I wrote this a while ago. It's on the www.eastcoasthonda.org site.
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Hey everyone. I got an idea a while ago and finally got around to doing it. I know I can't be the first person to think of this idea, but I've never heard of, or seen, anyone else do it before so I figured I would.
This will work on any honda that uses the 2-wire jumper to flash the CEL (Check Engine Light). This mainly means OBD1 cars, but some of you OBD2 guys might wanna do this too for basic code retrieval.
Goal: to be able to display DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) quickly and easily.
Assume your check engine light comes on while you're driving. You can basically either ignore it and keep on driving like nothing ever happened, or pull over and stick a paper clip into the jumper connection to find out the code. The second option is the best one. However, I wanted one step better. My CEL jumper connection is pre-wired to a single pole (2-wire) switch. When the switch is off, it does not make a connection to the two wires. When it's on, it "simulates" the act of you sticking a paper clip to jump the 2 wires and therefore will make the CEL flash any current codes. This also will make the ABS light flash current codes if any codes are set in the ABS module. When you've finnished getting the codes, simply flip the switch back to off and the light will stop flashing the codes, however, the CEL will remain on solid until proper repairs are made and the ECU is reset (disconnecting the battery).
You are able to pull codes at any time the key is in the ingition and turned to the on position. That includes while you're driving. That way, you can pull codes while you're driving, as they happen by simply flipping the switch.
Let me stress this:
YOU CANNOT SCREW UP THE WIRING OF THIS!!!!
It doesn't matter which wire connects to which terminal of the switch. It will work any way you wire it. Just make sure one wire goes to one terminal on the switch, make sure the other wire goes to the other terminal on the switch and make sure the two wires are secure and will not to short out to ground down the road (will cause your CEL to come on and stay on all the time). I'd suggest soldering or using good crimp connectors. Run the wire out of sight and make sure it will not interfere with moving parts (such as the A/C and heater control cables).
With switch off, CEL stays on solid if there is a DTC, or does not come on if zero codes are set:
When the switch is turned on, the CEL will flash any current codes. If there are no current codes, the CEL will come on and stay on solid until the switch is cut back off:
In the past, I've personally spent more than 20 minutes looking for a paper clip or wire or ANYTHING I could find to use as a jumper. Not to mention the fact, that I had to pull over to check the codes in the first place. Wiring this switch up and making it functional took less than 10 minutes total and allows the ability to check for codes at any point in literally less than a second.
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Hey everyone. I got an idea a while ago and finally got around to doing it. I know I can't be the first person to think of this idea, but I've never heard of, or seen, anyone else do it before so I figured I would.
This will work on any honda that uses the 2-wire jumper to flash the CEL (Check Engine Light). This mainly means OBD1 cars, but some of you OBD2 guys might wanna do this too for basic code retrieval.
Goal: to be able to display DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) quickly and easily.
Assume your check engine light comes on while you're driving. You can basically either ignore it and keep on driving like nothing ever happened, or pull over and stick a paper clip into the jumper connection to find out the code. The second option is the best one. However, I wanted one step better. My CEL jumper connection is pre-wired to a single pole (2-wire) switch. When the switch is off, it does not make a connection to the two wires. When it's on, it "simulates" the act of you sticking a paper clip to jump the 2 wires and therefore will make the CEL flash any current codes. This also will make the ABS light flash current codes if any codes are set in the ABS module. When you've finnished getting the codes, simply flip the switch back to off and the light will stop flashing the codes, however, the CEL will remain on solid until proper repairs are made and the ECU is reset (disconnecting the battery).
You are able to pull codes at any time the key is in the ingition and turned to the on position. That includes while you're driving. That way, you can pull codes while you're driving, as they happen by simply flipping the switch.
Let me stress this:
YOU CANNOT SCREW UP THE WIRING OF THIS!!!!
It doesn't matter which wire connects to which terminal of the switch. It will work any way you wire it. Just make sure one wire goes to one terminal on the switch, make sure the other wire goes to the other terminal on the switch and make sure the two wires are secure and will not to short out to ground down the road (will cause your CEL to come on and stay on all the time). I'd suggest soldering or using good crimp connectors. Run the wire out of sight and make sure it will not interfere with moving parts (such as the A/C and heater control cables).
With switch off, CEL stays on solid if there is a DTC, or does not come on if zero codes are set:
When the switch is turned on, the CEL will flash any current codes. If there are no current codes, the CEL will come on and stay on solid until the switch is cut back off:
In the past, I've personally spent more than 20 minutes looking for a paper clip or wire or ANYTHING I could find to use as a jumper. Not to mention the fact, that I had to pull over to check the codes in the first place. Wiring this switch up and making it functional took less than 10 minutes total and allows the ability to check for codes at any point in literally less than a second.
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