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    oil problem

    i was changing the oil yesterday and i noticed that oil was leaking very very slowly. like not even making it to the floor (hard to explain..) anyway so i got a new gasket for oil pan but when i put it on the nut wouldnt tighten fully. it would tighten a little bit but not all the way...

    i think i may have tightened it too much and ruined the threading..

    will i have to get a new oil pan??
    also i put a bowl under the part where its leaking, can i just gather the oil that leaks from the oil pan and just put it back into the engine?

    edit: i searched btw, it wont let you search oil or pan (i guess it doesnt let you search such small words..)
    The Car

    #2
    bump......

    someone please help.
    i talked to some guy at napa and he ordered me a oversized screw thing that goes into the oil drain i hope to god that works..

    if not can i go to the junk yard or something and grab a oil pan off another accord?
    The Car

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      #3
      instead of getting a whole new oil pan, y not just rethread the hole with a tap? or is that out of the question?

      Comment


        #4
        Remember, there's tow sets of threads that attach the oil pan: threads on the bolts and threads in the block. If you strip one of the bolts, replace it. If you strip a block threading, then what were you doing tightening it down so tight? It should be done in pound-inches, not pound-feet of torque. Rethread the bolt hole threads or live with the leak; no amount of sealant will keep it from leaking as the pan is going to flex with temp changes.
        Former: 90 Accord EX Coupe, 93 10th Anniversary in Frost White

        1985 Volvo 245 manual [IPD lowering springs, IPD sway bars, OEM Virgo wheels, 1977 quad round headlights, 1978 grill]
        2001 Mazda B3000 SE 4x4 extended cab [stock except for CB radio]
        2008 Ford Escape XLT [bone stock]
        2015 Toyota Prius Three with solar roof [rear diffuser, Vision Cross wheels... cheaper than steelies!]

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          #5
          how do i re thread???
          The Car

          Comment


            #6
            i would just live with it... if it isnt leaking too badly, then just keep a bottle or two of oil in the car and every time you get gas check the dipstick to make sure the oil is where it should be. when it starts getting low, add some. IMO its easier and cheaper to do it this way then to deal with rethreading the drain plug or swapping the oil pan.


            - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
            - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
            - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
            Current cars:
            - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
            - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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              #7
              the oil went from full to low in about 1-2 days... not to mention the oil spots on my driveway, school and work....

              how hard would it be to take out the oil pan? doesnt look that hard. (but what do i know..) anyone know where theres a diy or something for doing this??(probally not one existent..) if i went to a mechanic how much you think it would cost to either put in a new oil pan or re-thread the old one??

              thanks so much for your help guys.
              The Car

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                #8
                I bought my oil pan off www.slhondaparts.com for $150, and was charged $120 to install it. This was when I didn't know much about cars, and when I asked them why it costs soo much they said, and i quote, "We have to pull out the manifold." That was BS. Jack up the car and remove and do it yourself.

                Comment


                  #9
                  First you said you got a new oil pan gasket, then later you asked how hard it would be to take out the oil pan? If you replaced the gasket didn't you drop the pan?

                  If it's the drain plug hole that you f'ed up you can try rethreading it. I've heard of this being done sucesfully. If you buy a new or used pan, get a new gasket and put it on yourself remembering to start all the bolts with your fingers first, and take it easy on them

                  Comment


                    #10
                    the washer that goes on the oil plug (the screw thing) was called the "gasket" by the guys at napa... i bought that. today i bought an oversized oil plug (screw) they told me that might work.. i hope to god it does.

                    so if that doesnt work im gonna go to the junk yard and grab a new oil pan.
                    seems easy to me (but what do i know..) cant i just take off all the screws and pull the thing out?? the pop on the new one and ill be all set??
                    The Car

                    Comment


                      #11
                      you can get a new pan from www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for like 90 shipped. Its really not that hard, just take the old one off, and loosen/tighten the bolts opposite of each other a few turns at a time. Dont tighten one bolt all teh way down then move to the next.. tighten all of them a few turns, then go back around.

                      Make sure to put some RTV or hi temp flexible sealant on the gasket where it goes around the half circle part. Right in the corners. When you are tightening the pan down, just tighten it down until the gasket squishes about level with the edge of the pan.. maybe like a TINY bit farther(like 1mm).

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                        #12
                        I just took my oil pan off last night to replace the gasket. The fuckin thing was barely even on there, i could finger loosen most of the bolts! No wonder it leaked

                        You have to take out the that piece of frame support and take out a few bolts to drop the header and part of the exhaust manifold down, but then it comes out with ease. You may have to unplug the O2 sensor wire too depending on how high you jacked the car up. Its like a total of 5 bolts for the frame suppport and 5 for the exhaust if I remember correctly, then all the oil pan bolts are yours for the taking.

                        Is it really necessary to use RTV sealant on the gasket? Every time I use that stuff on a new gasket it ends up leaking, especially in the valve cover... even the dealership couldn't get it right! If I don't use sealant, it always seals up nicely... weird, huh?

                        "Sticker this, censor this, ban this
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                        We'll be heard anyway!
                        Middle finger is the flag that I wave when I'm silenced!" - MuDvAyNe, "Silenced"

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