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News for cheap reliable piston options!

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    News for cheap reliable piston options!

    Just got off the phones it's arias Pistons and they do in fact make standard 85mm f22a Pistons!!!!!! What I asked and he said word for word. They are made at there shop to factory specs. Any compression ratio. And they will work with stock rods. It's a 5 week process and prices are around $660 and up. So in a nut shell all we have to do is separate stock rods from stock Pistons,swap to forged piston,light hone on stock sleeves, gap piston rings and put it all back together. Man that has to be the simplest build n/a or turbo ever!

    I wanted to share this with you guys because I know having a block bored out as well as haveing to dish out a extra 600-1000 for aftermarket rods is a pain. When now all you need is a ball home tool and drill as well as a micrometer. This legit saves you a few grand on a reliable street build.

    my new turbo build

    #2
    That's awesome!

    I actually know the son of the owner of Arias Pistons. Maybe I could talk to him and get a group buy going for these pistons; if there is enough interest.

    Comment


      #3
      Wiseco also carries a 85.0mm pistons. Just not in custom compression ratios.

      http://www.raceeng.com/c-3460-pistons-forged.aspx

      My machine shop won't bore a block without having the exact pistons that are going in the block. Reason being is 85mm or 85.5mm is not exact. If you have a true 85mm bore and a true 85mm piston they won't fit. Factor in wear and if/how much the cylinder was honed and you have a lot if variables. *Too many to just throw in some 85mm pistons.

      The machine shop I use get's the exact specs of each piston, numbers each piston for a specific hole, and bores and final hones each cylinder for each piston. Say one piston is 85.506 the cylinder won't be 85.506. It may be 85.510 or something similar.

      That's the reason why I won't use 85mm pistons. Maybe I'm wrong and it's overkill, Idk, but I feel I have a great machine shop and they are extremely reputable.

      *Entirely based on the words of my machine shop.

      EDIT... Also, something else to think about is the very top of the cylinder does not come in contact with the rings and therefore is not wore like the rest of the cylinder. This area needs to be machined in order to install new pistons or it may damage the rings upon installation. This comes standard with honing service.
      Last edited by H311RA151N; 04-02-2015, 07:53 PM.




      Comment


        #4
        o rly? cheap high compression f20b build!!

        YouTube Clicky!!

        Comment


          #5
          i would strongly consider these for my low-mileage F...


          - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
          - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
          - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
          - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
          - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
          - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
          - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
          - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
          Current cars:
          - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
          - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by H311RA151N View Post
            Wiseco also carries a 85.0mm pistons. Just not in custom compression ratios.

            http://www.raceeng.com/c-3460-pistons-forged.aspx

            My machine shop won't bore a block without having the exact pistons that are going in the block. Reason being is 85mm or 85.5mm is not exact. If you have a true 85mm bore and a true 85mm piston they won't fit. Factor in wear and if/how much the cylinder was honed and you have a lot if variables. *Too many to just throw in some 85mm pistons.

            The machine shop I use get's the exact specs of each piston, numbers each piston for a specific hole, and bores and final hones each cylinder for each piston. Say one piston is 85.506 the cylinder won't be 85.506. It may be 85.510 or something similar.

            That's the reason why I won't use 85mm pistons. Maybe I'm wrong and it's overkill, Idk, but I feel I have a great machine shop and they are extremely reputable.

            *Entirely based on the words of my machine shop.

            EDIT... Also, something else to think about is the very top of the cylinder does not come in contact with the rings and therefore is not wore like the rest of the cylinder. This area needs to be machined in order to install new pistons or it may damage the rings upon installation. This comes standard with honing service.
            There a way you can easily hone the block and take your over all measurement and give them the bore measures and have a custom piston made for the same price you are gonna pay for a .40 over or .20 over piston and still have to drop 300 or so for a bore. Eaither way for a little extra time and work you still save a lot of cash.

            my new turbo build

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 92smokeaccord View Post
              There a way you can easily hone the block and take your over all measurement and give them the bore measures and have a custom piston made for the same price you are gonna pay for a .40 over or .20 over piston and still have to drop 300 or so for a bore. Eaither way for a little extra time and work you still save a lot of cash.
              If they can do that then that's completely new to me. One would need to invest in a dial bore gauge in order to give proper measurements. A good one runs about a hundred and a half. I wouldn't trust this job to a micrometer. But I'm pretty meticulous.

              Bore and hone runs me $35 per hole. $140 for a 4 cylinder. But as you stated earlier, with other pistons you still have the issue of the rods. So the route you stated a person still comes out ahead. I'm glad you shared this! Shotpeen the rods with some ARP rod bolts and your set up real nice! And for pretty cheap too.

              This would be awesome for mild to moderate boost levels...




              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by H311RA151N View Post
                Shotpeen the rods with some ARP rod bolts and your set up real nice! And for pretty cheap too.

                This would be awesome for mild to moderate boost levels...
                Then a head refresh, and some port work. Would be a clean, simple, cheap build.


                - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                Current cars:
                - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by cp[mike] View Post
                  Then a head refresh, and some port work. Would be a clean, simple, cheap build.
                  Then a person could hunt down an Evo III turbo manifold, Evo III O2 housing and a 16g turbo and they would really be in business. To take it even further if the 16g had a 9.8 hotside you could find a 10.5 hostide to throw on it. A 16g can be rebuilt better than factory for around $60 as well. Right there your 300whp capable. And for dirt cheap.




                  Comment


                    #10
                    Here's my theory for a cheap 300+whp boosted setup.


                    All stock f22a6 with new gaskets and bearings $300

                    Aris custom 9:1 Pistons $660

                    Treadstone turbo kit $2094

                    Tools if you don't already have them (micrometer/ball hone)$200

                    Chipped ecu,dsm injectors and tune $700

                    Arm main and head studs/rod bolts 300$

                    Total in just over $4000. That's not bad. This is what I would do if I could start fresh.

                    my new turbo build

                    Comment


                      #11
                      DSM 450's won't support 300whp.

                      Bearings are $200 alone.

                      Water pump and timing is $85.

                      Lower gaskets are $90 and head gasket set is $145. (for non-crappy OEM)

                      I wouldn't reuse the head studs so ARP or at least replacement $65?-$145.

                      In order to use ARP main studs it's strongly recommended to line hone.

                      Treadstone kit is way overkill for 300whp. I hear people mention this kit but I wonder of anyone knows the specs on the Turbonetics turbocharger that's included. Only reason I know is because I asked. I guess not preferring this kit is more preference than anything although the Treadstone kit is in a way a waste of money.

                      As for F22A1/4/6 I don't see that it matters. You can make up the difference with a MBC. A6 intake manifold and 4b stamped A6 cam would be the only difference I see.

                      I came up with $3250 and that's with proper machining for H22 rods, Wiseco pistons, milled head, bore/hone, arp headstuds, oem bearings and gaskets, all FI parts, fuel supply and trans goods. I haven't figured it up with the custom Arias pistons yet but it will be even less.

                      And don't forget a clutch to hold the power. And without an LSD your just pissing in the wind. (kinda) Best clutch I have found for 300whp is the Competition Clutches Stage 3.

                      This is all to the best of my knowledge. I often ponder on the cheapest reliable FI build. I have a JDM F22B DOHC head to throw in the mix with adjustable AEM cam gears. So I imagine I could make more power at a significantly reduced boost level. Not that it matters for this discussion, just boasting. (not really)


                      This is a really good discussion!
                      Last edited by H311RA151N; 04-02-2015, 10:55 PM.




                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by H311RA151N View Post
                        DSM 450's won't support 300whp.

                        Bearings are $200 alone.

                        Water pump and timing is $85.

                        Lower gaskets are $90 and head gasket set is $145. (for non-crappy OEM)

                        I wouldn't reuse the head studs so ARP or at least replacement $65?-$145.

                        In order to use ARP main studs it's strongly recommended to line hone.

                        Treadstone kit is way overkill for 300whp. I hear people mention this kit but I wonder of anyone knows the specs on the Turbonetics turbocharger that's included. Only reason I know is because I asked. I guess not preferring this kit is more preference than anything although the Treadstone kit is in a way a waste of money.

                        As for F22A1/4/6 I don't see that it matters. You can make up the difference with a MBC. A6 intake manifold and 4b stamped A6 cam would be the only difference I see.

                        I came up with $3250 and that's with proper machining for H22 rods, Wiseco pistons, milled head, bore/hone, arp headstuds, oem bearings and gaskets, all FI parts, fuel supply and trans goods. I haven't figured it up with the custom Arias pistons yet but it will be even less.

                        And don't forget a clutch to hold the power. And without an LSD your just pissing in the wind. (kinda) Best clutch I have found for 300whp is the Competition Clutches Stage 3.

                        This is all to the best of my knowledge. I often ponder on the cheapest reliable FI build. I have a JDM F22B DOHC head to throw in the mix with adjustable AEM cam gears. So I imagine I could make more power at a significantly reduced boost level. Not that it matters for this discussion, just boasting. (not really)


                        This is a really good discussion!
                        I've heard good things about Treadstone, so they would be a very viable option at least for the AC/PS-compatible cast manifold, and the fitted piping/intercooler kit if you want to save a lot of fitment effort.

                        Call me stupid but what does MBC refer to?


                        - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                        - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                        - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                        - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                        - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                        - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                        Current cars:
                        - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                        - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by cp[mike] View Post
                          I've heard good things about Treadstone, so they would be a very viable option at least for the AC/PS-compatible cast manifold, and the fitted piping/intercooler kit if you want to save a lot of fitment effort.

                          Call me stupid but what does MBC refer to?
                          Oh no doubt it's a great kit. I just think DSM is the way to go in this instance.

                          Manual boost controller.




                          Comment


                            #14
                            Acl race bearings are $28...just bought them a week ago. Also main bearings are only $65 here. See here were you sorta win. The dsm setup is cheaper in areas. Here it would be cheaper to find a full kit then piece together a dsm set. And yes the 450cc won't do 300 more like 250. But I was referring to the 560cc dsm evos. Those are dime a dozen here for about 60-80. It's easy to find the t25 turbo to. But you would need atleast a 14b with 16g wheel or just straight 16g. Those are hard to find here and if you do find them they cost a pretty penny. Even blown they cost around 500.....

                            That's why I opted for the treadstone kit. Everything you need except. Injectors,fuel pump and ecu. And it has a 1year full warranty. T3 turbo with a/r 63 hot and a/r .5 cold. Perfect for up to 400whp

                            my new turbo build

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by 92smokeaccord View Post
                              Acl race bearings are $28...just bought them a week ago. Also main bearings are only $65 here. See here were you sorta win. The dsm setup is cheaper in areas. Here it would be cheaper to find a full kit then piece together a dsm set. And yes the 450cc won't do 300 more like 250. But I was referring to the 560cc dsm evos. Those are dime a dozen here for about 60-80. It's easy to find the t25 turbo to. But you would need atleast a 14b with 16g wheel or just straight 16g. Those are hard to find here and if you do find them they cost a pretty penny. Even blown they cost around 500.....

                              That's why I opted for the treadstone kit. Everything you need except. Injectors,fuel pump and ecu. And it has a 1year full warranty. T3 turbo with a/r 63 hot and a/r .5 cold. Perfect for up to 400whp
                              If you go ACL or anything other than OEM then the crank needs turned. There was a member not long ago try to use standard size bearings. He was wondering why he couldn't turn the rotating assembly by hand.

                              You can piece together a DSM kit for way under $2000. Everything included other than the downpipe it's right under $900. And thats not even going local, that's ebay. And that's all OEM DSM stuff. Good 16g's are $275-$350 on ebay. Rebuild it your self for $60ish.

                              Yeah the 560's would get you there. And they install just like 450's.

                              16g is the only DSM turbo I would suggest. I've seen some run a ported 14b but idk. Not really optimal. And never seen them break 300whp. Or come close for that matter.

                              That's odd, Treadstone told me I could pick any $750 Turbonetics turbo from their site in a T3/T4... Good thing I saved that email if I ever buy a kit off them. It's doubtful but w/e.




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