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very rough shaking when braking at 30mph or higher

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    very rough shaking when braking at 30mph or higher

    I dont know what would cause the rotors or whatever to make the car shake when I start to brake at 30 mph or higher and even at slower speeds, somebody please give me and example of what could be causing this issue. i change my rotors over 3 years ago and just recently change my brakes 1 year ago, I'm debating on changing my ball joints, because my wheels dont have any play in them when you do the shake test. I did found out that my sway bar has a bad rubber bashin on the passenger side and its causing a metal clanking noise HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

    Putting my 2 cents in alright, anybody have change for a half penny? Ok that didn't make cent.. WTF?

    #2
    My first guess would be rotors. That bushing isn't that expensive, so I'd do that too.
    MRT
    37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
    30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
    27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

    Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

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    Originally posted by Tippey764
    I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
    Originally posted by deevergote
    sneaky motherfucker

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      #3
      You should check your tie rods. I had similar problem. Changed my rotors and all. Ended up being one bad tie rod. Replaced both and never had that problem again. Hope it helps

      MRT H22A - 302whp - N2O
      MRT F22B - 643whp - 529tq @ 30psi
      11.33 @ 131mph @ 27psi

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        #4
        continue....

        to add insult to injury, I went to a mechanic and he wants to charge $120 to change both rotors out if thats the problem, another question, will the power rack and pinion cause the shaking too?

        Putting my 2 cents in alright, anybody have change for a half penny? Ok that didn't make cent.. WTF?

        Comment


          #5
          thank ya'll, i will check the tie rods, by the way how much does brand new rod run?

          Putting my 2 cents in alright, anybody have change for a half penny? Ok that didn't make cent.. WTF?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by krb92accord View Post
            thank ya'll, i will check the tie rods, by the way how much does brand new rod run?
            Look it up. 120 isn't a bad price for labor.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by ChIoVnIdCa View Post
              Look it up. 120 isn't a bad price for labor.
              its not bad but the last mechanic only charge me $30 for one side and I guess thats the reason I'm getting them done again huh? I saying though what could be so hard about replacing the rotors, it looks simple...just a few bolt and the spendle nut right?

              Putting my 2 cents in alright, anybody have change for a half penny? Ok that didn't make cent.. WTF?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by krb92accord View Post
                its not bad but the last mechanic only charge me $30 for one side and I guess thats the reason I'm getting them done again huh? I saying though what could be so hard about replacing the rotors, it looks simple...just a few bolt and the spendle nut right?
                the hub also has to be pressed out thats the part that will make it cost a little more
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                  #9
                  Originally posted by krb92accord View Post
                  to add insult to injury, I went to a mechanic and he wants to charge $120 to change both rotors out if thats the problem, another question, will the power rack and pinion cause the shaking too?
                  That's not bad. The shop I wen to charged me $180, and I brought them rotors!

                  There are DIY videos in the beginner technical stickies.
                  MRT
                  37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
                  30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
                  27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

                  Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

                  Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
                  Originally posted by Tippey764
                  I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
                  Originally posted by deevergote
                  sneaky motherfucker

                  Comment


                    #10
                    if you drove 100,000 miles in the 3 yrs then yeah the rotors are probably bad. They don't last forever. They're probably warped. Its better to replace then to refinish them since you'll have less material and they'l be more prone to warping again.

                    member's ride thread
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                    91 Accord SE 176k
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                      #11
                      To reply...It's a process of elimination. Your life and your passengers depend on your breaks to work better than just good. Screw all the mods until you know they, the breaks, will be perfect.
                      Make sure you know if your alignment is good and if the wheels are balanced. Then have a real good mechanic measure your rotors for the proper thickness. If enough metal is on them to turn them, do it. (It will "scrape" off a layer of metal) The process if done right will resurface them and give the pads a even surface to press against. It will/should eliminate the wobble. If the car STILL wobbles, then go deeper into the problem. Look at the components the members stated above to look at.
                      A real good alignment and wheel balance should be close to 180. Different prices for the rotors turned. google your town for "highest reviews for ....." Read the reviews and pass by some places and see how many cars are there. Beat up cars mean cheap fix, and shit work... a few high end cars and you know it can be trusted: would you take you 40k car to a shit mechanic?
                      Hope I shed some light on your problem since I had the same and did the above last week. My car stops shaking and rides and breaks great and I can hold the steering wheel without looking like I'm ***ing off!

                      Old wagon - Silver '92 LX Wagon - Steve (Shadow)- STOLEN ON LABOR DAY 2012
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                        #12
                        what would be a few reasons a tie rod goes bad

                        I do have over 411,000 miles and I have neglected my ride for sometime, but its tax time now and shes getting new rotors and tie rods but have do know if the rotors or ties rods are the only problem? I did replace the broken bushing on the sway bar, but what else could be casuing the shaking when I brake? Also what could cause the D4 light to stay on? I was parked and went in a store came out and started the car and the D4 light stayed on and I put it in gear and it ran really slow

                        Putting my 2 cents in alright, anybody have change for a half penny? Ok that didn't make cent.. WTF?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          what would be a few reasons a tie rod goes bad

                          I do have over 411,000 miles and I have neglected my ride for sometime, but its tax time now and shes getting new rotors and tie rods but have do know if the rotors or ties rods are the only problem? I did replace the broken bushing on the sway bar, but what else could be casuing the shaking when I brake? Also what could cause the D4 light to stay on? I was parked and went in a store came out and started the car and the D4 light stayed on and I put it in gear and it ran really slow, I had to drop to first and drive like till I got home. What could have cause that to happen, I took the battery terminal off and it resetted the D4 light... but why?

                          Putting my 2 cents in alright, anybody have change for a half penny? Ok that didn't make cent.. WTF?

                          Comment

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