so im doing a wire tuck and i want to get rid of the abs system im just wandering how hard it would be. i have a dx with no abs so if i can, would it be possible to to change the barke lines out with the dx lines and get a proportioning valve?
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how hard is it to delete the abs system?
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IIRC, it's said to be more of a pita than it's worth.
I still want to do it, in the meantime I relocated the abs relay box from under the hood, into the passenger floorboard near the ecu. Super easy, pretty sure I only had to cut one wire, pretty sure I didnt even extend it, think it just had to be cut to route the box easier. It's much cleaner, although you still have the huge abs doohicky lingering.
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all you need are the lines & master cylinder from your DX, and a 40-40 proportioning valve.
- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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Bare minimum, remove the IM, I did my ABS removal when I did my H/A6 IM install. I have not done a wire tuck, but I simply cut all the wiring back to the main harness bundle. Do not downgrade m/c and booster to LX/DX. Simply reflare the larger M12 ABS fitting to the non-ABS line. Tedious work overall, but worth it in the end
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not bad, and you don't need to change the master cylinder it has the same size threads, just a different fitting.
i made my own front lines, cut out all the old shit, and cut the ABS harness back at the firewall and pulled it into the passenger compartment.
used an integra 40/40 valve, a roll of brake line, summit double flare tool. it was a test of patience you have to think out the bends (or take off your old lines, and duplicate them) although if you don't have your engine out you are in for some fun trying to get lines in and out.Engines hate me... thats why they commit suicide
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^ very interesting, i knew the ABS MC was larger but i did not realize the gain was biased toward the rear. although i used a 40/40 i still have some agressive braking in the rear.
my alignment was off pretty bad, and i couldn't figure out how it was so bad to spin the car under braking, that would probably explain it.
either way with an alignment its almost dead even as to which tires lock (fronts a hare before rear..unless you really have the car loaded in braking then the backs will lock first)
*to the OP, i would strongly recommend some speed bleeders. when i got rid of ABS it was mainly for servicablility, i had a sensor get chewed up and want to get rid of the light and service my brakes. so i deleted ABS... and installed speed bleeders, single greatest mod to the car, it takes less than 15 mins to reach in and crack a line and slip a rubber hose over it.Last edited by GreenMadness; 11-24-2009, 11:05 AM.Engines hate me... thats why they commit suicide
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OP we deleted my friends abs with a hammer, just smash the computer with the said hammer then yank out the wires
They rise their wooden pints and they yoik and sing
And they fight and dance 'till the morning
Dont forget my MRT for my 1992 Honda Accord LX
Originally posted by deevergoteEverything in Japan is made with carbon fiber and used panties.
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