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    #46
    Originally posted by Stright Success
    In the winter, I use Quaker State 10W-30. In the summer, I use Mobil 5W-30.
    You run a thicker cold oil in the winter?
    2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
    Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
    1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp

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      #47
      Originally posted by cp[mike]
      added OEM honda as an option at the bottom.
      shit i had already voted for other
      .............................-----------------93 Ex Coupe[/COLOR]-----------------


      .



      My CD7

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        #48
        Originally posted by 93cb7ExCoupe
        shit i had already voted for other
        not anymore


        - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
        - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
        - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
        - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
        - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
        - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
        Current cars:
        - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
        - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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          #49
          castrol syntec 10w-30 every 2500 miles!

          "Up Down, Slide To Slide"

          Members ride thread- ]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=63019]

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            #50
            Originally posted by MadSpleen85
            What brand of filter (that is available at your local automotive shop) would you reccomend? I am just curious. I want to make sure I am running the right oil weight, brand, filter, etc that I can without spending an arm and a leg every 5,000 miles. LMK.

            EDIT: should I run a different weight between the winter and summer? Things like that. LMK. Later
            ANYBODY? Later

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              #51
              Just switched to Royal Purple 10w 30 last oil change and that's what I'll be using for my next one too.
              R.I.P. CB7; hello spec-v!


              Member's Ride
              FS thread: full part-out

              Help me with my spec-V fund, buy my stuff!!!
              Degree of rice and performability are inversely related.

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                #52
                Originally posted by koffin
                Fram oil filters are terrible. You might be better off with a "no-name" filter.
                Purolator and Wix are quality, reasonably priced(~$5) filters.
                Frams are very bad. Don't believe me? Ask google.
                i heard from my friend that worked for honda that oem honda oil filters are made by fram (honeywell) for honda, minus the s2k oil filter which is made in japan (toyo roki).
                <

                (129)Transactions and counting

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                  #53
                  Originally posted by MadSpleen85
                  ANYBODY? Later
                  wix

                  CrzyTuning now offering port services

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                    #54
                    Just found this also... Source

                    Honda Prelude Oil Filter Recommendations
                    Currently, it appears that there are four options for a decent oil filter for the Prelude with the OEM spec's:


                    1. The Mobil 1 oil filter is well constructed and a decent filter. Unfortunately, I'm not been able to get my hands on a stock spec'ed Mobil 1 filter (but have taken apart a few oversized ones). However, I have been able to discern that it's made on the same line as the K&N filter, but will a media that is slightly better at filtration. Based on testing by others I still think this is a really good filter.

                    2. The AMSOIL SDF-20 filter is well constructed and lab tests show that it's an excellent filter. At 6350 miles this filter was able to generate the above lab test report and show that 10w40 oil in an H22A4 causes no problems. On the other hand, it's big brother the SDF-44 did not filter oil well at 13,000 miles. Proving that an oversized filter is not always a good thing when it comes to filtration.

                    3. The K&N HP-1004 is a great filter. The internal construction is the same as the Mobil 1 filter, but it does not filter the down to as small a particle size. This filter is meant to maintain higher flow while still actively filtering, as opposed to by-passing. Lab tests using Mobil 1 at 7500 miles indicates that this filter works as well as the AMSOIL SDF-20.

                    4. The FRAM x2 (and only the FRAM x2 Series) is probably the most heavily constructed filter I've seen so far. Though all of the Japanese made filters were of exceptional quality, the Fram x2 was as good in every way. Of note with the construction were the following features: metal screen backing the media, heavy metal end caps (all other Fram filters have cardboard), and 2 layer filter medium. Lab testing indicates this filter is fine at 5000 miles use with Mobil 1. As with all of the Fram filters and OEM Honda oil filters the x2 uses the standard spring loaded plastic by-pass valve that many people do not like. However, lab tests do not indicate that the valve jams or fails to work. It's possible that a hard enough impact at a sharp angle while the filter was by-passing might cause it to jam open, but I suspect the fluid within the filter would prevent this.[/end]

                    The FRAM x2 series is what I have been using. Later

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                      #55
                      the expensive ass fram filters are the good ones. but im sure that if you get your hands on a wix, the difference wont be much, except in price.

                      cheap fram=gaynes for filtration and flow.

                      CrzyTuning now offering port services

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                        #56
                        Its not on the list but I use Redline Synthetic Race Oil. 30weight
                        I also have redline synthetic in the trans.
                        As for the filter I go with K&N.
                        Only the best for my baby!!!!

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                          #57
                          I am running a Wix for my h22a. Its good. I want to run an Amsoil though since I have been reading pretty good results from them. And as for what weight your supposed to run read your owners manual thats the best way to see what weight you need. The manufacturer knows best.

                          The New-ish Ride
                          My old Ride
                          Hear my Vtak!!!
                          MK3 Member #3
                          I piss off people for fun.
                          IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1

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                            #58
                            Originally posted by MadSpleen85

                            EDIT: should I run a different weight between the winter and summer? Things like that. LMK. Later

                            Not necessary. Run a good 5w30 and you'll be fine.
                            If you do want to do the winter summer thing, run heavier in the summer and lighter in the winter.
                            WTB - IACV for H22a4.

                            FS: 1993 CB9 w/H22a4 and much, much more.

                            PM or email with inquiries.
                            Vouch Thread

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                              #59
                              Originally posted by NAiL05
                              I am running a Wix for my h22a. Its good. I want to run an Amsoil though since I have been reading pretty good results from them. And as for what weight your supposed to run read your owners manual thats the best way to see what weight you need. The manufacturer knows best.

                              If you're interested, I can get you Amsoil stuff.

                              I run the EaOil filter in my vehicles. Its rated for 25k miles. Quality filter.
                              WTB - IACV for H22a4.

                              FS: 1993 CB9 w/H22a4 and much, much more.

                              PM or email with inquiries.
                              Vouch Thread

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                                #60
                                Okay, after reading up on the various filter comparisons, I'll summarize why the Fram filters (especially the Extra Guard ones in the bright orange can) are bad, to save everyone the time:

                                1. End caps of the filter element are cardboard that is glued into place, not metal like most other companies use.

                                2. The anti-drainback valve (which is made of much thinner rubber than similar filters, one test mentions a thickness of 0.0054" for the PH4967) forms a seal by pushing a rough piece of metal against the cardboard end cap, which frequently leaks, to no surprise.

                                3. The filter element itself typically has two-thirds the surface area of competing filters (right under 200 square inches, versus over 300 for pretty much any non-Fram filter that was tested, for a 5.0L Ford application).

                                4. Also, the bypass valve is cheap plastic, as opposed to metal.

                                Please notice I'm not some anti-Fram fanatic or anything. In fact, I have only purchased Fram filters for my cars, simply because that is what the local Wal Mart and Auto Zone carried. Unfortunately, it seems like I'll have to do some searching around to find someone who carries better filters. For a similar price, the Purolator, Motorcraft (a repackaged Purolator), NAPA, Castrol, or Wix filters seem much better constructed. If you want to spend more, the Mobil1 and Amsoil filters are supposed to be really well built, and the K&N should be good as well.

                                On a related note, Pennzoil and (at least some?) new Quaker State filters simply repackaged Fram filters.

                                On another note, the Fram X2 filters are apparently very good.
                                Last edited by cjv998; 02-01-2007, 12:23 PM.

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