Bouncing idle on h22, suggestions?

[deapost]

I know this subject has been beat to death but i dont think any of the searches i did here relate to my problem.

Here's the video showing whats happening

My idle bounces from 900-1500 on my H22 when the car is warmed up. It "sometimes" does it a little when the car is warming up, but mostly when the car has warmed up.

- Changed the idle control valve (under the throttle body where the intake connects)

- I have cleaned out the throttle body

- Replaced the spring that closes the throttle mouth

- flushed coolant

- new thermo (has nothing to do with this i dont think)

- Checked all vacuume lines inside the emissions box

The car runs perfectly and drives great, but the bouncing idle is sooooooooooo annoying! I am also not throwing any codes.

The only code im throwing is a 36?? I guess the prelude that my motor came out of has traction control? Can someone verify this?

Any other suggestions my brothas?

Thanks!

[WiKKeDV16]

you have tried a few things.. but have u tried the simplest?? my sister had this problem as well but it happend mainly when it was warmed up.. if u came to a stop.. the rpms would drop down to idle then go up a bit.. after a while it did become a constant surge.. i tried fucking with the IACV but nothing.. so i was like what the heck.. lemme try the simplest solution..
i tightened the idle screw in some.. and to my surprise the surging slowed.. then finally stopped and now its back to purring..
this may not solve your problem but hell it takes 1 min to try it.. take a screw driver and keep turning the idle screw clockwise till either the surging stops or you hear your intake pitch change due to a tighter space for it to travel(choking your motor).. this has worked on two cb7z.. with f22a though but regardless. i say give it a shot..
my cousin cb7 had the same problem as well and was fixed the same way..


oh and if it doesnt work.. turn ur idle screw back.. dont wanna leave your h22a choked at idle

[deapost]

stupid question. was i suppose to use a prelude map sensor?

Im using the map sensor that came with the accord and i believe its located in the emissions control box.

[deevergote]

I've been having the same problem. I adjusted that screw a little, and it seemed to work. I have yet to be able to adjust it again when it's surging! I guess that means it's gotten a little better!

[deapost]

I tried adjusting the screw. No help there.

Here's some good info i found......

The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

The TPS throttle position sensor is a potentiometer. It is connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle angle changes, the throttle angle sensor varies the voltage signal to the ecu. If you have a check engine light and the get a code 7, there is very likely a problem with your TPS throttle position sensor and circuit.

When the throttle position sensor has failed or is failing, the obvious symptom is loss of power as the ECU cannot tell whether it is closed, mid or wide open throttle to adjust the optimal amount of fuel required. The output voltage should vary between 0.5V (closed) to about 4.5V (WOT).

This throttle position sensor can be used on all 88-00 Honda Acura throttle bodies with multi-point fuel injection.



The Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Sensor

The MAP Sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals and inputs the ECU. If your CEL or Check Engine Light is ON and the blink code indicates 3 or 5, there is most likely a problem with the MAP Sensor. Code 3 indicates an electrical problem and Code 5 indicates a vacuum problem in the Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP Sensor System. The output voltage of the sensor decreases with increasing absolute manifold pressure. This enables it to relay to the ECU to adjust the amount of fuel to be expended. For example, when VTEC is engaged, the manifold absolute pressure surges and the corresponding electrical signal is relayed to the ECU to provide the most favorable air-fuel ratio for the best power output.

Given the explanation above if the MAP Sensor has failed or is failing, it can cause a host of problems. Symptoms such as:

Difficulty of starting engine when cold.
Rough idle.
Misfire or rough running.
Failing emission test.
Loss of power.
Advice for CEL LED error code 5. Before making conclusions, check vacuum hoses, pipes and connections. Make sure all connectors are secure. Reset ECU and check again. If CEL code 5 appears, it means the MAP Sensor is not capable of holding vacuum anymore and must be replaced.
This manifold air pressure sensor can be used on OBD1 and OBD2 throttle bodies if located on top of it.





The Fast Idle Valve

To prevent erratic running when the engine is warming up, it is necessary to raise the idle speed. The fast idle air bypass valve is controlled by a thermowax plunger. When the engine is cold, the engine coolant surrounding the thermowax contracts the plunger, allowing additional air to be bypassed into the intake manifold so that the engine idles faster. When the engine reaches operating temperature, the valve closes, reducing the amount of air bypassing into the manifold.

As the Fast Idle Valve is factory adjusted, it can be installed or removed but not disassembled.

The Fast Idle Valve is a component whereby when faulty can cause some starting and idle-linked problems. The problem is symptomatic and will not trigger the Check Engine light. The list goes:

Difficult to start engine when cold
When cold fast idle out of spec (1,000 - 2,000 rpm)
When warm RPM too high

You can test whether your Fast Idle Valve is working by putting your finger at the lower port of the throttle bore, located at 8 o'clock with the throttle body upright. When the engine is cold, you should feel suction and when warmed up (cooling fan comes on), there should be no suction.

[cp[mike]]

mine did it once after a 5hour ride home from MD... did it for a few minutes then went away (so the car was VERY warmed up..) it did it one other time before it warmed up all the way. it hasnt done it in a long time... im too lazy to care about it :P

[WiKKeDV16]

damnit deever! adjust that fucker.. i bet that will solve ur prob u lazy fuck. if it helped it a lil bit.. some more adjusting will make that shit go away!

[deevergote]

DAmmit Carlos! I can't adjust it when it's not doing it... I don't know if I fixed it in that case!

The only time it pulses now it seems is in the rain, or at short stoplights in traffic... It knows... the bitch is playin with me...

[WiKKeDV16]

lil trick...

pump ur brake while sitting in nuetral alot.. like pump it like a dog.. lmao.. ur idle should raise up.. to about 1,300-400 or so.. if u pump fast enough.. let go and see if it surges.. doing this to my sisters made it surge.. so i adjusted some more and no more fawking surging

[h22sparkle]

Check to see if you have 2 sensors hooked up wrong. cause onetime i had mixed 2 sensors on the throttelbody which = a messed up idle. And there the vacuum lines check and make sure theres no air bubbles. Then last but not least check to make sure you dont have the map plug wires arent hooked up wrong. Check to make sure the map is set and the tps is set.


Do you have the right injectors in there. And make sure its not your computer cause thats a bitch right there i began changing everything come to find out it was a computer problem steve at hmotorsonline gave me a reprogrammed 5-speed.

[h22sparkle]

Love the new quote fizz yeah what he said