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    #31
    First and foremost, a Euro-R in and of itself is about $4G. $3300 is a VERY liberal estimate, and will probably get you a beat-down engine, if it will even get you one at all. Then factor in the extra cost of modification to get everything to work on top of that. (Wiring harness, ATTS, engine mounts, alternator, AC compressor, etc.) Still looking cost-effective? Not so much to me. Gimme a JDM H22A and about $2500 play money and I'll make Euro R power all day long WITHOUT having to wonder WTF to do about ATTS.

    Second, screaming down the highway at ~3700rpm at 70mph in top gear would get REALLY annoying REALLY quickly.

    Third, comparing flow characteristics of H22A heads VS. each other is kind of silly. It would take VERY little to make the two flow identically.

    Finally, gimme my F22A6 any day. Great low-end power, awesome fuel mileage, low highway RPM, low noise levels, legendary stone-stock reliability and easy upgradability FTW.
    ~If everybody you knew jumped off a bridge...the bodies would pile high enough to break your fall if you jumped after them.~

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      #32
      Originally posted by Chrisisiced
      There is definitely a noticeable difference between standard jdm h22's and euro-r/type-s..... After driving one it makes the regular H feel tons slower. Sure the 20hp isnt much but coupled with shorter gears and higher redline its just better point blank. Im telling you if you've driven both you'd understand

      my point exactly.. experience hands down !!


      Originally posted by Devergote
      A CB7 with an H22, a clean paintjob, HIDs with a projector retrofit, some nice wheels, and a mild drop on H&R Sport springs and Koni Yellow shocks... that's the perfect car. I'd be happy with that for the rest of my life.

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        #33
        Originally posted by Camurai
        First and foremost, a Euro-R in and of itself is about $4G. $3300 is a VERY liberal estimate, and will probably get you a beat-down engine, if it will even get you one at all. Then factor in the extra cost of modification to get everything to work on top of that. (Wiring harness, ATTS, engine mounts, alternator, AC compressor, etc.) Still looking cost-effective? Not so much to me. Gimme a JDM H22A and about $2500 play money and I'll make Euro R power all day long WITHOUT having to wonder WTF to do about ATTS.

        Second, screaming down the highway at ~3700rpm at 70mph in top gear would get REALLY annoying REALLY quickly.

        Third, comparing flow characteristics of H22A heads VS. each other is kind of silly. It would take VERY little to make the two flow identically.

        Finally, gimme my F22A6 any day. Great low-end power, awesome fuel mileage, low highway RPM, low noise levels, legendary stone-stock reliability and easy upgradability FTW.
        Read the previous post's, the euro-r does not bring ATTS. U still need to get headwork to match the flow of that of the euro-r and some bottom end work to get the compression done. So with machine work and some form of tuning ur still left spending about the same. Not only that, the gearing takes advantage of the power the euro-r offers.

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          #34
          Originally posted by Camurai
          First and foremost, a Euro-R (Wiring harness, ATTS, engine mounts, alternator, AC compressor, etc.) Still looking cost-effective? Not so much to me. Gimme a JDM H22A and about $2500 play money and I'll make Euro R power all day long WITHOUT having to wonder WTF to do about ATTS.
          The Euro-R didnt get ATTS. the Type-S did.

          If i were to choose between an H22aR and a normal H22a, i'd fork out the extra that is needed to convert my CF4 into a CL1.

          If I were to plonk in an H22a into my CB/CD, I'd rather get a normal H22a.

          Thats just me though.

          But the ball is in your court, what ever that floats your boat

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            #35
            Hmm, nothing about power...
            Well let's see H22R VS. H22A..
            Damn, hard to decide, but the atts comes off with a swap still using the tranny... can this be right or my shop doesn't know what they're talking about
            Here's this tho
            http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329000
            Last edited by i<3mycb7coupe; 02-12-2008, 10:14 PM.

            Originally posted by zack_odom
            Yummmmm. I'm going to go eat some Buddy Club sauce with my Mugen Spoon.

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              #36
              not sure what youre asking, but i very highly doubt theres any shops out there that would be able to hook up ATTS for you in your car.


              - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
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                #37
                No but they take it off to use the tranny.

                Originally posted by zack_odom
                Yummmmm. I'm going to go eat some Buddy Club sauce with my Mugen Spoon.

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by i<3mycb7coupe
                  No but they take it off to use the tranny.
                  read my first post

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                    #39
                    Aight there skippy
                    I'm just telling you what the shop told me...

                    Originally posted by zack_odom
                    Yummmmm. I'm going to go eat some Buddy Club sauce with my Mugen Spoon.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by i<3mycb7coupe
                      Aight there skippy
                      I'm just telling you what the shop told me...
                      sorry u get offended, it's not like i put an exclamation mark. u were asking a question that had already been answered, that shop don't know what there talking about. get the euro-r, if u got the budget for it.

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                        #41
                        found the link, look at this. this what is required to get rid of ATTS in a prelude sh, which you would almost do the same inorder to make a type-s work in a cb7
                        http://preludepower.com/forums/showt...highlight=atts

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                          #42
                          Right on, so what's the difference in the gears of euro r and h22r?

                          Originally posted by zack_odom
                          Yummmmm. I'm going to go eat some Buddy Club sauce with my Mugen Spoon.

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                            #43
                            Seems the same to me. I know the USDM 4th gen trans is more aggressive than the m2b4 especially the 5th gear. The m2b4 is cruisin while the usdm isnt really cruisin. Anyway I havent looked up 5th gen gear ratios but should be similar. The only REAL gearing difference would be a Euro R or ATR trans.

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                              #44
                              here's some info on the different tranny's

                              http://preludepower.com/forums/showt...ht=gear+ratios

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                                #45
                                I dont see what the problem is. 220hp is sick if you can afford it...why the hell not. more hp and bragging rights. and not just any old h22.


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