Question about Rod Bearings

[BreckAConner]

I have recently tore my motor apart and now putting it back together. My question is, do the bearings and rod ends/caps go in a certain order? I kinda lost track after tearing into a lot of things and moving stuff around. I purchased new bearings,when me and a buddy torque them down with the correct specs, the crank seizes. These bearings are the first rod cloesest to the pump. It's where the crank wont turn unless a lot of force is used. We didn't try and force the crank to turn, I didn't feel like messing up new bearings. The bearings/rods are lubed and clean, nothing chunky in between. I've searched the forums and haven't found anything on the order the bearings or rod caps go. Can someone please lead me in the right direction?

Please and Thank you!

[dj_ender]

The bearings are generally differing thicknesses, so if you put a thicker bearing into a main or rod that uses a thinner bearing, then that can cause your issue. And you have to keep the same end caps where they came from.

[illinois_erik]

Damn you fuxked up man.. The rod ends have to stay with their respective rods. Other than that you're going to now need plastiguage and a micrometer. Honestly what you should do in order to get out your predicament is take it to a machine shop and tell them what you did. With their experience they should be able to save your ass easily...if thats not feasable your learning curve is going to need to a sharp increase. Next time keep track of everything and keep everything in order and you'll be alright. Good luck.

Oh and I hope you didn't put the pistons back in all willy nilly unordered too. They need to go back where they came from also :-\ look for the factory service manual PDF online and you'll see whats going on. You might even be able to formulate a solution on your own for the FUBAR situation ur in. Don't get discouraged and just go a head with it or you'll need a new short block before you get out of the driveway.

[BreckAConner]

Damn you fuxked up man.. The rod ends have to stay with their respective rods. Other than that you're going to now need plastiguage and a micrometer. Honestly what you should do in order to get out your predicament is take it to a machine shop and tell them what you did. With their experience they should be able to save your ass easily...if thats not feasable your learning curve is going to need to a sharp increase. Next time keep track of everything and keep everything in order and you'll be alright. Good luck.

Oh and I hope you didn't put the pistons back in all willy nilly unordered too. They need to go back where they came from also :-\ look for the factory service manual PDF online and you'll see whats going on. You might even be able to formulate a solution on your own for the FUBAR situation ur in. Don't get discouraged and just go a head with it or you'll need a new short block before you get out of the driveway.

I didn't drop the pistons, they are in their correct place. I figured I screwed up. I'll figure it out from here.

[BreckAConner]

The bearings are generally differing thicknesses, so if you put a thicker bearing into a main or rod that uses a thinner bearing, then that can cause your issue. And you have to keep the same end caps where they came from.

Say if I switched them around until they didn't rub, would the car be okay having different rod caps, or do they absolutely need to be with the rod they were with?

Bearings are new, and the motor only has 133K. Long story short, brand new oil pump vacuum studs broke because of being cheap causing oil not to pump and started to wear old bearings.

[GhostAccord]

The sides of the big end (BE) of the rods should have a stamp on them. Usually this would allow you to match the caps back to the rods correctly.

What bearings did you buy?

The block has already been blueprinted from the factory and the bearing specs for each rod and main journal is stamped on the block. If you just bought standard size bearings this could also be the reason for the stuck crank. They may not be the correct sizes.

[BreckAConner]

The sides of the big end (BE) of the rods should have a stamp on them. Usually this would allow you to match the caps back to the rods correctly.

What bearings did you buy?

The block has already been blueprinted from the factory and the bearing specs for each rod and main journal is stamped on the block. If you just bought standard size bearings this could also be the reason for the stuck crank. They may not be the correct sizes.

I bought standard size bearings, where is this stamp on the block?

[cp[mike]]

also if the bearings arent too old, you may be able to still see the color strip on the side. combined with the etched number on the side of the cap that spans across to the rod, you may be able to match them up.

[BreckAConner]

also if the bearings arent too old, you may be able to still see the color strip on the side. combined with the etched number on the side of the cap that spans across to the rod, you may be able to match them up.

I did see the colors. I'll check that when I get home today. I didn't think about that.

Checked the colors, they are faded...

[BreckAConner]

My friend was saying that there's a tolerance for the bearings, and I need to know that so I can buy the right plastigauge?

Anyone know what it is, and what size plastigauge I need?

[GhostAccord]

Connecting rod bearing clearance
0.021mm - 0.049mm (0.0008" - 0.0019")

[BreckAConner]

Connecting rod bearing clearance
0.021mm - 0.049mm (0.0008" - 0.0019")

Thanks soooooo much Ghost, your awesome!

[BreckAConner]

I can't find in my local part stores a plastigauge that small. Am I missing something?

[dj_ender]

It's the green plastigauge that you want.

[BreckAConner]

It's the green plastigauge that you want.

Okay, that's what I thought. I went to the store and they told me that they didn't have anything that could measure that small. Which they handed me the green one that was the smallest. I decided not to get it just incase it was the wrong one.