Anyone have hard line diagrams?

[GreenMadness]

I was wondering if anyone knew where i could find like a .pdf or something of how all the factory lines are ran on an ex with 4 wheel disk and abs.

my abs has been out for a while so i am planning on fully removing it the correct way.

i.e. i am running custom hard lines to each of the wheels then removing all factory abs harware and lines (if i can find it all ).

i have tried searching not many people seemed to have much to say about abs at all. Please don't flame me or give me a lecture my cb7 is not my daily and i use it as a fun little track car / project and ridding myself of abs would drasticly reduce the time of my brake matinece.

[cp[mike]]

i removed all of the ABS components from my own car. if you pull out all of the engine bay lines lines minus the two main ones that lead to the rear of the car, you can swap all the lines & master cylinder in from a cb7 that didnt come with ABS. my lines came from a 91. youll also need a 4040 proportioning valve (92-95 civic si or 92-93 integra), its the right design to match up to the lines but its proportioned for 4 wheel discs.

i removed all the wiring and sensors for it as well, the computer is in the right side of the trunk behind the panel, and you can follow the wires from the sensors on the wheels and pull it all out.

[GreenMadness]

Thanks... i already located the computer and i had just lowerd the from frame brace to gain access to the pump.

I was planning on running an aftermarket master cylinder and after market adjustable brake proportioning valve.

Quick question for you, how much do the factory lines vary in length. From the research i have done, the hard lines dont have to be equal length between each side, (i.e. length of hard lines to Right Rear and Left Rear may vary 1-2''). The whole concept of brakes is to have an uncompressable liquid so distance is negligable. So as long as my rubber or stainless steel sections are equal length i should have even braking on right and left side correct?

[cp[mike]]

Thanks... i already located the computer and i had just lowerd the from frame brace to gain access to the pump.

I was planning on running an aftermarket master cylinder and after market adjustable brake proportioning valve.

Quick question for you, how much do the factory lines vary in length. From the research i have done, the hard lines dont have to be equal length between each side, (i.e. length of hard lines to Right Rear and Left Rear may vary 1-2''). The whole concept of brakes is to have an uncompressable liquid so distance is negligable. So as long as my rubber or stainless steel sections are equal length i should have even braking on right and left side correct?

i couldnt imagine why not. ive heard people ranting and raving about it being important about being equal length, but that goes completely against the technology/theory behind hydraulics. if its a solid line (unstretchable, at least) and has no air and has a non compressible liquid (hence the creation of brake fluid), theres no reason why one line couldnt be 5x longer than the other. even stock they are different lengths, the line to the front driver side wheel is maybe 1 foot max, the one to the front passenger side is maybe 3 feet. if youre going to go through the effort of using aftermarket parts and make custom lines, in the places where you need something flexible, use a SS braided line instead of a rubber one.

the non ABS brake line setup is very simple. two lines from MC to prop valve, and from there, one line to each wheel. if you still need a diagram i can probably get you one out of my helms manual.

[i97supratti]

The ABS master cylinder is 1" right, while the non-abs MC is smaller. So if you are going to be using custom lines, might as well try to keep your 1" ABS master cylinder and brake booster.

[GreenMadness]

The ABS master cylinder is 1" right, while the non-abs MC is smaller. So if you are going to be using custom lines, might as well try to keep your 1" ABS master cylinder and brake booster.

Sweet!... i was wondering about that. but i figured maybe the sizes wouldn't match up. that'll make things easier. i was thinking about setting up a jig to be able to produce the lines rather quickly with duplicates.

[cp[mike]]

The ABS master cylinder is 1" right, while the non-abs MC is smaller. So if you are going to be using custom lines, might as well try to keep your 1" ABS master cylinder and brake booster.

correct, i believe the non abs ones are 15/16". only issue is that the ABS master cylinders used a larger fitting on one side, which the non-abs lines wont match up to. i double-flared the proper fitting onto the new line, and used a prelude master cylinder

[areem57]

Why did you have to get a prelude m/c if you flarred the fitting on the line?

[jdm_inspired]

the non ABS brake line setup is very simple. two lines from MC to prop valve, and from there, one line to each wheel. if you still need a diagram i can probably get you one out of my helms manual.

So there's no actual order for the front 4 nozzles? Please clarify CP. Thanks bro. I'm over thinking my line arrangement is wrong.