My rear motor mount is stuck in between the crossmember and the intake

[GeoffM]

Any suggestions of how to get it out the rest of the way?
I already have the engine jacked up to pretty much the max and the cross member pried down.
No hurry though, I ran out of time and the next available time I have is Friday afternoon

[illinois_erik]

that sucks.. which way are you trying to come out with it, have you disconnected the front dogbone? when thats out the motor can tilt out of your way a good amount. I dunno about you, but I have an auto, was in the the suspension anyway, took out the driver axle and oil filter and the bar that runs the length of the car and took maybe 20 mins changing mounts if that from the bottom

[Losiracer2]

yeah it was such a bitch for my EX 5spd rear mount that I converted it to an LX/DX 5spd mount and bracket that went in in about 5 min lol.

I actually ended up unbolting all the other 3 motor mounts and jacking the engine up about 3-4 inches to get the old one out.

[GeoffM]

that sucks.. which way are you trying to come out with it, have you disconnected the front dogbone? when thats out the motor can tilt out of your way a good amount. I dunno about you, but I have an auto, was in the the suspension anyway, took out the driver axle and oil filter and the bar that runs the length of the car and took maybe 20 mins changing mounts if that from the bottom

I've got the oil filter out. I haven't taken the drivers side axle out yet because it hasn't become an issue.... yet. I know once it clears this section that it's in I'll have to remove the axle.

The front mount is disconnected, as well as the sway bar and all 4 bolts that hold up the rear crossbeam. I've tried prying it down but I can only get an inch or so out of it.
I'm hesitant to try more because I know something else is holding it in there, and I don't want to break it.

yeah it was such a bitch for my EX 5spd rear mount that I converted it to an LX/DX 5spd mount and bracket that went in in about 5 min lol.

I actually ended up unbolting all the other 3 motor mounts and jacking the engine up about 3-4 inches to get the old one out.

I might try that. I'll leave the trans mount attached and move the jack under the oil pan.
That should let me lift that side of the motor up.
Right now I have the jack under where the differential is in our trans, so it tilts the back of the motor up. If I undo the mount for the drivers side, I should get enough play to lift the entire thing up.
That I might be able to do tonight, even though I won't be home till 9

[Losiracer2]

when I first bought the car, I replaced it with the correct EX 5spd mount but after a year of driving, I got tired of a bone stock accord shaking while in neutral at lights....a stock car with new mounts just shouldn't do that. To make things worse, the only way I was able to get it out the first time, I damaged the heater core, which led me to having to remove the entire dash in order to fix it. I had the lines looped temporarily in the summer time but knew I had to fix it before winter hit.

Since I didn't want to buy an OEM honda mount for hundreds of dollars, I had this lx/dx as a spare and found a LX/DX bracket in the JY for cheap. It gives you way more clearance and the mount has tons of space to move around w/o hitting/breaking anything during install.

[GeoffM]

when I first bought the car, I replaced it with the correct EX 5spd mount but after a year of driving, I got tired of a bone stock accord shaking while in neutral at lights....a stock car with new mounts just shouldn't do that. To make things worse, the only way I was able to get it out the first time, I damaged the heater core, which led me to having to remove the entire dash in order to fix it. I had the lines looped temporarily in the summer time but knew I had to fix it before winter hit.

Since I didn't want to buy an OEM honda mount for hundreds of dollars, I had this lx/dx as a spare and found a LX/DX bracket in the JY for cheap. It gives you way more clearance and the mount has tons of space to move around w/o hitting/breaking anything during install.

I was very very close to crushing the heater core lines while I was back there.
I still couldn't get the hoses off, which made it even worse!

I finally got it installed though. I removed the bracket that goes to the trans and the heater valve and was able to slide it in through there.
Problem is, I still had the old mount stuck under the intake!
Well once I had the new mount in place, I new I could destroy the old mount, so I did! That's when I learned that there is actually fluid in there. Right when the blade from the sawzall cut into it and sprayed it everywhere.
I always thought they were talking about air as a fluid.

Anyways, new problem:
I have a weird gurgling noise, and I don't think the mount is switching modes.
It's fine when driving, but is incredibly rough at idle.
Any ideas on where to go from here?

[Losiracer2]

Oh so you have an AUTO? I thought yours was the dreaded EX 5spd.

But make sure the vac line and that solenoid is plugged in. I think those are the two necessities required for the mount to operate. If its not working after that, then I'd assume the mount is defective.

What brand is it?

[illinois_erik]

when my LX gets massaged im doing away with that pneumatic mount, and using DEA A6547 (37$) Amazon. Or the equivalent Anchor 8011. This one will be filled again with liquid poly, I filled the new pneumatic one on my SE and didnt hook up the vac line.

[Straight Success]

Kai,

How's the dx/lx set-up performing?

[Losiracer2]

Kai,

How's the dx/lx set-up performing?

works flawlessly. No vibs at idle, like it should. Even though the mount looks way less beefy than the EX 5spd mount, its still holding up fine.

I think I could even put in an Energy insert in it if I wanted. But since this is just my daily, I don't run it that hard.

[Bad_dude]

Perhaps, when you are done GeoffM, you could do a DIY with pictures or videos. I want to do mine though it's not that bad yet. So I could wait. What did you take off to get the mount out and back in?
Thanks.

[GeoffM]

Perhaps, when you are done GeoffM, you could do a DIY with pictures or videos. I want to do mine though it's not that bad yet. So I could wait. What did you take off to get the mount out and back in?
Thanks.

I am done, but I got too frusturated to document it.
However, either that valve is bad or the mount is bad. When I get a chance I'll look again.

Definitely go from the top.
Remove the intake tube, the vacuum box, disconnect the mounts for the fuel filter and lines.
Remove the heater hoses and the heater valve.
Unbolt the cross member and front and rear mounts.
Finagle that thing out from the top. You'll have to bend the flexible fuel line a little bit past where I was confortable, but no issues.

CUT THE HEATER HOSES

If they don't pull off immediately cut them. I tried pulling and ended up leaving them.
Less than a month later I just finished doing my heater core.

[Bad_dude]

CUT THE HEATER HOSES

If they don't pull off immediately cut them. I tried pulling and ended up leaving them.

So are you saying that we should cut the heater hose to remove the mount?
Thanks.

[GeoffM]

So are you saying that we should cut the heater hose to remove the mount?
Thanks.

The two that come out of the firewall. If they don't come off with light tugging, cut them.

[Bad_dude]

The two that come out of the firewall. If they don't come off with light tugging, cut them.

Are those expensive to replace? Wouldn't you have to top up your coolant and bleed it after?
Thanks.