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**92CordDX** · 08-22-2006, 11:30 AM

put pluig #3 in either spot 1,2 or 4 and see if the plug works, elimminating the malfunctioned plug.

then go from there.

**Torqstr** · 08-22-2006, 11:32 AM

put one of the old plugs into #3 hole, still did the same thing. Then I eliminated the wire by trying to swap the wires around, no matter what it was still cylinder #3 that wasn't being affected when I pulled it's plug wire.

**NAiL05** · 08-22-2006, 11:40 AM

Check the contacts in the distributor cap/rotor?

**Torqstr** · 08-22-2006, 11:45 AM

ignition stuff is brand new, and like I said Im getting arcs both at the cap and at the end of the plugwire, but for some reason the cylinder is not firing off.

**civic_90_08** · 08-22-2006, 12:06 PM

valves, piston, piston arm?....

**Torqstr** · 08-22-2006, 12:28 PM

ok Ive tried everything. I have no idea why it could possibly be doing this. #3 cylinder is not working, it seems to be that simple, but why? The plug wire is getting fire, the plug is getting fire, but yet its not working.

I know that changing the air boost valve & EGR valve would affect all cylinders equally, not just single one out if there was something wrong with either of them.

I also know, like I said, that all of the wires are getting fire and so are the plugs, so that damned near eliminates the ignition system.

Could the ECU be causing this? Maybe I have a bad ECU. I just dont know what else to try.

P.S. Im pretty certain I got the plugwire order right when I put them back on the cap, but just to make sure does anyone have a picture/diagram of how they're supposed to be wired? Also is there any chance at all that my having put the wires on wrong at first causing this problem now?

**quickangel93** · 08-22-2006, 12:42 PM

hey do a compression test on 3 and 4. if 3 falls 20psi or more less, you have a leak. im pretty much sure you intake valve or exhaust valve is not sitting all the way. did you change your timing belt lately??? could also be a problem when you cam pulley is out of place. dont be afraid to check those areas. im pretty sure you have a leak.

**Torqstr** · 08-22-2006, 01:01 PM

hmm, just found something out very interesting. Not sure if this is the whole problem, but it could be helping to account for it. My rotor seems to be discharging arcs directly into the positive and negative wires (where the internal coil used to be) when it's trying to fire off cylinder 3 & 4. I'm no ignition expert but I think that it's a highly possible cause for this problem.......

but that would still not explain why it was missing a lot before I even changed out the ignition components.

**NAiL05** · 08-22-2006, 01:04 PM

Originally posted by Torqstr

hmm, just found something out very interesting. Not sure if this is the whole problem, but it could be helping to account for it. My rotor seems to be discharging arcs directly into the positive and negative wires (where the internal coil used to be) when it's trying to fire off cylinder 3 & 4. I'm no ignition expert but I think that it's a highly possible cause for this problem.......

but that would still not explain why it was missing a lot before I even changed out the ignition components.

That could be a cause. Id check that out. You know electricity it likes to take the easiest path out.

**Torqstr** · 08-22-2006, 01:27 PM

yeah because I noticed now that when I pull my #4 wire (or any other wire for that matter) that the car shudders badly, but when I pull the #3 wire AND another wire at the same time the car nearly dies, so the #3 cylinder is definately getting some spark and actually combusting, but it seems that it might be getting weak spark or something.

I took it for a spin and noticed that it doesn't seem to quite have the power it did before (could be in my head though), and it does still idle roughly at low idle and stutters a little on takeoff, but I think that this could be due to the fact that my car is throwing a code 12 (EGR) and EGR can mess up your idle pretty bad.

**cp[mike]** · 08-22-2006, 01:39 PM

shield/insulate/move the wires further from the rotor... that plug looks way too clean, you sure youre getting fuel? id probably try trading injectors with one of the other cylinders, just to help narrow it down a bit... a compression test wouldnt hurt either... you can get gauges at autozone for a good price.

**h22sparkle** · 08-22-2006, 01:57 PM

you can also try a noid light that shit that sees and gets electricity throught that wire to see if your gettin a signal through the injector aswell

**Torqstr** · 08-22-2006, 02:51 PM

well I did check the compression on the one cylinder earlier. I was getting about 100psi just from cranking up and idling, and about 180psi maximum when nearly hitting redline. I have no idea if that's good or not, but it doesn't seem to be too bad to me.

I'm really thinking that it must be the damned EGR valve, because when I go in the back by the exhaust and smell it, it stinks horribly of unburt gasoline and I'm getting just a tiny bit of smoke, it's kinda whiteish or greyish in color, but it doesn't last in the atmosphere like smoke, it's more like mist, so I kinda think it's unburnt fuel.

Are these engines really that sensitive to EGR malfunctions that it can mess up your entire fuel ratio that bad and make it run super rich? Because one of the things I did the other day when the car started acting funny is change out my old EGR (which was throwing a code) for a junkyard EGR (that's now also throwing a code).

**quickangel93** · 08-22-2006, 07:08 PM

your supposed to disconnet ignition so that the car dosent start. 100 to low. looks like you might have a leak and air/fuel is getting away from the block before combustion. check oil for smells like gas.

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