Warning to those who've done, are doing or plan on doing a 5spd conversion

[owequitit]

I did not redrill the bracket. I just put the Prelude mount in and shimmed the other side down, not knowing about the side to side difference.

That might be the resultant cause because my axles are both the correct length, and the side to side location is identical to other H swapped CB's that were not redrilled, and relocated.

I don't know about the vertical, but with the car on the ground, the axles are more parallel with the ground, and that should serve to put less of an angle on the inner joint, thus reducing extension slightly.

So perhaps, the IDEAL way to do it would be to buy the ESP mount, and the next best way would be to move the mounting hole.

I know that redrilling the hole made a HUGE difference with the engine alignment, but I do agree that ESP is best.

Also, it should be noted that DrLoveskudang's old CB had the tranny side bracket rewelded. It has some issues, but none related to the mount. They also modified the mount and welded new material to move the engine up higher, which prevented the need for washers on the driver's side.

[H23CB7]

now what are you talking about moving the mounting hole? Im interested in this.

[owequitit]

now what are you talking about moving the mounting hole? Im interested in this.

Look at my member's ride thread. cp[mike] and I had some discussion about the differences in the location of the hole. Basically, you end up drilling a new hole about 3/8" closer to the frame rail, and then about 1/2" up from the stock hole. It butchers the mount bracket, but does work.

Due to the "modification" of the mounting bracked, the ESP mount would be by far the most adviseable way to go.

[avendi]

I currently have the H motor, F trans, and welded manual bracket for a 5 spd conversion.
Under full lock I have destroyed an axle completely and entirely.
I was making a tight left-hand U turn, then my car made this horrible grinding/bogging sound, then a POP followed by a continuous grinding sound.
Turns out that by being at full lock, my hub managed to over extend the inner joint of my driver side axle, which coupled with some acceleration, sheered it in two.
So judging by what I've seen first hand from my car as well as Jon's, whichever way you are turning, the same axle on that side (i.e. left turn, left axle) is being extneded due to the hub quite literally pulling it away.

Now for the interesting part about my situation.
I'm on stock ride height with GR-2's and stock springs, so this axle trouble seems to be present even without being lowered.
Though it seems to be much more prominent (sp?) in lowered cars.


Ideally, don't ever take your steering wheel to full lock if you can help it.
If you have to take it full lock, then atleast don't accelerate while doing so.

[cp[mike]]

avendi, so youre saying you have the "stock" 5spd bracket welded to the side of the car and you still have these issues? my car is also converted by this same cut & weld method, im lowered 2.2" with a camber kit (~1.3°) and i can go lock to lock under load with no problems??

[oranger]

Mmmm I love the [blatant product endorsement]!

[avendi]

avendi, so youre saying you have the "stock" 5spd bracket welded to the side of the car and you still have these issues? my car is also converted by this same cut & weld method, im lowered 2.2" with a camber kit (~1.3°) and i can go lock to lock under load with no problems??

Yeah, I have the "stock" 5spd bracket welded to the side and still have that issue, but only under steering lock with acceleration.

[H23CB7]

Look at my member's ride thread. cp[mike] and I had some discussion about the differences in the location of the hole. Basically, you end up drilling a new hole about 3/8" closer to the frame rail, and then about 1/2" up from the stock hole. It butchers the mount bracket, but does work.

Due to the "modification" of the mounting bracked, the ESP mount would be by far the most adviseable way to go.

Just got done looking at it. I will only resort to that if the money factor comes into play with the esp mounts. Now when you redrill the frame rail bracket you also take out the washers on the driver side mount correct?

[owequitit]

Just got done looking at it. I will only resort to that if the money factor comes into play with the esp mounts. Now when you redrill the frame rail bracket you also take out the washers on the driver side mount correct?

No. You still need washers to level it. For the engine to sit level, without the driver's side washers, the hole in the tranny bracket would have to be about 3/8" above where the bracket ends.

[rudy1980]

avendi, so youre saying you have the "stock" 5spd bracket welded to the side of the car and you still have these issues? my car is also converted by this same cut & weld method, im lowered 2.2" with a camber kit (~1.3°) and i can go lock to lock under load with no problems??

x2 but I'm not sure about the camber degree

[H23CB7]

No. You still need washers to level it. For the engine to sit level, without the driver's side washers, the hole in the tranny bracket would have to be about 3/8" above where the bracket ends.

ok cool

[zeroice]

i have a 92 4 door lx that i turned from auto to manual using a h23 motor/tranny with the lude tranny mount and the rest accord mounts. Havent had a problem with my axles since the swap.. Put almost 15k so far on it and havent even put washers on the drivers side either. Car is lowered 2.5 inches with ingalls camber kit and tein coilovers.

[texasvtak]

i have a 92 4 door lx that i turned from auto to manual using a h23 motor/tranny with the lude tranny mount and the rest accord mounts. Havent had a problem with my axles since the swap.. Put almost 15k so far on it and havent even put washers on the drivers side either. Car is lowered 2.5 inches with ingalls camber kit and tein coilovers.

Odd. I wonder if its really 2.5" What kind of finger gap do you have in the front and what size wheels/tires? Ive got about a 1.5 finger gap up front with 205/60 15s.

[NAiL05]

Springs can say 2.5" but then if your running a diff shock that can change the ride height.

[owequitit]

Odd. I wonder if its really 2.5" What kind of finger gap do you have in the front and what size wheels/tires? Ive got about a 1.5 finger gap up front with 205/60 15s.

I still think it is your mounting location.