Where to wrap or attach chains to lift engine out

[Restless]

So I'm trying to take my engine out using a hoist, but was wondering where the chains should be wrapped to get the best support? I was thinking wrapping a chain around the left motor mount and one around the transmission. It's a H22 and I already have the battery, intake manifold, intake, radiator, A/C all out. All the connectors are disconnected and my cylinder head is in the machine shop so it's just the block and tranny right now that we're trying to lift out. Thanks.

[Jarrett]

Do you have a load leveler? If not then I recommend putting a bit of slack on the passenger side and using a bellhousing bolt at the back of the block. On the driver side you're good with wrapping it around the mount. But you want the transmission to lower itself out of the way of the bracket on that side and to come out with the timing side of the motor facing toward the sky a bit. Let me know if you have problems. Text me at 979-492-1666 if you need more help.

[sulimed]

i have a chain about 2ft long. one end i run the alt. bolt thru it, on the other side i remove the backside top tranny bolt and run it thru.

[Restless]

Yeah I'm using the load leveler and ended up wrapping the transmission and left motor mount. Didn't want to pull the block & tranny out tonight so I'm going to wait until tomorrow morning to lift the them out. I'll let you guys know how it goes

[thepowderblue]

Hook it on the ps pump bracket and you can pull it out like that with the tranny.

[Jarrett]

He said the head is off so I imagine the power steering pump bracket is gone also.

[cp[mike]]

i think the motor mount is a better lift point than either accessory bracket, its more centered and helps keep the motor from tipping backwards too far. i usually remove just the nut for the motor mount, and put the very last chain link on the stud and reinstall the nut, basically bolting the chain to the mount bracket. if you put a jack under the engine oil pan (with a piece of wood) this way you can actually remove the mount itself, giving yourself working room while still having a secure attachment point. just be careful of the valve cover, if you happen to do this with the head on - once the weight is put on the chain, the angle may put a lot of force against the brittle cover... i usually stuff a rag in the gap before lifting.

for the transmission, all of them have a little hook bracket bolted on the back upper side of the casing. its a good spot that gives a good balance based on the weight of the gearbox and differential, and once you find it its easy to use a spare nut&bolt to attach a chain link to it.

[Restless]

Thanks fellas for all the advice. I got stuck for an hour cause the tranny side was dropping down like I wanted to and the P/S or crankshaft pulley kept getting wedged into the body, but after getting the right angle and the pulley out of the way I finally got the sucker out. I'm almost called you Jarrett when I got stuck. Now I just have to pull the tranny off of the block and send the block to the machine shop. I was going to change the piston rings, however when I took the head off a chunk of the piston in cylinder 1 was missing so I'm getting new pistons, rings, wrist pins, the block bored & honed since the wall were scratched. The head was a little messed up to from the chunks of metal from the piston, I guess the valves weren't seating right so I'm getting new internals for the head. I'll post some pics once I get the engine back in of the disassembly and reassembly cause I've been taking lots of pics to remember how to put the parts back on. Thanks again guys for all the input.