ignitor / distributor woes

[Shag Wagon]

Ok I found out that the jumpy tach needle is NOT the ignitor. I replaced mine with a used...but only 2 weeks old ignitor and it still jumps around. I think its those little magnets inside the dizzy that get metal shavings from the rotor and cap. Yes I had the little plastic peice installed that goes under the rotor. So maybe the problem is those little magnets in there (dont know what they are called yet) but its the cause of the jumpiness im sure. All connections are good and NO MORE INTERNAL OIL LEAKAGE!!! Just telling yall this before yall go out and buy an expensive ignitor or dizzy.

[cp[mike]]

jumping tach is definitely the ignitor, nothing else within the distributor has anything to do with the gauge cluster! the ignitor (blue wire) is wired DIRECTLY to the tach, its called the Tach Output Wire.

metal shavings wont hurt anything, besides possibly intefere with those "magnets" you speak of, which are inductive pickup coils - these do not have anything to do with the tach and if any of them were going bad (or picking up a poor signal) then youll throw a bunch of odd CEL lights and your car will be running in limp mode.

perhaps its a wiring problem, or your gauge cluster is dying?

during my wire tuck, i dealt with ignitor-related wiring issues for at least 2 months straight.

[Losiracer2]

x2 on the ignitor being the cause. I had this happen to my F22 awhile back and at the time didn't know about CB7tuner and shoveled out way too much for the main relay and ignitor to be replaced.

[Shag Wagon]

Ok here is what was done:

If yall have been reading some of my posts about my leaking internal dizzy seal...I have been having problems with puking oil from that hole in the dizzy. Anyways this coil has a BRAND NEW ignitor. Never had the jumpy needle. Well I have my wagon dizzy. It has the jumping tachometer and no oil leakage. Since the sedan dizzy is junk I transfer the brand new ignitor to the wagon dizzy then put the wagon dizzy on the sedan. I have the jumping tach needle. I notice some of the guts had some black shit on it. All connections were perfect and wiring almost beautiful condition! SO what I am trying to get at is the jumpy tach is not always the ignitor. And just to buy a whole brand new dizzy if it happens. Just bought a brand new one with cap and rotor for 85 shipped. Just trying to save somebody some money and frustration.

[Losiracer2]

well there is always a chance of the part being defective. Try testing it with a multimeter to see if its within specs.

[Shag Wagon]

No dude im telling you...the new ignitor was working very properly in the bad sedan dizzy. No jumping needle or hard starting. (and this is with oil all down in it) I mashed down the connectors on the ignitor a little bit because they seemed a little loose. Got in the sedan and drove around...VTEC YO it started jumpin up to 5 like it did in the wagon. But what I am trying to tell yall is that its not always the ignitor and dont jump into buying a new one when you think its the problem. If it is just buy a whole new dizzy.

But this weekend I will tear into it and see what the deal is inside that bad boy. I will get some nitrogen and shoot all the dust out of it and see if that helps. I did notice the cover under the rotor was broken a little bit.