How many of you with H22 that had to replace their auto tensioner?

[aznpnoyracer]

I know that the auto tensioner for the h22 has a history of failing, usually around the 120K mark. if so did you had to use the H23 manual tensioner? I didnt do mine and I cant afford to pull my engine out again. is it possible to replace the auto tensioner while the engine is on the car???? pls chime in.

[phatdoughnut]

You have the wrong idea my friend. After 120k miles of course that part is gona fail because its OLD. I thought it was suppose to be changed when the timing belt was at 90k miles, but i could be wrong.

The way you are making it sound is like, Oil has a history of failing after 3k miles so use synthetic.

The auto tensioner fails for 2 reasons -

1. Because the part is old and wore out, just like the timing belt

2. Because the part can only hold so much horsepower(probably stock horsepower)

And people change it for a 3rd reason, which is that its cheaper to replace it with an h23 manual tensioner than it is to buy a new auto tensioner.

Now im gona say this, I have yet to see one fail on stock horsepower before they are due for servicing.

And to answer your question, why wouldnt you be able to change it with the motor in the car? you might need to drop the motor some on the driverside to access it better.

[NAiL05]

Either way when you do timing your gonna have to drop one side of the motor regardless. And yea my auto is doing fine for now, And phat covered basically everything else.

[SteveB]

2. Because the part can only hold so much horsepower(probably stock horsepower)

How could stresses on the tensioner vary with horsepower?

I could see stress on the bearing portion varying with RPM's, but the bearing doesn't change I don't think, only the method of tension keeping.

[Dirty Harry]

How could stresses on the tensioner vary with horsepower?

I could see stress on the bearing portion varying with RPM's, but the bearing doesn't change I don't think, only the method of tension keeping.

Steve is right.

The way some people think is really fuckin' strange...

[phatdoughnut]

Sorry i guess i shoulda been more specific, I know what your talking about tho.

[ez8o5]

just got done doing the auto to manual tensioner swap and now my timing belt is too short, do i need to be using the h23 timing belt? i also didnt need to use the plate

[phatdoughnut]

I used the h22 belt no problems. a little tight but it fit.

[AccLuDe12x2]

this has nothing to do with your question, but i also need to change my timing belt & i bought a new water pump and a manual tensioner .. you guys are saying that you have to take the drivers side mount off and lower teh eng w/ a lift thats beat, i think im gonna take it somewhere and hav it done cuz after changin the clutch and swapping the motor in i just dont want to touch my eng lift again lol but my question is do u HAVE to drop the eng to change these things

[cp[mike]]

you definately need to lower the motor a little bit to get the crank pulley off, and how do you expect to put the belt on AROUND the mount if the mount is still connected and bolted in? put a jack under the oil pan and take off the driver mount, and use the jack to let the motor drop down a little bit (1-2 inches). i usually let the oil pan rest on a stack of bricks or wood to hold it. the motor doesnt need to move much, just sag down a bit (which can be done with a normal jack, not hoist).

[AccLuDe12x2]

you definately need to lower the motor a little bit to get the crank pulley off, and how do you expect to put the belt on AROUND the mount if the mount is still connected and bolted in? put a jack under the oil pan and take off the driver mount, and use the jack to let the motor drop down a little bit (1-2 inches). i usually let the oil pan rest on a stack of bricks or wood to hold it. the motor doesnt need to move much, just sag down a bit (which can be done with a normal jack, not hoist).

i see now, thanks dude

[WilliamW]

I dont know. I've jsut had my engine out and I didnt think it was that bad. I figure that if I took it to a "mechanic" they would charge me about 600 bucks for everything for a timing belt, waterpump, and instilation. I could have my engine out in 2 hours. Figure transmission linkage removal, coolant hoses, wiring harness, engine mounts, radiator(option), and half shaft removal, there is really nothing that costs too much to remove the engine. Once it's out just take the timing cover off and do all the work you need to. 2 hours to get it out, 1-2 hours for work, and another 2 for instilation. It's an afternoon project.

(This is with a friend who is mechanically inclined. Engine removal is usually a 2 person job anyway)

[kamaccord]

My tensioner was replaced after the engine build.

[BIGDOM]

yea you dont need to pull the mototr ,, if that was the case people would b pullin motors to replace timing belts,, and i actually had a friend with a 98 prelude have a auto tensioner fail,, its a common problem with the h22's,, so if your replacing a timing belt rergardless whether its on a performance motor or not i would recommend with the manual tensioner..

[aznpnoyracer]

yea you dont need to pull the mototr ,, if that was the case people would b pullin motors to replace timing belts,, and i actually had a friend with a 98 prelude have a auto tensioner fail,, its a common problem with the h22's,, so if your replacing a timing belt rergardless whether its on a performance motor or not i would recommend with the manual tensioner..

thanks Bro, thats what I thought. h22 auto tensioners are notorious to fail.