Hey just want to say thanks to all of you helped me through the whole swap, I think i've finally got it done. Wired up the new P13 today and it solved all the problems I had with the shitty P28. Vtec kicks in and stays in like it should, and I couldn't be happier. So yeah thanks to everyone who led me in the right direction I've learned a lot
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Vtec Problem No More!!
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Re: Vtec Problem No More!!
Originally posted by VtecFreak
Hey just want to say thanks to all of you helped me through the whole swap, I think i've finally got it done. Wired up the new P13 today and it solved all the problems I had with the shitty P28. Vtec kicks in and stays in like it should, and I couldn't be happier. So yeah thanks to everyone who led me in the right direction I've learned a lot
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well in my opinion I felt the same way about your situation vtec freak. In order to get your car runnin right you must have and formost the right computer for that engine to diagnose the problem a step further and it must be in good condition especially when it comes to electrical problems running etc. I know how you felt hell i had a fucked up automatic that was converted into a 5-speed i sent it back to steve at Hmotorsonline he saw my situation and gave me an actual 5-speed computer which = problem solved
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Yeah the difference between the two ecu's and how the car runs is beyond amazing, it pulls so much harder now with the P13. Who ever programed that P28 did an awfully shitty job, so for now I think I'll just stick with the P13 until I learn a little bit more about the P28 and what I can actually do with it.
Busted I do have one question though, I didn't wire up the IAB's yet becuase I didn't know exactly where the wire was supposed to go. If it's doesn't make a big difference then I won't worry about it but if it takes away from the engines performance not having it wired up then I want to make sure it's done right. I just need to know where the wire needs to be ran so I can put it on.
I'm going to be taking it through emissions tomorrow so hopefully I pass. I'm pretty confident I will now that my EGR valve isn't unplugged like it was the first time, guess I just forgot to plug it in when I put the motor in. Thanks again guys you've all been a big help to me, I appreciate it!
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It might not be black/yellow if the plug you used is not that color.
Im trying to figure out which one is positive and which one goes to the ECU.
Anyone have a good pic depicting what one should go to the ECU and what one goes to positive?
Does the ECU have a positive on it?
Where is a good spot to plug to a switched ignition positive?
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you know the plug that went to the old ignition coil... the two pins that you tie together, the blackyellow and yellow... that conection should be a switched +12v. thats what im using.
- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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Originally posted by deapost
Thanks bro
only concern i have w/ that is that the wires are thick which means alot of current is running through them.
Ive got them wired together, its ok to tap into it?
Thanks.
another place to get it is from the black/yellow wire of the two-pin plug coming from the distributor (thats where i originally had it)
- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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