Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    This is good practice for the crank pulley bolt lol. Did you get it "red" hot? If youre using propane give up, youll be there forever and risk damaging the bearing from heating everything else up, MAPP is a bit better. when i run into these problems
    I get it hot (not red), then spray it with penetrating fluid. repeat a couple times.
    make my own penetrating fluid with some ATF and some sort of solvent, it creeps well.
    heat it up and melt paraffin wax on it (the threads) it creeps well too.
    since that nut is obviously going to have to be replaced, an air hammer on one of the hex's hammering to the left and down..also what might help is hitting the axle nut socket socket dead on, try to break it, hit again repeat..

    what worked the last time i had a really stubborn nut was heating it with mapp for a good 5 mins, having the air pressure maxed out and the tank full and short 3 round bursts, also having the gun oiled..after it broke i let it air cool naturally, the threads on the axle wire brushed, they were bad. (oh i also use a 3/4" hose, the regular hoses choke HD air tools it seems)

    the crank pulley bolt that gave me hell, i did the jack stand, extensions, the 3 foot breaker bar and a 5 foot pipe,got everything lined up and seated well with a little tension then walked it back, turned over and pulled while sitting down, that break bar looked like an arrow bow, and finally it SNAPPED like a gun shot (i thought something broke besides the bolt) it was a joyous occasion lol.


    when you reassemble make sure you take a booger sized dab of grease or antiseize and put a film on the axle threads, youll appreciate it next time..

    if things were really bad, id even give using the engine power to break it a try....

    or goto a tire place that does semi tires, and have them use their 1" extended anvil gun to break it free,tighten it back down and finish up at home. they should have a 36mm socket too.

    Comment


      You are thinking too little. Trust me on this propane is not enough, you need acetyloline. Neighbor had a big ass torch that will melt the nut if not careful, it cut through a control arm like butter. That is how I did it (not cutting the control arm) and I could remove with a regular socket wrench.

      Last edited by XCRN; 12-06-2014, 01:46 AM.
      Be unique, like every other person.

      CB7 Sold________________________E34 Sold________________________E39 Current

      Comment


        Ya, all i have is propane and I know its not enough.

        Went and rented this........




        434ft-lbs tq........ and 60min later. Nothing. (stopped to let the tool cool down).

        So I don't have the proper heat, so I'll have to take it out and take it to a shop

        Comment


          Man we feel your pain. Most of us have had to deal with that one nightmare axle nut. Obviously you're going to need some major torque and heat that hopefully taking it to some shop near you can provide.


          Comment


            yep we all have had this pain. For my axle nut that was bending breaker bars I went the 700ftlb harbor freight duel hammer impact gun, penatrol and heat , repeat until free
            CB7TUNER.com
            Educating each other one car at a time.

            Comment


              This is the first winter that I could work on the car in a garage so time to get er' done

              Upon inspection i have the following items to fix
              - Can't get either axle nut off on both sides
              - Drivers side had a torn boot on the lower ball joint and tie rod
              - Passenger side had a torn boot on the tie rod
              - Brakes need re-greasing
              - Upper inner fenders need pounding on
              - Passenger transmission axle seal has a small leak I think

              Soooooooooo, we all know what needs to happen. Rip that stuff out !



              Realizing my air tools suck when they can't even get these brake bracket bolts off...., and yes I over extended the axle when I took it out which now I need to peel back the boot and fix


              Tore open the boot to the new SPC camber kit, will have to get a new one. And also going to install new poly bushings for the uppers here.





              So in the end I'm going to replace the whole front LCAs on both sides. New bushings for the tie rods, lower ball joints, upper inner bushings, paint things up nicely and make sure all is well. The brake pins were dry as heck too. I sure would like to upgrade brake system while I'm here but that's a whole other bunch of $$$.

              Comment


                Probably a good time for ROH and re-man axles.
                Be unique, like every other person.

                CB7 Sold________________________E34 Sold________________________E39 Current

                Comment


                  Glad you gotem out bro. Thanks for the nomination, i truly appreciate it.
                  Procrastination is a THIEF of time!!

                  MY MRT

                  http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203992

                  My First CB7

                  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/705233/1990-honda-accord/


                  Comment


                    Originally posted by XCRN View Post
                    Probably a good time for ROH and re-man axles.
                    hmm not a bad idea but I don't have to change rotors ever with the EBC drilled/slotted. I'd love to go to 5 lug or bigger rotors.

                    Originally posted by dahubby View Post
                    Glad you gotem out bro. Thanks for the nomination, i truly appreciate it.
                    Np man. Sorry you didn't win.
                    Last edited by Raf99; 12-07-2014, 07:51 AM.

                    Comment


                      Well on with the show........, what did I get done today.

                      - Took out the passenger side hug, axle, etc.
                      - Put the drivers side axle back together
                      - Started to change the upper control arm bushings (man those things are hard to get out!)


                      and.... of course fixing the small leak I had which i think is the passenger side axle transmission seal. Time for pics.....














                      Not sure how to get the trans axle seal out. I tried a small screw driver but it didn't want to come out too easy. If anyone knows, please let me know. Thanks

                      Comment


                        I like using one of those paint-can openers. Like a screwdriver but has that nice little pry end on it, and cheap (free?)



                        - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                        - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                        - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                        - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                        - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                        - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                        Current cars:
                        - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                        - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by cp[mike] View Post
                          I like using one of those paint-can openers. Like a screwdriver but has that nice little pry end on it, and cheap (free?)

                          Ok, sounds like it will pop right out. I'll try some pliers or something too. thanks

                          Comment


                            not doggin ya or implying anything, but you gotta get those rings from the bushings in anchors out too, if you didnt know. I just cut a slit in them (really easy, soft metal) with a sawzall (hacksaw blade out of the handle would work too) then used a hammer, drift and beat up screwdriver to peel an edge up and ripped them out with some vicegrips. the poly kinda just falls in, get the poly in then push the metal in, everything was lubed; youll see little channels on the inside of the poly to hold the silicon grease.


                            great work so far, sucks about the axle nuts though.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
                              not doggin ya or implying anything, but you gotta get those rings from the bushings in anchors out too, if you didnt know. I just cut a slit in them (really easy, soft metal) with a sawzall (hacksaw blade out of the handle would work too) then used a hammer, drift and beat up screwdriver to peel an edge up and ripped them out with some vicegrips. the poly kinda just falls in, get the poly in then push the metal in, everything was lubed; youll see little channels on the inside of the poly to hold the silicon grease.


                              great work so far, sucks about the axle nuts though.
                              I did know that, but thanks. I'm hoping to clean mine up a lot like you did to yours!

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
                                I did know that, but thanks. I'm hoping to clean mine up a lot like you did to yours!
                                cool are you gonna do electrolysis to them like I did? I only had to "cook" them ~36 hours and they came out clean, besides wire brushing off the black shit (which just looking up isnt magnetite, its from using baking soda as an electrolyte, the article said caustic lye and distilled water wont leave it behind, but it cleans up easy enough) Good luck however you tackle it

                                http://www.quora.com/What-is-the-bla...of-removing-it

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X