obd2 motor h22 type s issues

[h22sparkle]

okay I had a minor vacuum leak checked that sealed it off with some jbweld with the brake booster nipple valve got that done. I also noticed the ground wire was comin look from the transmission got that done. Now im having a little bit of issues first off im a little bit concerned about the obd2 stuff. Now first off here are some of my concerns

1 in an obd1 h22
OBDI 93-95 H22a

Layout
A1->A25--B1->B15--Blank--D1->D21
A2->A26--B2->B16--Blank--D2->D22


Pin---Color---------Desc.
A1----brn-----------Injector #1
A2----yel-----------Injector #4
A3----red1---------Injector #2
A4----grn/yel------VTEC Solenoid Valve
A5----blu-----------Injector #3
A6----or/wht-------HO2S heater coil
A7----grn/blk1-----PGM-FI Main Relay coil
A8----grn/blk2-----Shorted to A7
A9----blk/blu-------IAC Valve
A10
A11----red2--------EGR Control Solenoid
A12----blu/red-----Condenser Fan Relay
A13----blu/wht-----MIL
A14
A15----red/blu-----A/C Clutch Relay
A16----wht/grn-----Alternator
A17----pink---------IAB Solenoid Valve
A18----orn/red-----FAS (A/T)
A19----wht----------Intake Control Solenoid Valve
A20----red/grn-----EVAP Purge Control Solenoid
A21----yel/grn1----ICM
A22----yel/grn2----Shorted to A21
A23----blk1---------GND
A24----blk2---------GND
A25----yel/blk------PGM-FI Main Relay (power)
A26----blk/red------VTEC Pressure Switch (GND)

B1----yel/blk--------PGM-FI Main Relay (power)
B2----brn/blk-------GND
B3----orn1----------AFSA (A/T)
B4----pnk-----------AFSB (A/T)
B5----blu/blk--------To A/C Switch
B6
B7----lt grn---------ATP PN Gear Posisiton (A/T)
B8----red/grn-------PSP Switch
B9----blu/red-------Starter Cut Relay
B10---orn2----------VSS
B11---orn3----------CYP
B12---wht-----------CYP
B13---orn/blu-------TDC
B14---wht/blu-------TDC
B15---blu/grn-------CKP
B16--blu/yel--------CKP

D1----wht/yel-------Battery
D2----grn/wht1-----Brake Switch
D3----red/blu-------KS
D4----brn/wht------SCS
D5
D6----lt blu or lt grn-VTEC Pressure Switch
D7----lt grn/red----Data Link Connector
D8
D9----wht/red------ALT
D10---grn/blk------ELD
D11--red/blk-------TP Sensor
D12---wht/blk------EGR Valve Lift Sensor
D13---yel/blu-------ECT Sensor
D14---wht----------HO2S Sense
D15---red/yel------IAT Sensor
D16
D17---wht/blu------MAP Sensor
D18---lt grn/blk----VREF (A/T)
D19---red/wht------EGR Valve Lift Sensor
D20---yel/wht------TP Sensor
D21---blu/wht------MAP Sensor
D22---grn/wht2----TP Sensor

now heres obd2
OBDII H22a 96+

Layout
A1->A11----Blank--C1->C10---D1->D5
A12->A24--Blank--C11->C22--D6->D12
A25->A32--Blank--C23->C31--D13->D16

Pin---Color ---------Desc.
A1----yel------------Injector #4
A2----blu------------Injector #3
A3----red------------Injector #2
A4----brn------------Injector #1
A5----orn/blu-------Secondary O2 heater
A6----blk/wht-------HO2S heater
A7----orn------------EGR Control Solenoid Valve
A8----grn/yel-------VTEC Solenoid Valve
A9----brn/blk-------GND (dig)
A10---blk------------GND (power)
A11---yel/blk-------PGM-FI Power
A12---blk/blu-------Idle Air Control Valve
A13
A14
A15---red/yel-------Evap Purge Control Solenoid Valve
A16---grn/orn-------Fuel Pump Relay
A17---pnk/blu-------A/C Clutch Relay
A18---gry/red-------MIL
A19---wht/grn-------ALT
A20---yel/grn--------ICM
A21
A22---brn/blk--------GND (dig)
A23---blk------------GND (power)
A24---yel/blk--------PGM-FI Power
A25---wht-----------Intake Control Solenoid Valve
A26---red/blu-------IAB Control Solenoid Valve
A27---grn-----------Radiator Fan Relay
A28---grn/wht------EVAP Bypass Solenoid Valve
A29---orn/grn------Evap control cansiter vent shut valve
A30
A31-
A32-

C1---lt grn/blk------Ref. Voltage for ATTS or TCM (not used)
C2---blu------------CKP Detect
C3---grn------------TDCP Detect
C4---yel------------CKP Detect
C5---blu/orn-------A/C Switch Signal Input
C6---blu/red-------Starter Switch Input
C7---red/wht-------SCS
C8---lt grn ---------K Line (scan tool)
C9-- -
C10---wht/yel------ECM Backup Power
C11-- -
C12---wht----------CKP GND
C13---red----------TDC M Side
C14---blk----------CYP M Side
C15---blu/blk------VTEC Pressure Switch
C16---grn----------P/S Pressure Switch
C17---wht/grn-----ALT Detect signal
C18---blu/wht------VSS Signal
C19 -
C20 - -
C21 - -
C22---brn/yel------IMO Immobilizer Code Signal
C23- -
C24 - -
C25 - -
C26 - -
C27 - -
C28 - -
C29 - -
C30 - -
C31 - -

D1----red/blk----------TPS Detect
D2----red/wht---------ECT Engine Coolant Temp. Detect
D3----red/grn---------MAP Detect
D4----yel/red----------Vcc1 (Power for MAP)
D5----wht/blk----------BKSW Brake Switch Detect
D6----red/blu----------KS (Knock Sensor Detect)
D7----wht--------------HO2S Detect
D8----red/yel----------IAT Intake Air Temp Detect
D9----wht/blk----------EGR Valve Lift Sensor
D10---yel/blu----------Vcc2 (Provides Sensor Voltage)
D11---grn/blk----------SG2 (Sensor Ground)
D12---grn/wht---------SG1 (Sensor Ground)
D13- -
D14---wht/red---------SHO2S (Secondary O2 Sensor Detect)
D15---wht/blu---------PTANK (Detects fuel tank pressure signal)
D16---grn/red---------EL (Detects ELD Signal)

now heres the kicker the pinout for section a slot four is different for the obd1 and obd2 for the vtec solinoid. It says vtec for obd1 and for obd2 its for the injecotor 1 and the solinoid valve is on a8 instead of a4

now the second issue i have is for the iab's a17 for the obd1 and on obd2 its for the clutch relay hmmm and i get a egr valve code im not sure if i wired it wrong or if its the obd2 switch up in the pinouts an help from someone whos's obd2 i also have a slight misfire at idle after i run it hard i dont have a catylic converter and im runnin the same injectors that came with the motor. do i need to get the 345cc's basemodel injectors? oh and btw my vtec still activates too

[NAiL05]

What injectors are you running right now if i may ask? I dunno i could be wrong but doesnt the type S share the same injectors as the base model?

[h22sparkle]

no they dont the cc's are different and one is saturated the other is peak and hold. the obd2 injectors run less cc's than the obd1.

[NAiL05]

Im taking it your going back to OBD1 by the sound of it?

[h22sparkle]

I think i have a obd1

[h22sparkle]

Well ive recieved word that i may be using the obd1 ecu which i think i am or my car wouldnt start jsut by lookin at the pinout of the obd1-2 diagram. Last but not least imma buy some obd1 injectors but i already changed the clip for the injectors though but i had no choise because its not like i had injectors to lay up in the motor and i dare not mess with the type s motor with the stock accord lx injectors not thats playing with fire so i used the injectors that came with the motor the obd2 injectors.

[v4lu3s]

are you using the obd2 injectors with the resistor pack? or did you remove the resistor pack like you are supposed to with the 97+ prelude injectors?

[timmy0tool]

to my understanding aren't you supposed to convert to obd1 since your chassis is just that? if you are, then i aplogize.

convert the dizzy, wiring, ecu, etc to obd1 and you're set. easier said than done i know. good luck!

[cp[mike]]

id say just use obd1 injectors and distributor, use your stock harness, use an obd1 ecu, and only hook up the sensors that would be on an obd1 engine. anything extra just leave disconnected (like the TB mounted MAP, CPS, misc others). obd2 specs call for just extra new sensors, the actual motor is left the same... so hook it up like an OBD1 one, and itll act like it should...

[Jarrett]

Right, you're not gaining anything from a performance standpoint by using the OBD-II ECU and accessories, but I'm sure you know that. In my opinion it's just way more work for little to no gain at all as far as performance or driveability issues go. It's just more things to go bad and screw up down the line. Also, where did you get your engine from and can you buy just the head? Thanks.

[h22sparkle]

i brought some obd1 345cc injectors and now the car is acting like it should now and the ecu is obd1 problem fixed now it pulls even harder.

[NAiL05]

Glad to hear the problem is solved man. Have fun with that motor.

[v4lu3s]

heh i guess we now know what 22 ohms of injector resistance will do now

[h22sparkle]

heh i guess we now know what 22 ohms of injector resistance will do now

indeed

[PRIMOCB7]

i brought some obd1 345cc injectors and now the car is acting like it should now and the ecu is obd1 problem fixed now it pulls even harder.

say no more
good to hear its running.. and running right.