R12 to R134a conversion....

[xtremeskier97]

I am converting my system on Wednesday and I have replaced the drier, compressor, and expansion valve. I also replaced ALL the o-rings throughout the system. I need the adapter things that go on the valves that come in the retrofit kits, but I dont want to buy a whole retrofit kit. I dont need all the rest of the stuff that comes in the kits.

My question is, does anyone know where I can buy JUST the adapter things? (ie..the things to the right of the oil in this pic http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...e=1418&ptset=A )

[xtremeskier97]

nevermind...I think I found them at O'Reillys Auto Parts for about $6. Gonna check it out.

Thanks anyways.

[Alex EX]

wtf kind of car uses r12?

[xtremeskier97]

Are you joking or are you really that dumb?

[xaxis360]

my car still uses R12. How is that dumb? Its what all Honda's were filled with until 1994?????

[xtremeskier97]

Mine was still using it too. And I know when cars stopped coming with it. Im not saying using R12 is dumb. I was calling his statement/question dumb. He acts as if he has NO clue what R12 is. Hence the

[Bluejayde]

It is KINDA dumb. It's more harmful to the environment, and it's WAY more expensive. Besides, switching over is the easiest thing ever, and will cost you less than to fill up with R12.

[xaxis360]

R12 does cool better and doesn't leak out as fast because the molecules are bigger than 134. i prefer it. plus, its not harming the atmosphere if it's in my car's A/C system. lol

on a side note, a lot of stupid mechanics convinced people in the 90's that they had to replace all of these components on hondas to convert from R12 to R134-a especially the compressor. they prolly still do. It's a ton of BS. All you have to do is empty the R-12, fix the leaks, if any, then install new connectors on the high/low side. i've heard of many that were ripped off like that and it pisses me off.

[Bluejayde]

R12 does cool better and doesn't leak out as fast because the molecules are bigger than 134. i prefer it. plus, its not harming the atmosphere if it's in my car's A/C system. lol

Good to know.

on a side note, a lot of stupid mechanics convinced people in the 90's that they had to replace all of these components on hondas to convert from R12 to R134-a especially the compressor. they prolly still do. It's a ton of BS. All you have to do is empty the R-12, fix the leaks, if any, then install new connectors on the high/low side. i've heard of many that were ripped off like that and it pisses me off.

Yeah, I think a lot of people still believe that. I switched mine over myself, it was easy. I still have a leak or somthing though cuz I have a lot of bubbles and it doesn't cool very well.

[cp[mike]]

i just screwed on the new fittings and filled it with 134a, and it worked fine...

[xtremeskier97]

So none of ya'll put a vacuum on the system to get rid of any moisture/air before filling it?!

[evol90accord]

My father is HVAC certified, and I picked up a lot of A/C knowledge from him. Moving over to cars, though is a little bit different but I've done it.

You do have to replace some components of your A/C, and if the compressor is gone bad this is the perfect time to retrofit. The drier HAS to be replaced. The oil carried by R12 left in the old drier causes a horrible reaction with the R134a, and causes premature wear on the compressor and other components such as the expansion valve (which I think is the cause of the so called "black death"). It is a good idea to replace these three major compents when retrofitting (however you can just flush really well if you have paint thinner and an air compressor). You should also be replacing all of the orings with r134a compliant components (and a heavy greasing of Nylog). Make sure to flush your condensor and evaporator, and clean the fans in the evaporator housing. The last thing you should consider replacing is the dual pressure switch, they go bad often. Finally, double check the operation of BOTH your radiator fans. Don't forget to add the PAG oil to the new compressor when you charge the system! Do it right, do it once. I did mine last summer and my R134a is still blowing cold in 110* degree weather today... go Arizona! BTW there is a forum hosted by an Arizona A/C company that discusses all of this, and its where I got all of this information. If you need personal assistance, email Tim he was very helpful with my wiring diagrams to troubleshoot my cooling system (because alldata.com no longer allows Honda service manuals... fags).

BTW, the comment about R12 leaking slower than R134a is BS. Your system shouldn't leak at all, and if it does leak its going to leak out hella fast no matter what, the system is under pressure. People are not ripping you off because they tell you to replace components if your retrofitting, its just a good idea and often times these parts really are bad. Get a second or even a third opinion, they'll often tell you the exact same thing the first guy did.

[mrhonda]

Thats all B.S. You don't have to replace anything (unless you have a failed component or leak). All you do is evac the R12 including all the oil out of the system, install the R134a retrofit fittings onto the old R12 fittings, pull vacuum on the system for about 15 minutes or so, add the necessary amount of R134a PAG oil, and then charge the system with R134a.....done.

[Alex EX]

Sorry I thought all cars were filled with 134a in the 90's my bad... I know I got 134a in my car now =)

[ACCORDianate]

i just screwed on the new fittings and filled it with 134a, and it worked fine...

Same here. Filled with 134 last year and its still blowing 40 degree F air today. Nice in cold in the Texas heat.