Intermediate shaft on Auto H22 possible?

[Losiracer2]

Reason I ask this, is last night, first time I went to the track w/ my newly swapped H22. I did three runs, pretty disappointing to me, 16.32 was my best time, I did 16.38s for the other two. But on the fourth run, my friend who's got a 300whp turbo'd SE, mentioned I needed to heat up the tires to get a better launch.

So I guess I FUCKED up and tryed to neutral drop it at like 3K RPM and it SNAPPED my D/S axle right after the part that goes into the trans, so you have the inner CV joint and then it connects to the axle, well that part that's formed onto the axle, that has bevels sheared cleanly off.

Thank god, I had LSD, b/c it was already 1030 at night and I was a good 60 miles from home. So I actually managed to drive to his place, about 30 miles away, w/ just my right side CV axle. And we bought another Accord axle from Checker brand new for 70 bucks w/ no core fee....pretty good price IMO.

But I want to upgrade my D/S axle w/ that intermediate shaft if at all possible. What parts/axles would I need to do this?

Here's pics of the carnage: up in 5min


^^^^the metal end piece of the axle, which was heat treated/formed onto the axle shaft sheared off.

^^^nothing in there but grease

[C91BLX7]

Neutral drops=Bad

[slick]

Neutral drops=Bad

x1238235983597329587

[Losiracer2]

so is it possible to do that intermediate shaft on my Auto?

[CB7Man]

Neutral drops are the #1 killer to automatics
Serious, if someone tells you to do it, smack them

[owequitit]

You will have to get them and try it out.
Should work though, because the MT and AT 5th gen Prelude seems to use the same setup.

P.S. The CORRECT way to heat your tires, is to use the water box, put the car in drive, engage the ebrake and to do a burnout. The water makes the traction low enough to break the tires loose. Or it should.

1) On all season tires, it is going to be marginal at best. Even on high performance street tires, it isn't going to be all that beneficial.

2) You can try lowering the pressure in your tires slightly. Again, more than a few PSI is going to do more bad then good, so don't expect them to behave like drag radials.

3) You may also want to make sure you drive around the waterbox all together to avoid having wet tires on launch, which will certainly have an adverse effect.

4) You will probably find that the best way to launch you car is to powerbrake it at the line, and apply full power. If you don't know what that is, stand on the brake, and just prior to the light tree going off, give it full throttle, holding it with the brake. Then when the last amber starts to light, let off the brake. By the time car actually moves, the last light will be green, and you shouldn't red light. That will give you the most energy off the line, and can make a fairly significant difference in your time.

Your time is just about right for an auto H22 CB7. Maybe with a perfect launch a 15.9 or so.

I would expect a manual model to run mid to low 15's under the same circumstances.

[PR CB7]

so is it possible to do that intermediate shaft on my Auto?

i dont think it would be possible dont quote me

but the auto axle is longer on the part that goes tho the tranny

[Losiracer2]

You will have to get them and try it out.
Should work though, because the MT and AT 5th gen Prelude seems to use the same setup.

P.S. The CORRECT way to heat your tires, is to use the water box, put the car in drive, engage the ebrake and to do a burnout. The water makes the traction low enough to break the tires loose. Or it should.

1) On all season tires, it is going to be marginal at best. Even on high performance street tires, it isn't going to be all that beneficial.

2) You can try lowering the pressure in your tires slightly. Again, more than a few PSI is going to do more bad then good, so don't expect them to behave like drag radials.

3) You may also want to make sure you drive around the waterbox all together to avoid having wet tires on launch, which will certainly have an adverse effect.

4) You will probably find that the best way to launch you car is to powerbrake it at the line, and apply full power. If you don't know what that is, stand on the brake, and just prior to the light tree going off, give it full throttle, holding it with the brake. Then when the last amber starts to light, let off the brake. By the time car actually moves, the last light will be green, and you shouldn't red light. That will give you the most energy off the line, and can make a fairly significant difference in your time.

Your time is just about right for an auto H22 CB7. Maybe with a perfect launch a 15.9 or so.

I would expect a manual model to run mid to low 15's under the same circumstances.

yeah, 16.3 is eh...i was hoping for mid to high 15s. I still need to get to Locash and have Jon tune my ECU to get him to delete that CEL for the EGR and that traction control code hopefully. It was REALLY cold though last night, about 45/46 degrees is what their report said before I went.

[preludeman92]

Uhm, were you really loosing traction with an automatic from a standing start? Even with 185 wide super cheap tires I couldn't loose enough traction in a straight line to make it a problem.

You could make an intermediate shaft and run one easy... you'll just need a custom length intermediate shaft as I doubt the intermediate shaft from the auto 5th gen prelude would be the right length.

[The G-Man]

The RA1 Odyssey uses an intermediate shaft.

[Night Wolf]

I thought about that too when I was AT. it seems like itll work.

[C91BLX7]

I've just realized that the H23a VTEC uses an intermediate shaft.

[prNonVtec4u]

looks like a good diy project... but seems kinda unecessary from my point of view UNLESS dealing w/ a built trans that's sufficient of withstanding enough torque to BREAK axles b4 braking itself

i've had the same axles since vehicle was bought YEARS ago, i've had a GOOD share of track runs, and have yet had an axle gimme a problem... so far my best time has been a 9.3x 1/8th mile (b4 the build).

neutral dropping is a bIIIg no no to start with... if you'd like better launches, invest on a good stall converter or (sorry to bring this up) a 5spd swap . and the whole warming up tire deal... unless you're spinning badly from take-off, it's pretty much a waste of good rubber.

just from now on, keep doing what every other auto is capable of doing for a "decent" launch... power-brake it as far up as possible (usually 2.2k-2.5k on our cars) and let that fucker rip once green light's up

[cp[mike]]

could they be using that small intermediate shaft in place of what would optionally be an ATTS unit? im wondering...

anybody have better pictures of one?

[Night Wolf]

of the ATTS? or the haft shaft?