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Beginners Guide to Modification

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    Beginners Guide to Modification

    I have been trying to compile all the knowledge that may beginners are seeking, and to have all that information in one "stickied" thread. To accomplish this I have been working on gathering as much information both from this site and searching the internet for anything that isnt mentioned on this site. So here it goes. Hopefully this will help.

    More Power:

    One of the first questions people ask when they get involved in a "tuner" car performance is "What can I do to my car to make it faster/better looking?" or, if they have done any research already, "What should I do first?" These questions are asked over and over by new members of this site and then half answered by veteran members who have gotten tired of repeatedly answering these same questions. This therad's purpose is intended to give the whole answer to these commonly asked questions.

    Three Cornerstones of "tuner" Performance:

    The first thing people often want to do is increase the power of their car. The first steps in this process have been simplified down to three key elements: Intake, Header and Exhaust (often written as i/h/e on the bulletin board). These three areas are usually the first to be addressed when seeking improvements in performance. Japanese performance engines (and Honda/Acura engines in particular) are fairly well optimized for performance and making any changes to the internal engine components are relatively expensive and complex for a beginner to undertake themselves. The air intake and exhaust systems, conversely, are designed mainly to be functional, quiet and inexpensive to manufacture. Since these pedestrian concerns are low on the list of priorities for most of us that are looking for more power, there are significant gains that can be made in these areas without spending large sums of money.

    Fresh Air:

    The air intake system is made up of three key components: air filter, air box and related tubes. An air filter is used to remove harmful dirt particles from entering the engine and causing wear. The filter is made of a fire resistant material to prevent a fire in the intake manifold from getting out into the engine bay. The filter usually resides in an air box or canister. This shields the filter from the under hood heat, dirt and water. Air enters the system from outside the car near the fender or behind one of the head lights and enters the (usually) plastic pipe system. The air is taken from a location that is intended to exclude the hot air from under the hood. The air moves along the pipes into the air box where it is forced to pass through the air filter and then back out into more pipes that take the filtered air to the inlet side of the throttle body.

    The routing and shape of the pipes used to carry the air from the outside to the throttle body are often awkward and designed more to suppress sound. At higher rpms this intake can be restrictive and limit top end power. To help this, the air filter can be replaced by a high flow replacement filter like a K&N reusable filter or the entire intake system is replaced. A replacement intake usually is comprised of a smooth, large diameter pipe that takes a direct path from the throttle body to a location under the hood or in one of the fenders, where there is a source of cool air. At the end of the pipe a large high volume air filter is used to keep the incoming air clean.

    Key to getting more power from any engine is getting more air into and out of the engine. By allowing more air into the engine this modification can be responsible for a power increase on average of 0 to 5 horsepower and increases the amount of sound coming from under the hood.

    Exhaust Manifolds/Headers:

    The stock exhaust manifolds on most cars are designed to be simple and inexpensive. Cast from iron they are intended only to bring the exhaust gases from each cylinder together into one path so it can enter the exhaust system. While they do this job quietly and inexpensively, cast iron manifolds can be far from efficient performance wise.

    Exhaust manifolds (or headers) increase the performance of an engine by providing a smooth restriction free path for the exhaust gasses to follow. By getting more exhaust out of the engine, more air/fuel can be drawn in from the intake. Since exhaust air does not aid combustion and will not expand any further to push the piston down, any space in the cylinder taken up by exhaust gasses is wasted space (effectively reducing the engine displacement).

    Exhaust gasses exit an engine in pulses of pressure. This principal can be used by a properly designed header to scavenge the exhaust from the cylinders even more than if each exhaust tube simply exited to the atmosphere. These pressure waves that travel down the tube have a high pressure front and is followed by a low pressure area behind it. This low pressure area can be used to draw exhaust out of another cylinder by arranging for this low pressure area to arrive at the end of a tube for another cylinder that is just opening the exhaust port. In four cylinder engines the tri-y design (where no more than two tubes join at a measured distance from the engine) is used to take advantage of this principal. Headers designed for higher rpm performance may use a more simpler four into one design with longer pipe lengths. Pipe diameter also has a big impact on the performance characteristics of the header.

    A tubular exhaust header can have a significant impact on power (7 to 13 horsepower), but comes at the expense of increased noise. Tubular exhaust headers are also often responsible for improved fuel economy. However, they are more difficult to install and far more costly than an intake system.

    Exhaust:

    The exhaust system is often the first thing that car enthusiasts like to change on their car and has the biggest impact on the look and sound of the car. Intakes and headers are hidden away under the hood, but the shiny stainless muffler and big exhaust tip are seen by everyone. This is often where there is the most to choose from. There are literally hundreds of exhaust tips to choose from and many mufflers. The nature of the exhaust system is also such that many different mufflers can be used on many different cars.

    When changing your exhaust system there is two routes you can take. There are companies that market complete cat-back (from the catalytic converter to the tail pipe) systems. These systems are usually legal for use in states with strict pollution and sound laws and they can often be installed without any special tools. You can also choose to go the custom route by choosing a muffler and tip and having it custom installed by a muffler shop who can mandrel bend tubing to suite your car. This method is often less expensive than an off the shelf system and provides much more choice and flexibility. Custom systems are often louder than commercial systems. Complete systems are designed to meet stringent sound standards and are often quieter than systems built from universal components.

    In either case it is best to select components made from stainless steel. While not as important in Southern states, in the Northern states and Canada winter and road salt can rapidly deteriorate your exhaust system. When paying a premium for high performance and/or custom components you want them to last as long as possible. It is not often done, but many shops that custom fabricate exhaust systems will create a full stainless system. The cost of stainless pipe is more than standard mild steel, but not so high that it is not worth paying the premium. If one shop refuses to use stainless steel pipe then you might consider thanking him/her for their time and moving on to the next shop.

    Much has been said about the correct pipe diameter and the need for back pressure to keep from losing torque in small import engines. While the debate has never been conclusively resolved from a scientific standpoint, experience has proven that oversized pipes on small engines do cause a loss of torque. On small (1.6 Litre to 2.4 Litre) four cylinder engines most agree that 2.25 inch pipe is the best size to use. In engines with forced induction (turbos, superchargers) then 2.5 inch pipe is good.

    Customizing the exhaust of your car will certainly result in a louder exhaust note (which is often the primary goal for the customization) and by making the exhaust more efficient can result in a 5 to 7 horsepower increase on average. Replacing the catalytic converter with a high flow design can also increase this number up to 10 horsepower. Much like the header, a high efficincy exhaust system can also be responsible for a minor increase in fuel economy.

    Additional Bolt-ons:

    While the Intake/Header/Exhaust combination are certainly the most popular modifications there are other bolt-on modifications that create more power. High power and/or multiple spark ignition systems, while not creating a great deal of power on their own, can be responsible for a noticable power increase in slightly modified engines. Adjustable camshaft sprockets are also a popular upgrade for people looking to optimize the torque and horspower curve for their engine. The camshaft timing is set by the factory to provide a smooth and fuel efficient compromise for the engine. By adjusting the timing of the camshafts both in relationship to the crank shaft and relative to each other (in DOHC engines) large gains can be made at certain parts of the rev range (i.e. more top end horsepower at the expense of a little low end torque). There are many other bolt-on methods that may produce power increases but none of them should be attempted unless the intitial intake/header/exhaust modifications have been considered.

    KEEP READING.. Continued Below...
    Last edited by MadSpleen85; 01-09-2007, 04:29 PM.

    #2
    Continued

    Suspension & Brake Basics:

    Now that you have tweaked some extra power out of your engine, it is time to look at the parts that help you put that power to the ground. Altering the suspension for performance and aesthetics is right at the top of most import enthusiasts' wish list. This often includes new wheels, tires and a change in ride height. More performance savvy drivers put high performance shocks, anti-roll bars and performance brake upgrades on that list as well.

    Wheels, Tires and Plus Sizing:

    Probably the most visually obvious change to the appearance of a car is custom aluminum alloy wheels. There is a dizzying selection of custom wheels that can be added to replace the, often mundane, stock wheels.

    Most people who opt for new wheels select rims with a larger than stock rim diameter. Referred to as plus sizing, rims may be selected that are one, two and sometimes three inches larger than the stock rim diameter. A 17-inch wheel is the largest "practical" wheel for Honda cars. Hondas can accommodate 18 inch wheels, but the 17-inch wheel is still far more popular.

    The actual wheel diameter selected is a matter of personal preference, but the conditions under which the car is driven should be considered. In regions where the roads are in rough condition, or if you have a problem with striking curbs occasionally, then a 17-inch wheel may be a bad choice. If you are planning on racing, live in an area with good roads and/or plan on showing your car at car shows, then a 17-inch wheel would be perfectly appropriate. Be forewarned though, as rim diameter increases, the costs of both rims and tires increases substantially.

    A common question that arises when discussing plus sizing is the concern over larger diameter rims causing the tires to rub the fenders. The goal of plus sizing is to increase the size of the rim while decreasing the height of the tire sidewall (profile), such that the overall tire diameter does not change. This ensures that the wheel will have the same clearance as the stock wheel and the speedometer will not need to be recalibrated to read correctly. The difference in tire height is achieved by selecting a tire with the same (or slightly larger) width but a lower aspect ratio. Tire widths are measured in millimeters. The actual width will vary depending on tire manufacturer and tire brand, but in general the tread width is around the given size. The aspect ratio is given as the second number in the tire specification. In this case, the 65 indicates that the sidewall height of the tire is 65% of the section width (126.75 mm). Since the aspect ratio is a function of the tire width, the aspect ratio cannot be the sole indicator of sidewall height. Increasing the section width of the tire and lowering the aspect ratio can result in a tire with the same sidewall height. Many people mistakenly assume that a lower aspect ratio means a lower profile tire. However, if a tire with an aspect ratio of 55, for example, is substantially wider than another tire with an aspect ration of 60, is slarger then that is not necessarily true.

    When plus sizing the goal is to select tires with a lower aspect ratio, but with the same (or slightly larger) width and a larger rim diameter. For example, a stock wheel/tire size of 195/65 R 14 can be replaced by a 205/45 R 16 (plus two) and maintain the exact same overall wheel diameter. Similarly, a 205/40 R 17 is the correct plus three size.

    Aside from the obvious aesthetic improvement, the low profile tire provides much more responsive handling.

    Springs:

    Another popular trend in customizing the appearance of a car is to lower the ride height. This may be done for a variety of purposes. Many do it purely for appearance sake. Stock ride height is intended to prevent the car from bottoming in a variety of "worst case" scenarios. This often results in large gaps between the fender openings and the tires. Lowering the car gives it a more aggressive, racecar like stance that fans of import and performance cars find much more appealing.

    Another goal for lowering ride height is to improve handling performance. Lowering the ride height serves to lower the center of gravity, which can have a dramatic impact on cornering and braking performance.

    Lowering the car is most often accomplished by changing the springs on the car. Aftermarket springs typically lower the ride height from 1 to 2.5 inches and increases the spring rate (stiffness of the spring) to improve handling. The spring rate is increased either by reducing the number of coils in the spring or by using a heavier wire in the construction of the spring.

    Often people try to lower their ride height by cutting coils from their stock springs. This trick has been used to lower cars for years, but it is not a recommended practice. As mentioned above, reducing the number of coils increases the spring rate. By cutting the spring you effectively increase the spring rate, but the new spring rate cannot be predicted and probably won't be correct for the new ride height. For a car that is only used for daily driving and cruising around town the effect of this is usually minimal, but in a performance driving or racing environment cutting the springs is considered heresy.

    Shock Absorbers:

    When lowering a car with a set of performance springs, the natural progression is to install a new set of performance shock absorbers at the same time. The shock absorber's job is to control the motion of the spring. When you replace the spring with a stiffer spring the shock may no longer have sufficient enough dampening to control the spring. People who replace the springs without a stiffer set of shocks often complain of a bouncy ride.

    Alignment Issues:

    A side effect of lowering your car is the wheel alignment is changed. The greater the change in ride height, the more drastic the change in alignment. There is usually a small change it toe, and a larger change in camber. The camber change for a moderate change in ride height is usually not drastic and can often be corrected using the stock alignment adjustment. For more aggressive changes in ride height, some sort of camber correction device may be necessary to return the car to OEM specifications.

    Sway Bars:

    A less popular modification to the suspension is to change one or both of the stock sway bars (also know as anti-roll bars). The sway bars are designed to increase the roll stiffness (the chassis' resistance to leaning to one side or the other) of the car. The sway bars increase the roll stiffness by offering no resistance to the motion of both control arms in the same direction (the bar just hinges up and down), but when one arm tries to move independently of the other it must twist the bar to do so. The stock bars are a compromise between ride comfort, compliance and keeping the handling balance on the side of understeer (considered safer for street cars and uninitiated drivers with suspect skills). While just the front or just the rear bar can be changed, aftermarket sway bars are usually designed to work as a pair to make the handling neutral. Typically the rear roll stiffness is increased more than the front. By increasing the rear roll stiffness, the stock tendency to understeer can be dialed out so the car handles more neutral.

    High Performance Braking:

    Now that you have increased the power and handling of your car, you must also give some consideration to making sure you can stop your car. Properly maintained stock brakes are adequate for normal everyday driving, and Honda brakes are better than some, but for more spirited driving and occasional race track excursions the stock brakes may need a little help. Other than a good quality brake fluid, basic braking improvements are usually made at three points.

    Braided stainless steel brake flex lines are often used to replace the stock rubber flex lines. When stepping on the brake pedal the pressure in the brake system is extremely high. Under this high pressure the rubber flex lines may have a tendency to expand. This results in a slightly soft or spongy brake pedal. With the braided stainless lines that expansion does not occur. This results in a firmer pedal and much better feedback from the brakes.

    High performance brake pads are also a good way to increase brake power and fade resistance. Semi-metallic, metallic and carbon fiber composite pads are popular. These pads are far more resistant to heat and provide better pad friction. At the extreme end of the performance brake pad market are racing pads. These pads are made of materials designed to handle extreme temperature conditions without fading. These pads are not necessarily practical for street driven cars though. These pads typically do not provide much braking effort until they are hot. Under normal street driving conditions there is never enough heat generated to get sufficient braking effort.

    Still more to be Continued Below...
    Last edited by MadSpleen85; 01-09-2007, 04:29 PM.

    Comment


      #3
      Continued

      Stock brake rotors can substituted for a high performance rotor that is either cross-drilled, slotted or both. Cross-drilled rotors use a pattern drilled into the rotor braking surface. This serves several purposes. It creates more rotor surface area, which increases the rate of heat dissipation. It also releases gasses created by the brake pad at extreme temperatures. These gasses can hold the brake pads away from the rotor surface and reduce brake effort. The holes also sweep the surface of the pad to keep it clean. One drawback is the holes decrease the surface area where the pad contacts the rotor. Also, rotors of substandard quality can be prone to cracking.

      Slotted rotors accomplish many of the same goals of cross-drilled rotors but do so with a slot etched into the surface of the rotor. This negates the problem of rotor cracking, but still maintains the benefits of pad cleaning and allowing the gasses to escape. Slotted rotors also typically give up less contact area than cross-drilled rotors do.

      In some extreme cases there are rotors that incorporate both options. The choice between cross-drilled and slotted rotors is mostly a matter of personal choice, since both do a good job of increasing the brake's fade resistance. The slotted rotors are great insurance against cracking. Though, from an aesthetic perspective there is no denying the appeal of a set of cross-drilled rotors inside a large open aluminum racing wheel.

      There is an unending trail of development and performance upgrades you can perform. This write up will simply give you somewhere to start, and help you avoid costly mistakes. Key to this process is a comprehensive, well-researched plan.
      Good luck. and hopefully my research will save you some time and money. Later

      Comment


        #4
        Very good my man!

        Props to you dood!!



        Hopefully this answers most of the questions the newbies have.....but i fear they wont read....


        vote to make this a sticky!!

        Comment


          #5
          Yeah this is one of those things that I have been working on putting together whenever I have some spare time. I tried to keep it as to the point as I could so that the beginners would take the time to read it and get the information that they need instead of asking the same questions over and over again. That and I have been trying to think of something that I could do that would be worthy of a "sticky".. Later
          Last edited by MadSpleen85; 01-09-2007, 04:16 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by MadSpleen85
            Yeah this is one of those things that I have been working on putting together whenever I have some spare time. I tried to keep it as to the point as I could so that the beginners would take the time to read it and get the information that they need instead of asking the same questions over and over again. That and I have been trying to think of something that I could do that would be worthy of a "sticky".. Later

            yea no doubt son!! You wrote it well and clearly!!

            How long did it take you in total?

            Comment


              #7
              I have been working on this for a good part of two weeks. I checked and rechecked the info to make sure it was accurate before I included it.


              EDIT: I just looked at word count and there are 7 pages and 3,504 words total. Later
              Last edited by MadSpleen85; 01-09-2007, 04:24 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                true thats not too bad i guess...sticky icky icky!

                Comment


                  #9
                  formatted for easier reading. stickied. good job sir.


                  - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                  - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                  - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                  - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                  - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                  - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                  - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                  - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                  Current cars:
                  - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                  - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by cp[mike]
                    formatted for easier reading. stickied. good job sir.
                    Yeah I had it set up like that in word but the formatting didnt transfer and I hadnt got to that yet... Woo-hoo finally got my STICKY! Later

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I Learned MORE

                      Originally posted by kc8enb07
                      does it come w/ jdm trash? they better throw away gold in it

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Cb7GHOST
                        I Learned MORE
                        Very good to hear it is helping already. If anyone can think of anything that I missed please let me know and I will add it. Later

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Very well written.
                          The OFFICIAL how to add me to your ignore list thread!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I never realized the issue with the exhaust piping diameter on small engines... it makes sense that a loss in backpressure would result in a loss of torque... but it never crossed my mind. Thanks for the info.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              that was an awsome write-up you hit pretty much every aspect that a newb needs to start building their car and you gave good reasoing behind each topic which will help understand the logic behind each part three humbs up

                              current cb 93 10th ann. edition

                              member ride thread >>> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...73#post3257973

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