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    extreme oil sludge buildup: suggestions?

    im working on an H22 swap for a friend and just today i cracked open his new JDM motor. what i found was oil sludge buildup, so much beyond what ive ever thought id see inside of any motor. theres no particles in it, its just a thick sludge, with a lot of buildup especially in the corners of the head.

    its as if somebody took scoopfuls of grease and packed them into the corners of the head.

    the lower end isnt so bad, its just thick oil... still, its insane in the head/valvetrain.




    no what im asking for is suggestions as far as what to do about this. if you notice the cams are clean, i bet the motor would run, im just not comfortable AT ALL having this motor running without being cleaned up first.



    as it sits, i plan to put it up on a stand and take the head apart, and take the oil pan off, and use a pressurized water hose to spray inside of the head as clean as possible. then drain and clean the bottom end out (without disassembling).

    then i will reassemble the head (relubing everything of course), and replace the majority of the seals.

    is there anything wrong with this plan? anybody have a better suggestion?

    once its together, perhaps running seafoam in the oil, or running ATF (has detergents?) or something. then a couple frequent oil changes to follow, while monitoring the buildup.


    what i am worried about is possible side effects of either the buildup itself, or my proposed method of cleanup. the VTEC oil passages are pretty small, they could be clogged up, or even the oil pump...



    comments, suggestions, concerns, options, everything is welcome.


    pics:

    open a "low miles jdm motor" to find this...
    [img]http://www.****.com/pics/carlosswap/sludge/topend.jpg[/img]

    [img]http://www.****.com/pics/carlosswap/sludge/head.jpg[/img]

    you can see how thick its built up on the heads of the bolts.
    [img]http://www.****.com/pics/carlosswap/sludge/camcaps.jpg[/img]

    scraping with a screwdriver reveals the thickness of sludge buildup
    [img]http://www.****.com/pics/carlosswap/sludge/scrape.jpg[/img]

    i pulled a thick solid chunk of buildup out of the corner near the cam gear!!!
    [img]http://www.****.com/pics/carlosswap/sludge/chunk.jpg[/img]

    gross. i tried turning the crank over and the pickup did clear itself out well...
    [img]http://www.****.com/pics/carlosswap/sludge/pickup.jpg[/img]

    not so bad
    [img]http://www.****.com/pics/carlosswap/sludge/crank.jpg[/img]


    - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
    - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
    - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
    Current cars:
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    - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

    #2
    pour a shit ton of seafoam down the oil passages and then turn the engine upside down and pour a shit ton of seafoam in there just to wash all that shit.

    then run something like 15w40 cus it the seafoam would have thinned out the oil in the bearings.

    but the rest of your process sounds good.

    CrzyTuning now offering port services

    Comment


      #3
      I would not pressure wash it ... to much exposed metal that can instantly rust with regular water. If you could some how (virtually impossible) use distilled water then i would say do it. I would just use mineral spirits throughout the motor. I probably would disassemble the bottom end to a certain extent, like check the bearings. If really thick oil was used in this engine their is a possibility it had a knock and who ever was the previous owner was trying to cover it up. Another possibility is some dumb ass keep changing the oil with too thick of a viscosity, or they just never changed it at all. Ether way the bearings would probably be the first to get damaged under any of the above conditions described ... remember if the bearing are messed up the motor will still rotate and you wont know it till you start it up with the proper oil in it.

      Sorry for the long post hope it helps ....

      In Need of an engine, just a basic f22a...pm me if you have one willing to part with.

      Comment


        #4
        Brake cleaner?

        Yeah don't hose it off sleeves would rust
        Meh, not feeling the honda game anymore.
        MY CAR IS SOLD!!!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by champagneaccord
          Brake cleaner?

          Yeah don't hose it off sleeves would rust
          x2

          i wud brake clean the shit out if it n wipe it off with a rag
          Hold On Not Done Accelerating
          Had One Never Did Again

          Comment


            #6
            what i might do is take the motor down to someone who can do an internal clean on it. When i took auto we add a machine you hooked up to the oil pan drain bolt and the oil filter and it would send a cleaner threw the entire motor, and made it look good as new. The only thing I am concerned about if there is that much oil goo would any of the internal passage be clogged, and would the method i say clean those well to.

            ::edit::
            Which company did he get that motor from?
            Last edited by NorcoAccord; 03-18-2008, 09:44 PM.

            "Real intelligence is like a river; the deeper it is, the less noise it makes.”

            Click Me

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by champagneaccord
              Brake cleaner?

              Yeah don't hose it off sleeves would rust
              FRM sleeves wont rust.

              And as far as cleaning goes, I would think that the basic degreaser would work well. Just repeat the process as many times needed.

              Comment


                #8
                I wouldn't use water. Solvent tank would be Ideal. Or if your cheap buy like 10 cans of brake cleaner.
                wat?

                Comment


                  #9
                  I guess you can stick with your plan Mike, without the water part. I know a couple of people who have used Auto-Rx treatment for their sludge problem on their motor and had pretty good results from it. You can check out the product website. I think it's auto-rx.com. I hope everything will be OK with that motor after all is said and done 'coz it seems that something got mixed up with the oil that had cause it to sludge out like that.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by bruno8747
                    FRM sleeves wont rust.

                    And as far as cleaning goes, I would think that the basic degreaser would work well. Just repeat the process as many times needed.
                    My sleeves became rusty for like 3 days uncovered, had to rehone
                    Meh, not feeling the honda game anymore.
                    MY CAR IS SOLD!!!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by bruno8747
                      FRM sleeves wont rust.

                      And as far as cleaning goes, I would think that the basic degreaser would work well. Just repeat the process as many times needed.
                      Yep I was about to say the same. As long as you clean it off and let it dry out you should be set. A solvent tank which I am assuming your meaning hot tank would melt aluminum. However works well for cast iron blocks/ You can tear the motor apart and take it to steam clean or get it blasted to clean it out but that requires money.

                      The New-ish Ride
                      My old Ride
                      Hear my Vtak!!!
                      MK3 Member #3
                      I piss off people for fun.
                      IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by NAiL05
                        Yep I was about to say the same. As long as you clean it off and let it dry out you should be set. A solvent tank which I am assuming your meaning hot tank would melt aluminum. However works well for cast iron blocks/ You can tear the motor apart and take it to steam clean or get it blasted to clean it out but that requires money.
                        They have aluminum safe hot tanks.
                        Originally posted by sweet91accord
                        if aredy time i need to put something in cb7tuner. you guy need to me a smart ass about and bust on my spelling,gramar and shit like that in so sorry.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          How cold is it over there? I say you put it in a garage with a bunch of heaters and get it as hot as you can. Maybe it will get soft and work its way down.

                          CrzyTuning now offering port services

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by foamypirate
                            They have aluminum safe hot tanks.
                            Hmm interesting havent seen that. I have heard of a "cold" tank but I have never used it before. Maybe that what it is?

                            The New-ish Ride
                            My old Ride
                            Hear my Vtak!!!
                            MK3 Member #3
                            I piss off people for fun.
                            IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Could be, I'm not too sure on the exact lingo, but any machine shop worth it's metal shavings ought to be able to tank an aluminum block.
                              Originally posted by sweet91accord
                              if aredy time i need to put something in cb7tuner. you guy need to me a smart ass about and bust on my spelling,gramar and shit like that in so sorry.

                              Comment

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