titanium isnt cheap.
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no no no no. hp numbers are just numbers. they dont mean anything untill you take it to the track. ill tell you what. if i race a type s and it beats by more than a fender in a 1/4 mile track then i will be convinced the 1500 is worth it. since the type s motor is better tuned than the regular h22 wouldnt adding bolt ons have a very little impact on the performance that it already has. getting cheap ebay header wont work cause its no better than the stock on thats already on there unless you get the rmf header which is nearly impossible to get now. and adding and intake maybe the 3 hp the most.
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Originally posted by blizzard335Does the type-s engine look like this??
pardon the writing on the photo, was explaining the differences of the Type-s and euro-r and normal H22a on my local board
Like what BB6-SH said, the ATTS unit will cause major headches when swapped into the CB. Im not sure if the mountings are similar either.
Over here, the 'red' VTECs cost twice as much as the regular VTECs
Let me break down some small specs for each motor compared to the jdm h22
Type-s= Better camshafts, higher compression, better gearing which matters on the track, ATTS if u like it(I do). Bored TB and plenium according to some finds. Also brings that special type-s intake.
Euro-r=Higher compression, Euro-r Intake manifold, Short gearing with lsd and i think it has different cams as well.
If u take equal drivers, one with a euro-r or type-s against someone with an jdm h22, the euro-r and type-s will win hands down. Also when u take it to the track the shorter gearing will own the jdm h22
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Originally posted by BB6-SHyes that is the type-s, u can also tell by the two coolant lines that run to the radiator above the starter.
Let me break down some small specs for each motor compared to the jdm h22
Type-s= Better camshafts, higher compression, better gearing which matters on the track, ATTS if u like it(I do). Bored TB and plenium according to some finds. Also brings that special type-s intake.
Euro-r=Higher compression, Euro-r Intake manifold, Short gearing with lsd and i think it has different cams as well.
If u take equal drivers, one with a euro-r or type-s against someone with an jdm h22, the euro-r and type-s will win hands down. Also when u take it to the track the shorter gearing will own the jdm h22
- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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Originally posted by cp[mike]right on.
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Honda Odyssey Absolute
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There is definitely a noticeable difference between standard jdm h22's and euro-r/type-s..... After driving one it makes the regular H feel tons slower. Sure the 20hp isnt much but coupled with shorter gears and higher redline its just better point blank. Im telling you if you've driven both you'd understand
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Originally posted by ChrisisicedThere is definitely a noticeable difference between standard jdm h22's and euro-r/type-s..... After driving one it makes the regular H feel tons slower. Sure the 20hp isnt much but coupled with shorter gears and higher redline its just better point blank. Im telling you if you've driven both you'd understand
There was this vid I posted a while (long time, actually) ago, featuring my friends CL1 Euro-R.
Upgrading the normal H22a to achieve H22aR power levels aint the same.
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Honda Accord Euro-R
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Originally posted by blizzard335you got the CL1 H22a with T2W4 right?
standard style block and transmission casing, drops right in like any H22... minus the obd2 and euro-r intake manifold changes. in fact, the block is stamped the same as a Type-S block (p5m) along with the pistons, just never came with ATTS, fortunately.
definitely a noticeable difference over a regular jdm h22. much moreso with the matching short geared transmission (i originally ran an m2b4 until i got it)
worth the price difference? debateable. probably unique to each person's situation, and availability of the motors. type-s is more common, but you cant take advantage of the ATTS so youll be sourcing a transmission from elsewhere, and at that point, the only thing special that you have is higher compression pistons and cams... regular intake mani... if youre going to go for it, might as well get the euro-r with its matching manifold and transmission, since those are the best parts anyway
and btw i dont care much about the revs while cruising on the highway, its a whole different feel and you need to feel it before making the judgement. cruising at 4k the motor doesnt feel strained like an F22 would, its at the low end of its power band and is extremely peppy, and a blast to cruise at. granted i wish i had a 6th gear to go into, but im not complaining about my 23mpg.Last edited by cp[mike]; 02-12-2008, 12:40 PM.
- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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A bit off topic, but a CL1 halfcut (actually WAS a complete car, but chopped in half) sold for around 6k USD a few years back. Everything that came in the car was included (recaro seats, HIDs, rims)
Compare that with a BB6 which costs around 2k USD here.
thats 3x more. and you dont get Recaros with the normal H22a
OBDII - OBDI conversion? we dont bother about that here
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Originally posted by whatever210dont you have the f series tranny on your h22. have you ran yours at the track? you dont mind having long gearing with the f22?
but no no track runs
and yeah sorry i meant 11:1 compression,, i accdently said my comp ratio
as for the tranny,,, if this was turboed it'd be down right sick."Self Renewed"
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The whole head is hooked up from cams to valves, so It is a better motor to start with, even though the price is doubled, but why would you pay more than that for a k24, it barely makes much power without major rebuild...
Originally posted by BB6-SHyes that is the type-s, u can also tell by the two coolant lines that run to the radiator above the starter.
Let me break down some small specs for each motor compared to the jdm h22
Type-s= Better camshafts, higher compression, better gearing which matters on the track, ATTS if u like it(I do). Bored TB and plenium according to some finds. Also brings that special type-s intake.
Euro-r=Higher compression, Euro-r Intake manifold, Short gearing with lsd and i think it has different cams as well.
If u take equal drivers, one with a euro-r or type-s against someone with an jdm h22, the euro-r and type-s will win hands down. Also when u take it to the track the shorter gearing will own the jdm h22
Originally posted by zack_odomYummmmm. I'm going to go eat some Buddy Club sauce with my Mugen Spoon.
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Originally posted by i<3mycb7coupeDamn, I just went to the local shop and they said, compared to the h22 euro r is more torqueier than the type s, What do you guys think
which codes
are the euro r and sirt?
The Euro-R is just H22A. The Sir-T is F20B
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Honda Accord Euro-R
Honda Odyssey Absolute
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