getting an H...

[shawn.hayden]

ok so its pretty much set that I'm gonn a buy an H, my plan is to buy a long block since they are cheaper, and go ahead and get a Header and a set of cams to throw on it.


is there anything else I'll really need? I already have the tranny I want is the main reason for the longblock idea... I know I'll need an ECU, but anything else I'm overlooking?


H22 btw just realized I never made that clear

[oneoffaccord]

ok so its pretty much set that I'm gonn a buy an H, my plan is to buy a long block since they are cheaper, and go ahead and get a Header and a set of cams to throw on it.


is there anything else I'll really need? I already have the tranny I want is the main reason for the longblock idea... I know I'll need an ECU, but anything else I'm overlooking?


H22 btw just realized I never made that clear

wiring, diaphrams for the ecu. if you retain p/s you wil have to momd the factory one or mod the h22 one.
timing belt, water pump, balancer shaft belt. new valve cover gasket. get all the tune up parts(plugs wires,cap,rotor) u are going to use your stock fuel rail. get a bigger pump (walbro are only 100 shipped) fuel pressure regulator, gauge this will help you tune it better. h22 use more fuel. the front cross member is going to be modded alil for the header. use you stock axles. thats pretty much it rightnow. wait are you auto or manual?

[wagalude]

Hey Shawn its Jody contact me we may be able to help you in the swap dept. we have some leads on motors

[phatdoughnut]

didnt even expect this from you shawn!

[Accord R33]

frickin noobs

[h22sparkle]

wiring, diaphrams for the ecu. if you retain p/s you wil have to momd the factory one or mod the h22 one.
timing belt, water pump, balancer shaft belt. new valve cover gasket. get all the tune up parts(plugs wires,cap,rotor) u are going to use your stock fuel rail. get a bigger pump (walbro are only 100 shipped) fuel pressure regulator, gauge this will help you tune it better. h22 use more fuel. the front cross member is going to be modded alil for the header. use you stock axles. thats pretty much it rightnow. wait are you auto or manual?

I doubt it I know that after you get your swap youll stay like this for awhile. you dont have to change your timing belt or water pump or balance shaft belt or valvecover gasket i call bullshit on that. I installed my h22 and never had to do anything. Not only that i ran the car hard and beat on the engine everyday.

Just give it a tuneup and get a stock ecu and youll be straight no real need for a pump but its optional. You can keep your stock fuel pressure regulator and as for tuning you dont really need to fine tune it its stock your not running any serious mods.The cross member doesnt need to be modded i call bullshit on that also the front crossmember can stay the way it is its justfine no moding needed. And you dont need anything else all you need is a little 3 long wires to wire it for vtec thats it dont let anyone else steer you wrong like these guys.

[PRIMOCB7]

only time the cross-member needs to be "notched" is if you get a header for the bb6(97-01) preludes. for some reason, the downpipe on the bb6 header hits the cross-member.. easy fix, but go with the bb4 header and you'll be fine.

[excalibur02]

maintance is always optional... its what the OWNER wants to do.

as for the header options. i have the jdm 93 h22 header with a usdm 99 sh downpipe, didnt have to notch my crossmember.

post pics!!

[aero]

maintance is always optional... its what the OWNER wants to do.

as for the header options. i have the jdm 93 h22 header with a usdm 99 sh downpipe, didnt have to notch my crossmember.

post pics!!

yeah, havent had to notch my crossmember at all, have a 2.5" downpipe, and its close now due to the morons at tires plus catching the tow hook on the lift, but still doesnt hit.

[oneoffaccord]

the reason why i said this cuz when my friend had his h22 in his accord he purchased a Greddy header and he had to notch it. sorry sparkle if you didnt do any maintence on ur motor everybody is different (well you on the other hand ) i was just saying that it a good thing to do all of this while the motor isnt installed yet. its not bull shit its called safe keeping.

[Big Body LX]

Exactly.. why not go ahead and change that stuff while the engine is out and it's easier to work on?

[Laguna7]

^^^No shit, besides HOW LONG DO THESE MOTORS SIT AT THE DOCS, CONTAINERS ECT.... My first SR20DET fucking water pump took a dump 7 days after I swapped the motor.. It's called doing shit the right way the first time.... Not bullshit...

[phatdoughnut]

i keep telling everyone, its better to wait and save up a lil extra so you can buy all the pars and maintain it before it goes in, than having to do it later. when its already in..

[cp[mike]]

not replacing the timing belts and water pump when putting in a used motor is completely stupid (in my opinion) ... i would much rather toss them on when everything is out in plain view and super easy to work on, and know i have at least 90k+ miles of peace of mind. most importers say an average of 30-40k on their motors, some are well over that... you never know, your H could have 100k on it, with the belts being just as old... then either when one breaks (or the wp dies) or you just decide its time to replace them, you have a much bigger job on your hands... leaving old original parts on your "new" motor is neglectful and asking for problems.

the way ive always looked at it, just because an H22 costs a certain amount after tax and whatnot for the motor, budget a good 500 or more for maintenance, you want that motor going into the car cleaned up and you want it to last as long as possible, do the maintenance and tuneup items!

[phatdoughnut]

^ yeah you might as well just take the Valve cover off and hit the internals with a mallet..