Im installing my new (JDM)aftermarket tie rods,do I tighten the bolt all the way and if I do that the cotter pin whont go thrue the bolt as well?Can you help me please?
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you are going to want to twist them on to about where they were before you took the old ones off.
The castle nut should be tightened down all the way, then put the cotter pin through.
Then go get an alignment since new tie rods will throw off the toe.
edit:
and the "new cb7" pic in your sig is actually a 5th gen
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Originally posted by aeroyou are going to want to twist them on to about where they were before you took the old ones off.
The castle nut should be tightened down all the way, then put the cotter pin through.
Then go get an alignment since new tie rods will throw off the toe.
edit:
and the "new cb7" pic in your sig is actually a 5th gen
and LOL to the fact its a 5th gen.Audi A4 2.8 Quattro Sport
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Originally posted by SuperTuner12010There was no 4th gen so I thought that the 5th gen would be close enough,Either way the alingment will be like 4 times better than it was before.Both wheels use to be butterflying really really bad.
New tie rods will do nothing without being properly aligned.
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how the hell is a tie rod JDM?
- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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Originally posted by SuperTuner12010There was no 4th gen so I thought that the 5th gen would be close enough,Either way the alingment will be like 4 times better than it was before.Both wheels use to be butterflying really really bad.
a cool way to stay near spec is actually counting the turns to take it off. then after i fine tune it by placing the car down and seeing if its straight, if not i adjust a bit more...it helps especially trying to drive the the alignment shop. i do my own alignments at school so its no biggie for me, hehe.What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.
You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!
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Originally posted by accordztechbutterfly? are you talking about camber or are you talking about toe in-toe out?
a cool way to stay near spec is actually counting the turns to take it off. then after i fine tune it by placing the car down and seeing if its straight, if not i adjust a bit more...it helps especially trying to drive the the alignment shop. i do my own alignments at school so its no biggie for me, hehe.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=alignment
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Originally posted by SuperTuner12010A JDM Tie Rod is made in Japan, it doesn't mater what it is,if its made in Japan its JDM(Japenese Damestic Market) its on the market in Japan.Dam
If it isn't exclusive to the Japanese market, it's just another part.
My whole car was made in Japan!2003 Maxima SE Titanium Edition
Polished Titanium ext, heated black leather int, heated leather steering wheel, HIDs, 255bhp, 6 speed, 15% tint.
1993 Suzuki GSX1100F 136bhp
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Originally posted by SuperTuner12010A JDM Tie Rod is made in Japan, it doesn't mater what it is,if its made in Japan its JDM(Japenese Damestic Market) its on the market in Japan.Dam
and no, your tie rods are not "JDM"
Owner of https://theclunkerjunker.com
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