off, checked connections, tried starting again with the aid of a battery charger. This time when it started there was smoke coming out of the alternator. Removed the alternator and AutoZone confirmed it was toast. Bought and installed a new one. When I tried to start it again, there was a hot electrical smell from the new alternator - shut it off. Fast forward to today. I was checking all the battery cable connections (both ends) and found the starter motor loose (bolts were in place, but not even snug). Tightened it down, cleaned and tightened all connections. Started it up (more easily this time), then set timing. 14+ volts at the battery.

Looks like another electrical gremlin to chase. With the light switch on low beams, all four headlights are on dimly. When switched to high beam, neither light on the right side works, but both left bulbs are bright. Checked the fuses, both were good, but switched them when installing - now the lights work as they should.

Dec. 3: Found a 99 2.3 CL in a JY today with tan leather seats, some cracking, but no splits; ran out of time to get them (also need power to move the driver seat to access the bolts). I did grab the three 16 inch wheels that were on the car. For the price, I will probably go back for them and maybe use some SEM to freshen them up. They will probably look better than having black with the rest of the tan interior.

Dec. 4: Picked up the tan seats today.


I probably won't use the grey ones in my 92 EX, so they are available

[BreckAConner]

Nov. 6: Got the head back from the shop the other day. Have since cleaned up and installed the valves and rocker assembly. Working on the intake manifold.

Can I ask what tool you used to put the valve guides, springs and retainers back in, I've always wondered how to diy?

[Fleetw00d]

I didn't do valve guides, there was very little play of the valves in the guides. New seals were installed by the shop that I had check and clean the head. I bought a valve spring compressor to install the valves, springs, and retainers.