Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

Ok.

- Old rad hose back on. Ordered another 90deg. piece for try # 232233 on the new rad hose setup
- Fixed the PS leak / hose that broke. Looks like I clamped it too tight / but also a combination of using a soft rubber hose that wasn't made for PS fluid

Just need to get some coolant and PS fluid from Honda and broom broom driving time!

[Raf99]

Well shit. Fixed the PS leak and got the coolant system bled (using old coolant hose for upper rad), backed it out of the garage just to realize there is a gas leak

What's worse is that it's coming from on top of the gas tank ....... fack...

[NH-503P-3]

Damn bro that totally blows. There’s no putting that situation off either.

[Raf99]

Thanks to Grumpy for this reminder on this item...


Try #203838


Got this from a friend.


He owns a cb7 also, was helping him with his build on the weekend. He has a black 92 coupe DX. This is the H22 he is going to put in it. Hope he can get that car on the road this summer!

[Fleetw00d]

Well shit. Fixed the PS leak and got the coolant system bled (using old coolant hose for upper rad), backed it out of the garage just to realize there is a gas leak

What's worse is that it's coming from on top of the gas tank ....... fack...

I was able to change that line for a friend (one of my former Accords). If I remember correctly, I had to drop the rear cross member (left the control arms connected to the knuckles) and drop the rear of the tank enough to access it. I After I dropped the cross member, I was able to at least partially wire brush and spray a lubricant on the tank strap bolts before I tried to remove them. Depending on how rusty you think they are, the brackets are still available from Honda; $11.81 from Majestic.

[Raf99]

Well............

As I suspected the pump seal is leaking. But why it's leaking is the question here. I've seen this before and it was when I didn't tighten the clamp on the fuel pump hose enough. This resulted in the fuel squirting towards the top of the unit and the tank/pump seal cannot contain it. And it leaks around the old OEM seal.

Any thoughts from you folks on what the problem may be....?

[cp[mike]]

is the EVAP system working? after driving the car for a while, when you opened the gas cap, did you hear pressure hissing out? Perhaps the built up pressure was forcing gas fumes and droplets out through the pump gasket.

[Raf99]

is the EVAP system working? after driving the car for a while, when you opened the gas cap, did you hear pressure hissing out? Perhaps the built up pressure was forcing gas fumes and droplets out through the pump gasket.

Ya, EVAP was working and the leak was an obvious drip. But I already ordered a Walbro 450 pump. And looking at this unit now I'm more puzzled than before, everything looks fine. But why would the fuel be coming out near the seal. The car was sitting in the garage idling when the leak was happening.





The banjo bolts /clamps were tight. I thought the banjo bolts / clamps were loose in which the pump would shoot fuel up at the fuel pump lid leak out the seal.... but doesn't seem to be the case.

[talonted1990]

Totally a shot in the dark because I haven't ever done a fuel pump on a Honda but is there a washer missing from the banjo bolt? Just asking because every banjo I have run across in my experience has a washer on each side and I have chased leaks from only having one installed, just a guess.

[Raf99]

Hey, considering the leak is recent and i had this setup for 2+ years I don't think it's related but thanks for thinking outside the box. Maybe the leak is coming from the banjo connection and not the seal portion.

Looking at the document/pic/schematic there should be a washer on either side of the line. Good find! I'll make sure to get that done. It's hard to see in the pic if there is a washer on either side, i'll check tonight when i get home. I think the only thing i can do there is to make sure all fittings are tight and put that tank back in the car with the new Walbro 450lph pump.

[Raf99]

So tested out the o'rings and connections on the pump holder unit that goes in the tank. Could not find any issues with anything. So just going to get everything installed to the best of my ability. I also noticed there is other pressure related valves in the tank (center opening), but not sure what the function of these are for....

What's everyone's thoughts on the Walbro 450 pump sock not sitting flush in the tank vs. OEM? (One side is up against the wall/on an angle; )



Other pics:

Old unit:









Put some undercoating on the tank again and will put it back in the car this week. I'm still puzzled as to why I had a leak, I'm starting to wonder why fuel would even pressure itself up near the seal.

[Grumpys93]

Does the 450 not require that elbow adapter? I know with the 255lph you have to use that elbow adapter or else it won’t sit right and you’ll run out of fuel at 1/4 because it cant reach the remaining fuel.

[Raf99]

Does the 450 not require that elbow adapter? I know with the 255lph you have to use that elbow adapter or else it won’t sit right and you’ll run out of fuel at 1/4 because it cant reach the remaining fuel.

I hear ya, but it did not come with one. So meh, 3/4 of it is sitting flat and on the bottom of the tank, should do.

Anyways....

- Checked spout for leaks. None
- Walbro 450lph installed.
- Double clamped all hoses
- All looks good.

Started it up. Ran great 39PSI at the rail. But couldn't hold idle really well. Quickly realized the breaker I have in the bay turned off.










Sooo some follow up issues arose.

1. The 180amp breaker I have in the engine bay kept popping, especially with the lights and fan on. This means the ALT cannot charge the battery. This causes idle issues and things to die rather quicly.

2. After a few starts and especially when turning accessories on it is now broken. I ran this setup all last summer but the change here is the addition to the negative cable back to the battery from the trans case. I don't see it as related.

3. This is not the first time I've had issues with this. So far I'm blaming the cheap ebay breaker. Or I've miscalculated the amp draw at this part of the setup. When you put the battery in the trunk the three major items that need power are the alt + fuse box + starter. 1 wire from trunk goes to engine bay where it splits to a splitter. One wire goes to starter and other wire goes to breaker. Off the breaker I run the fuse box & ALT. I have a circuit breaker at that junction point in-case any damage to the wiring should occur up there. I'm thinking I need to change that area to a pure splitter (no breaker). Yes, there's a breaker in the trunk as well (180amp) which never blows. I already bought a cheapy 200amp breaker in anticipation that this would happen...... Currently I'm thinking it's the cheap ebay breakers that are not doing the job. But I'm also a little puzzled why it would blow when the trunk does not. Obviously has to do with the amount of power the fuse box is pulling from the ALT and thinking I need to re-think this. Thinking the fuse should simply run off pure power (no breaker) or simply have a 3 way splitter.

[wtfisafleek]

It would not surprise me if that breaker is subpar and won't handle the current it's rated for.

[Raf99]

It would not surprise me if that breaker is subpar and won't handle the current it's rated for.

Agreed, know where I can get a superior one ?