5 speed this weekend

[flight50]

Alright, I ran into a few more issues.
#1-The Relay, is 85 & 86 interchangable. On the diagram over in the Tranny swap stickies,cp[Mike] you have 86 going to ground and 85 going to the clutch. In the write in the stickies, 86 goes to the clutch. I flowed the cp[Mike] diagram though. I am just curious.
#2-Also on that same diagram, it says to run the other wire from the clutch switch to the ignition + in the drivers side kick panel. Is that the same as the ignition signal in the kick panel. When I opend my fuse case and looked at the diagram, thats the only one that made sense to me so is this correct.
[img]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/thumbs/small/974769_tf55a/clutch%20/to%20fuse%20box.JPG[img]

#3-My clutch wasn't labeled which side is which. I assume the side of the clutch that protrudes, goes torward the pressure plate and the flatter side goes against the flywheel correct.

#4-Release fork/throw out bearing. I snapped the spring to the bolt, the bearing slides on the shaft w/ grease, the fork rest on the slave. But is there uppose to be a slight give to the assembly. When I move it by hand is wiggles a little and if I pull the fork way back from the slave too much the bearing comes of the shaft and kinda off the fork. I don't think the system actually lets go of the slave and comes off the fork once installed but am I worried for nothing and this is normal.

#5-The differential for the axles in the tranny seems to be rusted out or oxidized or something. Is this because the lack of oil. This tranny set in a garage for about a year in which i purchased from a guy on ebay. Is this okay and once I get it up and running it will be fine. Or should the differential be replaced. If so is a auto h22 and a manual h23 differential the same considering a quaife lsd for a h22 is the same on all f and h series trannies.

[cp[mike]]

#1. interchangable, yes

#2. the 4 pins in the kickpanel, above the fuses, labelled 1, 2, 3, 5 are LOW CURRENT +12v, turned on as follows:
1 - accessory, on when key turned 1 place
2 - ignition, on when key turned 2 places (also while cars running)
3 - parking lights
5 - constant

#3. correct, if you try it the otehr way, youll notice it doesnt fit and wouldnt let the clutch disc actually touch the flywheel, which would be bad. extruded side out, into the pressure plate.

#4. loose is normal, with the pressure of the clutch on one end and the slave cyl on the other, it wont move once installed.

#5. the diff is unfinished metal, being open to the air would cause it to rust much faster than any other metal thats made to be exposed... not much you can do about it, might want to use some naval jelly (rust dissolver, auto parts store) to clean it out so you wont have issues with axles getting stuck on the rust. besides that id just fill it with oil and hope its fine. it may make more noise than normal when first used, but any gear teeth that get used im sure will eventually scrape themselves clean.

[flight50]

cool. you the man mike. what kind of connector or thingy do i use to get my clutch wire to stay into the ignition slot(hole number 2). as you can tell, I am not mechanically inclinded,lol. i am learning as i go. but in turn i can do the same for others as i am getting help here. by the way how many of this swaps have you done cp[mike]. you answer all my questions and without a smart elic attitude. i appreciate that. you have yet to tell me you don't know something or send me off to find the answer elswhere.Tranny is in. Now i just have to get all my mounts/brackets situated and bolted up. I have to get my motor/tranny to shift to the drivers side about 3/4 of an inch or so to get my tranny mount bolted down. I just posted the mount part in another thread and I was directed to try a 2x4 and a prybar. I can't wait to try this. I used the 5th gen accord tranny mount. So do i need to put the 2/3 worth of washers on the drivers mount first and then pry. Then I will be set. Everything else should be gravy as before. It will be all down hill from there. One funny thing is..... I just need to move the whole motor over a lil. I have a leveler on top of my motor and its level without the washers already. Is the tranny not being bolted down yet decieving me. Also from a post almost a year ago, I was told that I need to use the f22 crank pulley versuses the stock h22. This is not part of the write up parts list though. Looks like the h22 will work but I will have to see.

[cp[mike]]

cool. you the man mike. what kind of connector or thingy do i use to get my clutch wire to stay into the ignition slot(hole number 2). as you can tell, I am not mechanically inclinded,lol. i am learning as i go. but in turn i can do the same for others as i am getting help here. by the way how many of this swaps have you done cp[mike]. you answer all my questions and without a smart elic attitude. i appreciate that. you have yet to tell me you don't know something or send me off to find the answer elswhere. well until next time. i was able to finally get that tranny in. now i just have to get all my mount situated and bolted up. somehow i have to get my motor/tranny to shift to the drivers side about 3/4 of an inch or so to get my tranny mount bolted down. Then I will be set. Everything else should be gravy as before.

np dude. use a normal spade/blade connector that youd use on a pair of speakers.

ive done a number of 5spd conversions, maybe 8? not really even sure. when somebodys doing a swap and they are coherent and are capable of figuring things out and they just need help with the details, im always willing to help out, as this is a cover that isnt covered in detail anywhere, and not too many people know about it. its the people who want me to walk them through it step by step that i dont bother helping as much.

suggestions on tightening up the mounts: put the washers on the driver mount (3/8" - 1/2" worth) and tighten it all up before doing the other mounts. are you keeping power steering? if so, while the mount is loose, use a prybar to hold the motor as far away from the driver side of the engine bay (even tho thats opposite of what you think you want) while you tighten the bolts down. the rear mount should already be installed. third, do the tranny mount... now be aware that it wont fit perfectly and the mount will be too far toward the passenger side for the bolt to fit thru (like u said)... loosen the 3 studs that hold it to the tranny so it has plenty of room to move around loosely. get the bolt thru the mount to hold it to the engine bay (the mount will be crooked at this point) then tighten the 3 studs to pull the tranny up to the mount. the mount will straighten out for the most part. then when it comes time to put the front mount on, youll notice that its too far off to line up - jack up the front edge of the motor to lift it enough to get the bolt through. do them in this order and you should have the best results...

btw youll know the tranny went on if it slid on and clunked flush against the motor. sometimes if it gets jammed up without sitting flush, people use the tranny bolts to pull the tranny and motor together, and this is a horrible thing to do. if it went on, its on.

[flight50]

no i am not keeping power steering. my belt was always off and now i am in the process of removing the rest of the system. i never tighted my tranny mount down yet, so it still has some play. but my front mount is already on. but i loosened it. but i will use the process you just listed.

as far as the tranny going on...........oh crap,lol. i was thinking that getting the tranny onto the dowel pins was just a tight fit. i believe i got the tranny pretty striaght. it lined up with the bolt holes and the dowel pins and seem like it just needed a lil hmm to get the pins to go in. so i then used the bolts to pull it together. now based on what you just said, i am scared now that i might have jammed it, so i might have to redo it.

[flight50]

I have a new problem that just occured. As I was putting the 4 bolts thru the tranny to the block, 2 of my bolt holes stripped out on the block. I was just using a regular socket wrenched. The threads on the inside of the block, stripped out and screwed onto my bolts. The holes are the two front ones. The low one by the slave and the one that goes thru the starter. The tranny is tight with the two top bolts up top and the bracket where the flywheel cover is but Should I not even worry. As of now I just have the basic I/H/E. I saw a little about timesert and helicoil on civic/teg block.