what up peeps i got this old f22 block here an i was thinking is it possible to slap a h22 head on there. you guys think it will work
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h22 head + f22 block = ????
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nah, nah, nah.
its possible to mount it, people have tried, but to my knowledge, nobody has gotten it running reliably yet.
- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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its possible but finding the information is rather difficult...and alot of custom work. I'd say be prepared for a hefty grocery list if ur attempting this. And a big question is what head gasket will u use, eh?Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12
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haha everyone is so misinformed on this its sad
someone HAS done it someone HAS fired it up lol..
not alot of custom shit to be honest
h23 timing belt needs to be used and tensioner
f23 headgasket and use the h22 gasket as a templete to trim off some spots for coolant ports..
4 oil plugs need to be made .. using bolts and some hondabond for extra safety
there was one other issue with the water pump but was dealt with.. ill dig up the info in a few.. i wanna see what ever else thinks and the negativity towards it before i post a pic of a h22a head mounted to a f22 block bwhaah
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i believe he got back in there and adjusted the vavle lash.. but then again he hasnt posted about it .. so i might go back into that thread and post a "bump" damn jose u killed it.. lol.. i wanted to hear all those
"it cant be done"
"bs"
"with alot of money."
but then again hes an ass for decking the block instead of just replacing the pistons.. but i doubt there was any serious issues with it..
edit.. from the gators mouth..
the only thing is that the valve train is alittle tappy, i don't know if it was from the dissassembly or what but im going to look into it. there other thing is that the timming belt was flapping alittlebit, and im not sure if its too loose, or if they are supposed to have alittel movement.
But the timing is probably not where it is supposed to be, but the valve tapping is my main concern, i mean i did ssemble and disassemble the head 3 tmes, but i never touched the ajusting screws, do you think the vavle tapping is do to the timming belt flapping allittle,
which brings me to the problem, i may have fucekd myself when i decked the block 35 thousanths, or when i reused a seminew belt. there isn't a whole lot of tenssioner adjustment left on this. i guess if i have to i can max the tentioner out, and then if the belt is still too lose i have to find a tensioner with a bigger iddler pully, or find a water pump with the "YU" teeth spacing that has more teeth than the h22 (YEAH RIGHT)..
Last edited by WiKKeDV16; 04-07-2004, 10:10 PM.
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Quote, originally posted by LEGACYF22T ğ me lol<<
so far the only problems u have/can tell.. the valve tapping?? man.. i hope that the cause and u have her running friday.. would make for an excellent side project..
yeah the valve tapping i think is jsut because since i have owned the car i have never done a valave lash adjustment, and when building the motor i clayed 3 times, so the assembling and disassemling may have done something
edit.. just found this.. lol
here is an update:
i did a valve lash adjust ment and the valves sound better, its not as tappy, but im going to be making an auto stethascope (sp?) and poke around and listen for any weird noses. the other thing that it could be is the LMAs, i don't know how tappy those get when worn out. it runs realy nice, idles very smooth, and revs so effortlessly,
as far as the turbo setup: unless things change i decided that i can't afford a 550 dollar, 250 for injectors, another 200 for wideband, plus tuning , plus cost of welding up my exhaust, and the cost of boost control soliniod and pigtales to work with EMS
so what it think im going to do is finish rebuilding a t3 60 a/r compressor side, and 63 a/r hot side, and stick with the 9 psi spinrg in the wastegate, find a pintal cap for the one dsm 450 injector i have that is missing it, and i read somewhere about making custom calibration disk for a FMU, i was gonna do the math with the upped fuel press from my intake walbro 255 lph, include the injectors, and then make a disk to increase fuel press X psi per psi of boost
im not sure though whats going to happen running low on $, but the hybrid runs, and im sure it would be fun to drive, but im leaving it up in the air for right now in order to put all the turbo stuff on.
also there are still no collant leaks or oil leaks , i can't wait for someone to do this with a F22a1, its going to be sooo much easier i think than using a f22b2 block.
lemme kno wwhat you guys thing
Last edited by WiKKeDV16; 04-07-2004, 10:17 PM.
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I plan to take the easy way out till I have enough extra $$$ for sleeves and turbo kit ( probably 2 or 3 years).
Oh yea easy way out:
H23 (p14) head and, 10.5 or 11:1 pistons.
hell monda already did both of these " swaps " when they made F22B, F20B, F20a.Life is wide, limitless. There is no border, no frontier ~ Bruce
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