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Just Bent my valves!!!!

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    #61
    Originally posted by 1990HybridCB7
    alright, thanks.
    i was kidding about the stealing thing.

    i was doing research for knock sensors because i had swapped a h23 head onto a f22 block. what i foind were two different types.

    so just bring the old one to match up. the one that looked weird were for newer gen civics.
    so g/l
    I <3 G60.

    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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      #62
      Originally posted by wed3k
      i was kidding about the stealing thing.

      i was doing research for knock sensors because i had swapped a h23 head onto a f22 block. what i foind were two different types.

      so just bring the old one to match up. the one that looked weird were for newer gen civics.
      so g/l
      , yea I didn't take the stealing part literally. I just hope I have luck finding one, last time I went to the junkyard, there weren't too many Preludes.

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        #63
        Pull the engine, and build it. Bad things always happen so we can spend more money, which leads to going faster. Woot.

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          #64
          Originally posted by Dv8
          Pull the engine, and build it. Bad things always happen so we can spend more money, which leads to going faster. Woot.
          Yea, I wish. my cousin has been peer pressuring me to completely rebuuild the head with better parts. already spent more than I anticipated and can't really afford to much when ur in school and paying for it out of your own pocket

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            #65
            Buy a new head. Keep the one with bent valves and build it. Once its built you already know how to replace the head so do it again. And now its built. Still gives lets you get to school and work and everything plus once money is saved up, and the other head is built youll be back out even faster with all motor or turbo.



            My New Ride
            http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=82630

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              #66
              just buy a new/rebuilt head so that you can have a transportation. most of the time shops will want a core. but with bent valves, why risk rebuilding it, it may have cracked valve guides or bad. just my thought though.
              The beginning of a new era............................
              165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
              184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

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                #67
                ^^^^^
                yea, I was thinking of doing that but I just waanted to change the damaged parts and get the car back on the road ASAP.

                Update, Well I finallly got everything buttoned up and filled her with fluids and started her up.

                The car starts and we can set the idel to where it should be but once you even give it a rev is when she starts to act up and doesn't wanna settle down.

                The car is misfiring pretty bad and we can't seem to get the timing down to where it should be. Also, when I rev it the CEL is going crazy while the needle is fluctuating all over the place.

                I think it may have somethign to do with the knowck sensor not being in place. Since I had no success finding one in the junkyard, we fired it up w/o one. I know the job of the knock sensor and everything but would the computer try and retard the timing itself when there is no knock sensor present?

                thanks for any help in advance.

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                  #68
                  Originally posted by 1990HybridCB7
                  ^^^^^
                  yea, I was thinking of doing that but I just waanted to change the damaged parts and get the car back on the road ASAP.

                  Update, Well I finallly got everything buttoned up and filled her with fluids and started her up.

                  The car starts and we can set the idel to where it should be but once you even give it a rev is when she starts to act up and doesn't wanna settle down.

                  The car is misfiring pretty bad and we can't seem to get the timing down to where it should be. Also, when I rev it the CEL is going crazy while the needle is fluctuating all over the place.

                  I think it may have somethign to do with the knowck sensor not being in place. Since I had no success finding one in the junkyard, we fired it up w/o one. I know the job of the knock sensor and everything but would the computer try and retard the timing itself when there is no knock sensor present?

                  thanks for any help in advance.
                  Most likely a grounding issue. Check the Tstat housing ground.
                  The OFFICIAL how to add me to your ignore list thread!

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                    #69
                    alright, I'll check that out today. So how about the knock sensor? Could that have anythign to do with the car acting up and causing the CEL to flicker on and off?

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                      #70
                      Originally posted by 1990HybridCB7
                      alright, I'll check that out today. So how about the knock sensor? Could that have anythign to do with the car acting up and causing the CEL to flicker on and off?
                      I wouldn't think so, but it is possible.

                      Most likely, you have a loose or bad ground somewhere.

                      If it was just the knock sensor, it should come on and stay on, but it depends.
                      The OFFICIAL how to add me to your ignore list thread!

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                        #71
                        fist and foremost, owequitit, you are the MAN

                        You hit it right on the head with the T-stat housing ground. I just went out to take a look and low and behold, I had left the ground sem-lose ( I had loosened it for easier access and was gonna go back to tighten it but completely forgot) tightne her up and cranked her up and she started up w/o any hiccups and could actually rev up w/o and problems.

                        This website is the shit.

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                          #72
                          Originally posted by 1990HybridCB7
                          fist and foremost, owequitit, you are the MAN

                          You hit it right on the head with the T-stat housing ground. I just went out to take a look and low and behold, I had left the ground sem-lose ( I had loosened it for easier access and was gonna go back to tighten it but completely forgot) tightne her up and cranked her up and she started up w/o any hiccups and could actually rev up w/o and problems.

                          This website is the shit.
                          LOL!

                          Most common cause of electrical gremlins on a Honda. Unfortunately, I learned that one the hard way.
                          The OFFICIAL how to add me to your ignore list thread!

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                            #73
                            Yea, sorry about the ego boost but im just feeling so excited about this.

                            I mean the car was just acting up really bad, had no idea it was all cause of a ground? tomorrow i'll just double check the timing and make sure everything is up to par.

                            Heres another question, Now since the car is purring like a kitten I hear other things. I am running w/o the balancer belt and was wondering if there are suppose to be any noises coming from the crank area during idle?

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                              #74
                              Update: The car has been running pretty smoothly ever since I got the T-stat housing ground situated.

                              Still have a couple of bugs that I've been trying to figure out w/o much success.

                              I know this is a big issue and might be the cause of others so... right now I have a CEL for code #23. I know this is the KS. Right now im just running with the broken KS ( let the intake sit ontop of it while the head was out ) that I have while I await another KS I ordered.

                              there are a couple of other things that need to get sorted out but will wait till I clear this CEL code to see if it helps anything else.

                              Another problems im having is surging during warm-up, the car likes to surge b/t 1500-2000. I double checked my cooling system to make sure there was no air and enough coolant to keep the IACV happy. I was actually pretty low on coolant but did very little to help the surging.

                              Right now i'm thinking it's the FITV because during warm-up, I have air being sucked into that little hole on the TB for the FITV, but once the engine is warmed up, that little hole for the is still sucking in air when it should close up and stop sucking in air.

                              Am I heading in the right direction or is there something else I could be overlooking?
                              Last edited by 1990HybridCB7; 04-28-2007, 04:21 PM.

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                                #75
                                under the cap of the FITV, theres a white plastic ring... using a flathead screwdriver on either side, tighten it down a few turns.... see if that helps.


                                - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                                - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                                - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                                - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                                - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                                - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                                - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                                - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                                Current cars:
                                - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                                - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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