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Super loud suspension. Taking guesses

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    Super loud suspension. Taking guesses

    I've been dealing with this for a while.
    It used to have a higher pitched squeak. I replaced the upper control arm last week.
    It's definitely coming from the right side.



    Anyone know what a bad rack sounds like?
    MRT
    37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
    30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
    27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

    Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

    Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
    Originally posted by Tippey764
    I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
    Originally posted by deevergote
    sneaky motherfucker

    #2
    Lower ball joint or Rack/tie rods.

    Have some one turn the steering wheel while the car is securely jacked up and get underneath to pinpoint the sound. If the sound goes away when lifted then maybe use a ramp to keep the suspension loaded.

    I had a lower ball joint break on me a couple of weeks after hearing a similar sound. Drove with the annoying sound for a week before I finally checked it out. When I lifted the car the sound went away and didnt come back, so I ignored it. Then.... SNAP! fortunately I was only going about 15mph at the time.
    Last edited by Tishock; 09-17-2013, 04:27 PM.


    Comment


      #3
      I have no play in any of the parts.

      I've been ignoring it for months, but it's getting frustrating, and I think I'm getting to the snap point.

      How will I know if it's the rack?
      MRT
      37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
      30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
      27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

      Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

      Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
      Originally posted by Tippey764
      I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
      Originally posted by deevergote
      sneaky motherfucker

      Comment


        #4
        That sounds more like smooth surface on smooth surface grinding to me, not like something a rack/pinion might make; the sound is too smooth and continuous, and directly responding to how fast/slow you are turning the wheel. My vote is balljoint as well.

        Comment


          #5
          that is the lower ball joints mines sounded just like yours until i replaced them and my car feels much better

          Comment


            #6
            Its definitely your lower balljoints. I experienced the same issue with my car, used to creak, loud as hell when turning at slow speeds or at idle. I thought it was my tierods and could've sworn that it HAD to be them...ended up swapping the D/S one out 3 times before I said F this and bought new lower BJs.

            I replaced my lower BJs with Honda OEM ones and the noise completely went away. My thinking is yours are getting really dry. Even though there isn't any slop or tears in the boot, The grease is probably dried up and gotten flaky. I got mine for cheap though, 21 a piece from the dealer. The newer Honda BJs don't use a C-Clip which is weird, I guess its an improved design, so they were a lot easier to install.
            Last edited by Losiracer2; 09-17-2013, 11:32 PM.

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            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Losiracer2 View Post
              Its definitely your lower balljoints. I experienced the same issue with my car, used to creak, loud as hell when turning at slow speeds or at idle. I thought it was my tierods and could've sworn that it HAD to be them...ended up swapping the D/S one out 3 times before I said F this and bought new lower BJs.

              I replaced my lower BJs with Honda OEM ones and the noise completely went away. My thinking is yours are getting really dry. Even though there isn't any slop or tears in the boot, The grease is probably dried up and gotten flaky. I got mine for cheap though, 21 a piece from the dealer. The newer Honda BJs don't use a C-Clip which is weird, I guess its an improved design, so they were a lot easier to install.
              Sounds like it to me to as well. Had the same experience.
              What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

              You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

              Retro!

              Hater

              I love nooBs...They make me look good

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for the advice guys.

                I did the passenger side, and most of it went away. Still had a slight noise so I did the drivers side as well.
                Both upper control arm bushings were shot. I need to find the Prothane ones I took out and reinstall them.

                Anywho, the ball joints caught on the wheel bearing. Both sides did it, but I caught the drivers side before it did any damage.







                This seems odd to me. They've never done this before. As of yet, no noise from that bearing.
                MRT
                37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
                30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
                27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

                Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

                Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
                Originally posted by Tippey764
                I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
                Originally posted by deevergote
                sneaky motherfucker

                Comment

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