Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[toycar]

Do you run a capacitor on your stereo? Disconnect the amp(s) power supply and see if you still have the issue

Are you wired in correct ohms for your speakers/among setup? Could have an impact too.

Not sure what you've got going on in detail for amps, but you may want to look into this

[Raf99]

Do you run a capacitor on your stereo? Disconnect the amp(s) power supply and see if you still have the issue

Are you wired in correct ohms for your speakers/among setup? Could have an impact too.

Not sure what you've got going on in detail for amps, but you may want to look into this

So that fix i did resolved the issue from what I can see/tested. But I still plan on running a 2AWG for the negative battery terminal from the trans to the block.

[sonikaccord]

180 amp fuse is blowing?

At a 14.4v charging voltage and 180 amp draw, that's over 2500w of power.

Let's say your battery is old and dying...at that same 2500w at 10v, you are going to be drawing 250 amps, which I think is enough to trip your breaker. Also the alternator can put out more current at a lower voltage as well.

If you have a basic multimeter, turn each item on and watch how severe the voltage drop is with each item. I say start with the blower motor first. You can put your black probe on different grounds of the car too. If the readings have a drastic change, then your grounds aren't "equal."

[cp[mike]]

you may be experiencing voltage drop over the length of the cable. I know the chart says 2 or 4 should be fine but in my experience with the trunk-mounted battery, not all cable is made the same, and I needed to use quality 0 gauge wire to be able to transport enough juice to the starter. I believed 180amp "should be fine" but kept having problems with my starter, and discovered it sucked 200+ (seemingly) during initial spinup with the solenoid extended, especially on a higher compression motor.

I HIGHLY recommend Kolossus Flex cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050WZX0U

[Raf99]

180 amp fuse is blowing?

At a 14.4v charging voltage and 180 amp draw, that's over 2500w of power.

Let's say your battery is old and dying...at that same 2500w at 10v, you are going to be drawing 250 amps, which I think is enough to trip your breaker. Also the alternator can put out more current at a lower voltage as well.

If you have a basic multimeter, turn each item on and watch how severe the voltage drop is with each item. I say start with the blower motor first. You can put your black probe on different grounds of the car too. If the readings have a drastic change, then your grounds aren't "equal."

"....... then your grounds aren't equal". I think this sums the issue up. Yep I hear ya. And let's assume the amps are draining the battery fairly quick and the ALT is barely keeping up, I think the blower motor puts it over the top. I installed the volt meter in the dash and I can see the voltage drop as I turn things on. If I remember correctly the voltage drops to 13.1V when I turn it on (with other things on). But I think you want the voltage drop off the ALT wire?

you may be experiencing voltage drop over the length of the cable. I know the chart says 2 or 4 should be fine but in my experience with the trunk-mounted battery, not all cable is made the same, and I needed to use quality 0 gauge wire to be able to transport enough juice to the starter. I believed 180amp "should be fine" but kept having problems with my starter, and discovered it sucked 200+ (seemingly) during initial spinup with the solenoid extended, especially on a higher compression motor.

I HIGHLY recommend Kolossus Flex cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050WZX0U

Thanks man! Excalibur and I were talking about ya yesterday
And I hear ya, hence a battery will deliver 500+ CCA (cold cranking amps) to a starter (dead of winter, cold oil, etc.) but I'll never see that. My lights don't dim when the bass hits. I never have slow starts, my voltage always shows normal.

I will get this cable for the ground, but I'll use 2AWG. I'll run it from the trans ground to the battery. Start with one little change first. But question is, should I keep the ground that currently goes from the battery to the body (in the trunk)?



I think the other key factor here is that circuit breaker I was using. Cheap ebay boat type one. And in the old setup I had the fuse box and battery connected on the bolt of that breaker. Not the best spot for them to fight over power delivery. Not sure how this would blow the ALT breaker as I would assume the opposite would happen (lack of power).
But after changing things to the new diagram and testing, I cannot get the breaker to blow.

[Raf99]

......... If it were me, I'd run two grounds off the battery: one to chassis and one all the way to the block, then two from the block to the chassis..........

Ya. I'm going to do this. It will take the path of least resistance either way.

My question is. Does the "loop" of electricity from the major components that ground to the block (starter/alt/plugs) which grounds to the battery, HELP in the charging or holding of charge of the battery itself?

[CyborgGT]

I'm not sure if I get the question, or if you're over thinking things and it's making you brain-fart the basics (god, that reads like such an asshole remark, but I really don't mean it that way!), but the alternator topping off the battery, as with every other electrical component on the car, relies on proper grounding to carry the correct voltage through the entire circuit. As Mike was saying, the further away from the action that you place the battery, the less effective the same gauge wire is going to be, so when grounding the block from as far away as the trunk, you'll want to make sure enough juice is being carried. It makes the most sense to me to take the factory arrangement and simply extend, and enlarge where necessary. That in mind, a chassis ground alone doesn't seem like enough; Honda certainly didn't think so.

[sonikaccord]

Yes it helps in charging by reducing resistive losses. The better the "loop" (good loop = lots of area for electron pixies to dance...thick wires and good chassis ground points), the more efficient the entire circuit is. You lose less of your electricity to heat.

[Raf99]

Right. The loop or the circuit is all power getting back to the battery negative ground. Not the body of the car and disappearing into null while trying to get back to the battery. And one could think of it in the opposite way too;

The charging cycle is under less stress when the power infrastructure (components using power) have a proper ground. Including the main power distributor, the block.

I'll admit, this is a brain scratcher. While I've read about the disadvantages of not having this ground cable, I have none of them. So I ordered the cable today and it will be interesting to note the differences once installed.


OH, Excalibur did a 3rd to 4th gear pull vid when visiting. A nice smooth pull, started at around 100kph/60mph. Thought I'd share. Cheers


https://youtu.be/Wsa2AieqdKk

[Grumpys93]

When did Excalibur go boost? He needs to update his MRT

[Raf99]

When did Excalibur go boost? He needs to update his MRT

haha... nope. Excalibur go to meet Sally! That was him recording. Hopefully he'll update something soon

[Raf99]

Well....... guess I can't go all winter without updates.

I bought this! And it took me more than 8 years to find one. Ya, I'm in Canada. A perfect condition black dash

[NH-503P-3]

A little “wipe new” and it will literally look brand new and stay that way. Perfect dashes are getting hard to find. Nice score.

[Grumpys93]

Seeing yours and how rare it is to find a black dash I may have to go pull the one in the junkyard here. They want $100 for it though.

[Raf99]

And........ here's some fun photos Can't say I ever want to do that again.





No need to drill the VIN, it's just a rivet type thing in the foam






While we're at it, let's replace this part which was broken/stripped






Now under the light we can see the grey door panels. Time to fix these now.


Fini