I dont know what would cause the rotors or whatever to make the car shake when I start to brake at 30 mph or higher and even at slower speeds, somebody please give me and example of what could be causing this issue. i change my rotors over 3 years ago and just recently change my brakes 1 year ago, I'm debating on changing my ball joints, because my wheels dont have any play in them when you do the shake test. I did found out that my sway bar has a bad rubber bashin on the passenger side and its causing a metal clanking noise HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
very rough shaking when braking at 30mph or higher
Collapse
X
-
My first guess would be rotors. That bushing isn't that expensive, so I'd do that too.MRT
37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit
Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car
Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
Originally posted by Tippey764I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheatOriginally posted by deevergotesneaky motherfucker
-
continue....
to add insult to injury, I went to a mechanic and he wants to charge $120 to change both rotors out if thats the problem, another question, will the power rack and pinion cause the shaking too?
Putting my 2 cents in alright, anybody have change for a half penny? Ok that didn't make cent.. WTF?
Comment
-
Originally posted by ChIoVnIdCa View PostLook it up. 120 isn't a bad price for labor.
Putting my 2 cents in alright, anybody have change for a half penny? Ok that didn't make cent.. WTF?
Comment
-
Originally posted by krb92accord View Postits not bad but the last mechanic only charge me $30 for one side and I guess thats the reason I'm getting them done again huh? I saying though what could be so hard about replacing the rotors, it looks simple...just a few bolt and the spendle nut right?
Comment
-
Originally posted by krb92accord View Postto add insult to injury, I went to a mechanic and he wants to charge $120 to change both rotors out if thats the problem, another question, will the power rack and pinion cause the shaking too?
There are DIY videos in the beginner technical stickies.MRT
37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit
Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car
Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
Originally posted by Tippey764I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheatOriginally posted by deevergotesneaky motherfucker
Comment
-
if you drove 100,000 miles in the 3 yrs then yeah the rotors are probably bad. They don't last forever. They're probably warped. Its better to replace then to refinish them since you'll have less material and they'l be more prone to warping again.
member's ride thread
93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
91 Accord SE 176k
97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents
Comment
-
To reply...It's a process of elimination. Your life and your passengers depend on your breaks to work better than just good. Screw all the mods until you know they, the breaks, will be perfect.
Make sure you know if your alignment is good and if the wheels are balanced. Then have a real good mechanic measure your rotors for the proper thickness. If enough metal is on them to turn them, do it. (It will "scrape" off a layer of metal) The process if done right will resurface them and give the pads a even surface to press against. It will/should eliminate the wobble. If the car STILL wobbles, then go deeper into the problem. Look at the components the members stated above to look at.
A real good alignment and wheel balance should be close to 180. Different prices for the rotors turned. google your town for "highest reviews for ....." Read the reviews and pass by some places and see how many cars are there. Beat up cars mean cheap fix, and shit work... a few high end cars and you know it can be trusted: would you take you 40k car to a shit mechanic?
Hope I shed some light on your problem since I had the same and did the above last week. My car stops shaking and rides and breaks great and I can hold the steering wheel without looking like I'm ***ing off!
Old wagon - Silver '92 LX Wagon - Steve (Shadow)- STOLEN ON LABOR DAY 2012
New wagon- White '92 LX Wagon on 1/3/13 (Frostbite)
2000 EX Coupe - Joe -
www.AccordWagonClub.com
My Facebook Site - ACCORDOBSESSION
Comment
-
what would be a few reasons a tie rod goes bad
I do have over 411,000 miles and I have neglected my ride for sometime, but its tax time now and shes getting new rotors and tie rods but have do know if the rotors or ties rods are the only problem? I did replace the broken bushing on the sway bar, but what else could be casuing the shaking when I brake? Also what could cause the D4 light to stay on? I was parked and went in a store came out and started the car and the D4 light stayed on and I put it in gear and it ran really slow
Putting my 2 cents in alright, anybody have change for a half penny? Ok that didn't make cent.. WTF?
Comment
-
what would be a few reasons a tie rod goes bad
I do have over 411,000 miles and I have neglected my ride for sometime, but its tax time now and shes getting new rotors and tie rods but have do know if the rotors or ties rods are the only problem? I did replace the broken bushing on the sway bar, but what else could be casuing the shaking when I brake? Also what could cause the D4 light to stay on? I was parked and went in a store came out and started the car and the D4 light stayed on and I put it in gear and it ran really slow, I had to drop to first and drive like till I got home. What could have cause that to happen, I took the battery terminal off and it resetted the D4 light... but why?
Putting my 2 cents in alright, anybody have change for a half penny? Ok that didn't make cent.. WTF?
Comment
Comment