crank bolt removal

[accord93racer]

i swapped an h22 into my cb7 and i am having balance shaft trouble and i want to remove the balance shaft belt...when i tried to take the crank bolt off the pulley just turned with it...then i put the car in gear and the pulley still turned a little bit...then i used an impact gun at 150 psi and nothing happened...i just used a regular socket cuz i dont have a 19mm impact socket...would it work if i had a 19mm impact socket? how has anyone else removed the bolt with the engine in the car? i tried to find the crank bolt tool but it looks like that there isnt enough room between the sidewall the pulley for the tool to fit...i searched on here and all i found was to use the tool and an impact gun...so i dont know what else to do...any suggestions would help...

[bruno8747]

you have to remove the driver's side engine mount to allow the engine to drop down enough for you to get the crank pully tool in there. The crank pully tool is the easiest way to get it off or use a very long breaker bar. Also you are suppose to put a long screw driver in the service hole by the header, where there is a rubber plug. this will stop the enigne from turning.

[lucid]

In order to remove and install their crankshaft pulleys (with the motor in the car), Unorthodox Racing suggests having a helper put the transmission into 5th gear (harder to turn) and hold the brakes to keep the pulley/motor from turning.

[Blk EX Coupe]

When I did my timing belt my friend just blasted it with my ingersol rand impact gun and it came off like nothing. Before I had my impact gun and compressor I just took the cars to a local shop and paid the guy 20 bucks to take it off and retighten it just not as strong and we went home it took it off with a breaker bar.

[626cb7]

This tool make miracle just make sure to put a piece of belt so you don’t damage the pulley.

[immeraufdemhund]

i always put a big skrew driver on the bottom part of the fly wheel cause i could never get the skrew driver to stay from the top. This way i can do it by my self. You'll have to remove the access plate on the bottom of the tranny. If it's a 5spd it's just 3 10mm bolts. If it's auto you'll also have to remove the gear selector cable cover which is 3 more 12mm bolts. this way you dont have to remove the engine side mount. once i get the breaker bar on and the skrew driver pryed into place so it doesn't fall out i posistion my self to get my legs on the breaker bar and go to town sideways jumping. i have yet to get a crank bolt to not break free. And it would be recommended to get an impact socket for this cause i've snapped a couple of drivers and sockets taking that thing out. it's a pita, but you'll gitrdone.

[wed3k]

i took the timing inspection cover off and wedged a pry bar in there.

had the pry bar up against the head so it couldnt moved, 18" breaker bar with 19mm socket on bottom.

white holding the pry bar, i hopped up and down on the bar and it broke loose after the 6th hop.

but now i have a ingersol-rand impact gun and it blasts it right off

[timmy0tool]

the pulley removal tool i got from snap-on worked with the engine the in the car just fine. a breaker bar and a impact 19mm is all i needed. be sure to spray some lubricant to loosen the threads.



now finding that tool again will be a pain!

[owequitit]

the pulley removal tool i got from snap-on worked with the engine the in the car just fine. a breaker bar and a impact 19mm is all i needed. be sure to spray some lubricant to loosen the threads.



now finding that tool again will be a pain!

I wasn't going to say anything! LOL.

I figured nobody would want to pay the $65 or so for that tool, until after they had to replace the flywheel, or whatever else it is they are using to wedge something into...

The one carried by Snap-On is actually made by BluePoint, so you may want to mention that if you call around to see if a local truck has one.

Moroso also makes the same tool with a big long handle on it. They list it for Civics, but it will work on the Accords too.

The tool can be found here:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

The advantage of the BluePoint that Timmy and myself own is manueverability. You can change the way the breakerbar is attached so that you can get it to wedge against something like a crossmember fairly easily.

The advantage of the Moroso is that it isn't going to move around on you.

[lucid]

I got mine for about $40.00 from sjdiscounttools.com
It is made by Schley Products
P/N 60100

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sp60100.html

[maroonaccord2.2]

Considering I purchased a new impact gun for under $50 that took my crank bolt off just fine, I prefer to not use that tool. Btw, I do NOT reccomend using a torque wrench as a breaker bar for removal, unless you are re-torquing the bolt to spec. It'll throw the calibration of the torque wrench outta whack.

[cp[mike]]

i own the bluepoint one from snapon, including shipping it was like $80... paid for itself time and time again.

when i was at atx's house, we tried a huge belt strap wrench, his dad works with military aircraft and we figured that would work. it ended up tearing the thick belt in half...

[owequitit]

Considering I purchased a new impact gun for under $50 that took my crank bolt off just fine, I prefer to not use that tool. Btw, I do NOT reccomend using a torque wrench as a breaker bar for removal, unless you are re-torquing the bolt to spec. It'll throw the calibration of the torque wrench outta whack.

That strategy only works if you already have the compressor though...

Those aren't $50...and you need one capable of a fairly high flow rate at a fairly high pressure to get them off. The average home duty compressor may not be enough.

And yes, you should definitely not be using your torque wrench as a breaker bar... That is why they make breaker bars.