power steering removal line looping

[PakaloloHonda]

Mike, I sent you a PM ...

We did the swap from my sedan to my wagon, and I had him remove my CC,PS, and AC.

I swapped out the face-plate (220km) to the wagon 5 speed cluster. ONLY the face-plate.
It's sorta stuck at like 40km .. but once the car goes faster then 40km .. the speedo works.

Please .. do NOT tell me that I need to hook up any lines to my vss from my PS
which is NOT there anymore .. I believe all 4 lines are gone ..

So howz the speedo functioning after 40km?
And damnit .. I just bought a new cluster because it appears that my odometer and trip meter have stopped working ..

[cp[mike]]

Is removing the belt from the pump an accurate representation of how the steering will be if you go through all the cutting and looping and plugging of lines? Just curious.....I ran my DA a few years ago without power steering and it was not at all bad. Must admit i like having it but cleaning up the engine bay is a bonus I would like to look into.

removing the lines will make it even EASIER to steer. makes you wonder why people freak out about the removal, right?

PakaloloHonda - sounds like you damaged the speedometer. power steering has nothing to do with the VSS/speedometer function. similar symptoms to when people install gauge face overlays - perhaps the needle is getting caught on something where the friction keeps it from falling? if you removed the needle and reinstalled it, its likely broken (its fragile)

[PakaloloHonda]

PakaloloHonda - sounds like you damaged the speedometer. power steering has nothing to do with the VSS/speedometer function. similar symptoms to when people install gauge face overlays - perhaps the needle is getting caught on something where the friction keeps it from falling? if you removed the needle and reinstalled it, its likely broken (its fragile)

Thanks Mike !!!

K then .. I'm back to replacing the face-plate, or .. the entire cluster if I have to.
That's a huge relief Mike .. and I thank you for your prompt and expert reply!

[CyborgGT]

So what are you plugging the rack with, is there a screw fitting for plumbing I can grab from Home Depot or what?

[Noridetoolow]

removing the lines will make it even EASIER to steer. makes you wonder why people freak out about the removal, right?

Awesomeness, thanks Mike, think i might be doing this soon!

[cp[mike]]

So what are you plugging the rack with, is there a screw fitting for plumbing I can grab from Home Depot or what?

Finding compression fitting plugs of these 3 sizes will probably be pretty hard. In the past, I've used random short bolts with silicone sealant on the threads, but they may damage the taper seat inside the fitting and make it so it can't be switched back.

I've seen tips online that suggest reusing the original flare nuts and fill the hole in the back with a glob of JB Weld, that way its a solid plug and you know it'll fit right in.

[tonytoka1979]

I looped the 2 large lines together and the 2 smaller together.. got rid of everything else.. been running it everyday sense, and have had no issues what so ever.. the steering feels easier then when just the belt was removed.. A to C and B to D.. IJS!

[CyborgGT]

Ooh, nice idea, Mike, thanks!

[SPLCB7]

Wait so if i plug those three lines my steering will be better?

[tonytoka1979]

Why get all confusing with trying to plug? just cut the lines close to the rack take a few small peaces of hose and some hose clamps, loop the 2 small lines together, then the 2 larger together and BAM your done!

[jdm_inspired]

As far as the vss goes... I hope I did this right:

[thepowderblue]

Just a thought. If you want to make your car preform the best it can you want nice wide tires to grip the rode and if you dont have power steering I would think it would limit your performance as far as handling,and you cant gain very meany hp my removing it. I had the ps belt off my accord one time and with my wheels it was a bitch to turn.
On some cars you can get away with it if that car has thin tires.

[jdm_inspired]

im almost certain that there will never be positive pressure coming from C, so a rubber cap should be fine. glad to help, this is an often confused subject.

Update:

C does have positive pressure. Just turned the wheel and the cap popped off. I'm gonna try securing the cap with a hose clamp. Let you know how it goes in a few.

[jdm_inspired]

Update:

C does have positive pressure. Just turned the wheel and the cap popped off. I'm gonna try securing the cap with a hose clamp. Let you know how it goes in a few.

And the vacuum cap popped, literally.

[cp[mike]]

Update:

C does have positive pressure. Just turned the wheel and the cap popped off. I'm gonna try securing the cap with a hose clamp. Let you know how it goes in a few.

whoops, i apologize for the incorrect info... maybe the JBwelded oem fitting is the best way to go, or if you can find a bolt that big with a clean flat tip...