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**flight50** · 12-06-2006, 01:31 PM

man i got 76 views and no one has anything for me. i guess i am in this alone. no one even bothered to flame at the least,lol.

**foamypirate** · 12-06-2006, 06:23 PM

Someone will answer eventually. I can't really help, as I haven't done it, otherwise I would.

**flight50** · 12-10-2006, 12:19 AM

Never mind. I will wing it and figure it out myself.

**JARHEAD293** · 12-10-2006, 12:37 AM

dude sorry i aint much help, sure will be a sick 5spd wagon thou. anyways man try honda-tech.com. gl brother

**cp[mike]** · 12-10-2006, 02:56 AM

alright let me go through this for you.

does the upper clutch assembly require the sleeve behind the dash like the 5th gen, does the master clutch assembly require the two nuts as spacers to attach inside cabin on the firewall

the 4th gen clutch pedal is all directly bolt-in, unlike the 5th gens. two nuts (already there for you) and a 12mm bolt, no sleeves needed.
...

the shifter wiring in the two gens, plus the one post that cp[mike] did, all seem to differ to me (this confuses me the most),

the wiring for both gens is the same process, but possibly different colors... here it is simply: at the grey shifter connector, tie the green/white and black together to make it think its in Park. extend the green/black and the yellow wires from the same connector all the way to the two wires of the reverse light switch on the top of the tranny (colors are the same).
...

and the cb7 write up says something about unpluging the clutch assembly connectors and tieing in black wires. there are no wires to the connector. are they speaking if the wires were pulled with the assembly at a junkyard. should visit a junk yard and get these connectors for the clutch assembly.

does ur state do strict inspections? the clutch pedal wiring and relay are to make it so the car wont start unless the clutch pedal is pressed down. a feature to safeguard against starting the car while its in gear. if they dont check for it (and you dont ever accidentally do it), you dont need to do any of that: all you need to do to get it to work is tie the two very thick black (sometimes black/white instead) wires together that were in a 2-pin brown plug on the shifter.

if you do need to wire it up, yes youll need the matching plugs, so you can wire it up according to how its listed in this picture: http://www.****.com/pics/neutral_switch.gif
...

the 5th gen doesn't include a 30amp relay-is it really necessary, the wiring diagram from the manual (book) shows that pin I, connects to everything-do i actually splice in everything with i, i observed cp[mike]'s on post but i can't tell if they are all tied in, or just taped together to keep them out the way.

im not sure what youre talking about, but if its about wiring up the relay, i just mentioned that above.
...

also i will be using a 5th gen tranny mount, so on the drivers side, i am to use 3/8" worth of washers to level out the motor right.

correct, stack them between the mount itself and the bracket coming off the side of the motor.
...

i am to completely remove the throttle cable in which i assume the manual doesn't require the throttle cable to the tranny correct.

thats the kickdown cable, its only for autos, remove it.
...

please, assist if you can. aslo is there is any steps that you all ran into that you can share will help. for i am not really mechanically inclined so i am trying to learn and save myself some money by doing this myself. i will have a friend to help with the muscle parts as well.

dont forget the flywheel bolts, most people forget to get 5spd flywheel bolts, the auto flexplate bolts are too short. from the dealership they are like $4.50 each, and u need 8, and they are special order... plan ahead, get them used if you can. other than that, its not too bad... remember that Haynes and Chiltons manuals are still like 95% useful for doing a 5spd conversion, all youre doing is removing the auto tranny and some parts, and reinstalling a 5spd tranny and its related parts. all of which is covered in the manuals.

**JARHEAD293** · 12-10-2006, 05:24 PM

mike is the man

**flight50** · 12-12-2006, 06:33 PM

yes he is. thanks mike. i have been waiting on your reply. i started breaking things down on sunday. the master cylinder nut question, i found this out when i started breaking it down. yes my state does do inspections but i am unsure if they would check for the clutch safety. so i might as well wire it up like the factory. and you answered what the relay was for. i was gonna ask that. thanks. i already printed out your wiring diagram for the clutch. i will be using that, a hanynes, a downloaded pdf of the 4th gen accord and the 4th gen lude helms manual, the write up on here and the 5th gen write up from accordinglydone. i think i can do this. i am excited about the whole project. i have been collecting parts and waiting for a whole year and a half to do this. i am finally here. lol.

***the 5th gen doesn't include a 30amp relay-is it really necessary, the wiring diagram from the manual (book) shows that pin I, connects to everything-do i actually splice in everything with i, i observed cp[mike]'s on post but i can't tell if they are all tied in, or just taped together to keep them out the way. **

i was referring to looking at the wiring diagram from the manual of the auto shifter assembly. it looks as though all the gears are wired to the the (i) connection on that chart. and in your post (cp[mike] of the wiring questions in the stickies) this same manual diagram i saw that you tape up all the loose wires. i was confused on if you actually just tape them up to get them out the way or they are all acutally twisted together to make one connection.

as far as the flywheel bolts, yes i bought the manual one online. so i am cool there. i bought everything on the cb7 parts list as its listed with the exception of the 30 amp relay. in which i will get today on the way home.

just to make sure i am get the right thing. this is what the 30 amp relay should look like correct. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...EMSD%7C%7Etrue
sucker ain't cheap,lol.

**flight50** · 12-12-2006, 06:36 PM

okay. never mind that 30 amp relay question at the end. I just say my pm in which i asked. Thanks cp[mike]

**flight50** · 12-20-2006, 11:15 AM

so far my swap is going good. i am taking my time so its taking me a bit of time. i only get to work on her for so many hrs per day if any at all. the most time consuming was the pedals like everyone has stated already.

for you that have done the swap.

. number 17. i took the Rear Mount Bracket Stay off. Now the Rear Mount bracket I have, doesn't have the bolt to reattach the Stay once I put the manual Rear Mount on the block. Could I possible have gotten the wrong Mount/Bracket. I don't know if its from a EX or LX, I got it from the junk yard. Mount seem to have been in good condition so I got it. Majectic and others don''t have the Bracket or Mounts in stock everytime I have looked. All I know is that the bolt isn't on the Mount Bracket. Could I just bore out a hole on the bracket and fix this or do I not need the Stay at all.

**NYKnick1015** · 12-22-2006, 12:47 AM

as much as i wanna do a auto-manual swap i dont got the money 2.... to dam expenisve plus labor... its more than teh worth of my car and my car got alot of money invested in it

**cp[mike]** · 12-22-2006, 12:55 AM

leave the stay off

**flight50** · 12-23-2006, 02:20 AM

okay, thanks mike. i dropped my tranny this evening. it gave me a hassle at first until i figured out the main wiring harness was bolted to the tranny via a hanger. i was about to drill thru my mount to add the stay bolt until i remembered i asked this question on here. tomorrow i should be able to get quite a bit done,so check-in on me tomorrow night in case i get stuck somewhere fellas. but so far its been smooth for the most part.

**flight50** · 12-23-2006, 02:28 AM

Originally posted by NYKnick1015

as much as i wanna do a auto-manual swap i dont got the money 2.... to dam expenisve plus labor... its more than teh worth of my car and my car got alot of money invested in it

non sense man. its not too expensive if you do everything yourself. i did however spend like 1300 or so in parts but alot of my stuff was bought brand new. when i do my write up i will do a price list as well. but i have been gathering parts for about a year and a half. you have to be patient on the parts. i have been wanting this for the past 2 years and finally i am doing my swap. i save up money to have my swap done but i then thought, why burn 800 bucks when i can pocket that and do it myself #1. learn my car #2. and #3, i will know its done right because of the process i took to do it versus a half ass job that a shop might do.

**flight50** · 12-28-2006, 09:54 AM

Alright, I ran into a few more issues.
#1-The Relay, is 85 & 86 interchangable. On the diagram over in the Tranny swap stickies,cp[Mike] you have 86 going to ground and 85 going to the clutch. In the write in the stickies, 86 goes to the clutch. I flowed the cp[Mike] diagram though. I am just curious.
#2-Also on that same diagram, it says to run the other wire from the clutch switch to the ignition + in the drivers side kick panel. Is that the same as the ignition signal in the kick panel. When I opend my fuse case and looked at the diagram, thats the only one that made sense to me so is this correct.
[img]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/thumbs/small/974769_tf55a/clutch%20/to%20fuse%20box.JPG[img]

#3-My clutch wasn't labeled which side is which. I assume the side of the clutch that protrudes, goes torward the pressure plate and the flatter side goes against the flywheel correct.

#4-Release fork/throw out bearing. I snapped the spring to the bolt, the bearing slides on the shaft w/ grease, the fork rest on the slave. But is there uppose to be a slight give to the assembly. When I move it by hand is wiggles a little and if I pull the fork way back from the slave too much the bearing comes of the shaft and kinda off the fork. I don't think the system actually lets go of the slave and comes off the fork once installed but am I worried for nothing and this is normal.

#5-The differential for the axles in the tranny seems to be rusted out or oxidized or something. Is this because the lack of oil. This tranny set in a garage for about a year in which i purchased from a guy on ebay. Is this okay and once I get it up and running it will be fine. Or should the differential be replaced. If so is a auto h22 and a manual h23 differential the same considering a quaife lsd for a h22 is the same on all f and h series trannies.

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