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    $2000 repair need help.

    First I want to state that i searched and found nothing pertaining to my problem. Second Im not going to spend 2k on repairs for a car worth roughly that much stock, only way ill spend 2k on my car is for upgardes (turbo, wheels, suspension, audio, body work).

    Onto the juicy stuff

    Today i just went to my local honda dealership to get my oil, trans fluid, coolant, and fuel filter replaced. I already knew i had problems on my car before hand (rear motor mount needs replacing, and a mysterious oil leak, and my boots sounded worn). Well i talked to the technician to look int omy car to see waht problems their are. After waiting he gave me a list of what needs to be fixed. Here is the list:

    parts and labor
    Outer CV Boot $345 (cause of my axles squecking in the morning)

    Rear Main Seal $695 (Mysterious oil leak isnt mysterious any more)

    Front Rotors and Pads $465(F*** you NTB your shit is crappy)

    Power Steering Output Hose $515(Dont let other people tell u waht to put in your car, use Honda stuff if you didnt already know that, i used some other brand and it f***ed it up

    Sway Bar bushings $120 (Time for a performance sway bar WOOT)

    now i asked the guy later the price of the parts and the cv boots are 37 each and the rear main seal is only 20. I plan to do this myself, because its not difficult, just tme consuming, just lik anything else that deals with cars.What i want from anyone here that reads this, is a DIY on how to replace install those. I will get haynes manual, i dont really like them cause i have a 90 integra one and it gave me a run around once, but they are good, bbut i would like a nicely detailed how to on here, in plain english to help me out. I used the search button and advanced search in the technical posts and the DIY and all i got for cv boot was about a manual shifter boot and for the main seal i got something irrelevant to waht i need.

    ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED, I LOVE MY CB I WANT IT TO HISS WITH ITS BOV ONCE THIS IS ALL FIXED.
    Thank you and much luv
    Jai Beezy

    P.S.Anyone in San Antonio, with the know how could help me also since u will be closer. I can use the air force base shop to work on it so, a garage isnt necessary unless its free
    Last edited by JaiBeezy DnB; 02-13-2006, 09:04 PM.
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    #2
    On the good note, my car shifts alot smoother, i put 5w30 mobil synth. gas mileage is going back to the upper 20's and low 30's and my car doesnt feel like its getting kicked in the balls everytime it shifts. Thnx for any feedback and help lates
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      #3
      I can tell you this much I've had a rear main seal leak for the past two and a half years yes it is an annoyance finding oil under my car every morning but if you just add a little bit of oil as needed you will be fine, my cv boot is also ripped I've been driving on it for about a year and a half haven't had a problem yet. But yea if your going to fix it by all means do so I've just kept out on doing it myself because the h22 will be here shortly.
      My H22A SWAP JOURNAL

      Members Ride

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        #4
        Thats my other problem, m homie is getting me an h23, but im helping fix his REALLY FUCEKED up 2nd gen integra, by reall fed up i mean, NEW engine, new body, new electrical, new paint... new new new. lol. only thing good on it is its 18 inch rims, and they look huge on it. Anyways, i jsut want to fix this problem because if i dont get h23 with mannie conversion, then i ll get f22 mannie and turbo. Im leaning more toward s the f22 mannie cause since its the engine alreay in the car, less bugs to kink out. Thnx bro anymore help will be appreciated
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          #5
          That is probably the most rediculous set of prices I have ever seen in my life. Screw fixing all that shit just buy an H22 and install it for that price.

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            #6
            god damn i'm glad i did an engine swap, i learned so much i can do all that shit for 1/8 of the price you stated and probably spend some more on suspension...rear main seals are cake.

            ILBB
            People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

            Mk3 Supra Member #2

            Originally posted by DarkShadow707
            The world needs to be reset.

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              #7
              Originally posted by JaiBeezy DnB
              parts and labor
              Outer CV Boot $345 (cause of my axles squecking in the morning)

              Rear Main Seal $695 (Mysterious oil leak isnt mysterious any more)

              Front Rotors and Pads $465(F*** you NTB your shit is crappy)

              Power Steering Output Hose $515(Dont let other people tell u waht to put in your car, use Honda stuff if you didnt already know that, i used some other brand and it f***ed it up

              Sway Bar bushings $120 (Time for a performance sway bar WOOT)
              outer cv boot: $55 for a whole new axle and boots, very easy to replace

              rear main seal: cheap seal, very hard to get to (need to remove entire transmission)

              front rotors and pads: do u really need rotors? or just new pads?

              power steering hose: $85 new, ive seen ppl run the autozone ones for forever with no problem.

              sway bar bushings $24 for both sides, half hour to install.


              so to me it looks like $200 for parts not including brakes.

              as for the rear main, if it isnt a bad leak, just keep adding oil every so often. try that oil leak fixer stuff at autozone, it basically "clogs" up very small leaks. unless you feel comfortable pullign the transmission, this might be something youd want to have done at the shop.

              everything else you could handle. the ps hose is a bitch to get in and out when the motor is in the car, but besides that, its the one fitting at the rack end and two 10mm bolts at the pump, thats it.


              - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
              - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
              - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
              - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
              - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
              - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
              - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
              - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
              Current cars:
              - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
              - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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                #8
                thnx, all i need is that "fork" to install those boots. Im tired of the leak because i wanna run a turbo, and oil is necessary for a turbo. I could put in oil every so often, but thats 6 bucks i could save buying the synth oil. Im still sort of flipped on what i want to do though. I love the f series, and i beat a riced out 98 accord 4 door, so i know its got potential, but the h23 seems more solid since its closed deck and better air flow and all that jazz. In all, im prolly gonna change to H series some day and turbo it, so i guess ill just fix the boots since i can still use after the swap.

                I know those prices are ridiculous. If i had a lift at my house my car would of been fixed the day i got it lol.

                Thnx for the replies but, when doing the boots i take off everything, wheel (duh) and brakes and taht should expse everhting, then i jsut replcae what i replace, torque to specs and reinstall everythhing i took off right? Also if i do main seal, i know i unhook engine from the four mounts, but what other things do i unhook. if I learn to do that, then a swap will be easy cause that can be my foundation. Im not too worried about messing my car up and i have confidence in my mechanical and technical skills, just need some direction. Sorry for being long winded jsut want some guidance so i can get an idea on what i am doing. Thnx

                P.S. Of this car craps out my next car will be either a TSX (Accord Euro R) or Skyline(LOL I WISH)
                Last edited by JaiBeezy DnB; 02-13-2006, 11:06 PM.
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                  #9
                  Ok ill get a new axle, now for axles, can i get lude axle (is it stronger) or should i jsut stick to my car model.

                  Is it 70 per axle?

                  Well ill go to my local auto zone/ advance/ quaker/ napa/ pepboys lol and check them out
                  Thnx
                  Ill pick up a haynes since tehy are good, just i hate reading sometimes.
                  www.myspace.com/sajunglist

                  www.bassdrive.com


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                    #10
                    i DO recommend getting those things fixed and using OEM parts.

                    i DO NOT recommend paying those rediculous labor prices.

                    If you want to tackle them yourself, buy a FACTORY service manual..not a haynes. The factory manual is very indepth and makes doing things like installing a rear main very easy for a first-timer. My rear main too went bad oddly enough after I changed my oil with synthetic

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