I started removing my crusie control today. I searched the board but couldnt find any instructions. I even looked in my haynes manual and it didnt have anything on how to remove it. So i guessed that if i un hook everything then it will be fine. this is where i ran into my first problem. how to disconnect the cable that dissapears behind the firewall. so i go to start up the car with everything un hooked except that cable and when i cut the car on the idle was hovering around 2800-3000. So please help my solve this problem.
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problem removing cruise control, and now idle problems!:(
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I don't know if this will help you any
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...400/16-267.pdf
That cable is probably pulling the throttle pedal
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.
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there was a rubber vacuum line running along the side of the bay and connected to the side of the intake manifold... once you remove that, you need to cap off the nipple it was connected to. if its left open, it allows extra air into the engine which is just like holding the throttle open a little bit, hence the high idle...
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^^ or yeah the cable may be pulling on the pedal too... look up underneath and its just hooked into the pedal like a bike brake cable.
- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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well i fixed the vacuum problem by hooking up the tubes again. the actuator is removed tho so i guess i was partially successful. my battery light has been on 4 about a week and when i came back from test driving my car after re hooking the vacuum lines i cut the car of and then i was gonna start it back up to see how high it would rev on initial start up and the battery was dead so now i gotta get that fixed. so do u guys think it is that the alternator is dead or it came be brought back from the dead? also during the test drive when i shifted the battery light turned off then it came back on. so maybe the brushing or wires or just a brand new one?
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Sounds like the alternator, I would get it checked if at all possible.
From my limited experience it will cause the battery light to go on or off based on the engines speed.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.
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