how to install ebay resistor/chip

[borisdookie7]

hey guys, i know everyone says that they dont work and just waste gas, but i already got it and want to try it out, i couldnt find out how to install it on google, i also searched about it here b4 i made this post, thanks guys

[ExplodingCake]

waht?? are those like the 20+ HP chip??

[NYKnick1015]

if u got what i think u got... it solders somewhere inthe ecu... i dont kno exactly where but somewhere in there, i never tried those cuz im not tryin 2 fuk up my ecu jus yet... if u get it 2 work and see improvement, let us kno

[Gen4Acclude]

do not put that pieace of shit in your car it will fuck ur motor up my making it to rich and washing the rings out till you suck a ring

[cp[mike]]

the socket that it goes into is located inside of the nearest trash receptacle.

the descriptions are vague, but if its what i think it is, its a resistor that you basically connect in place of the intake air temp sensor. it makes the ecu think the air is colder, which in turn would make it run richer. which doesnt make you go faster, its just a waste of gas.

dont waste a cent on it.

[BustedLX]

Listen... your vehicle uses various sensors to properly control the air to fuel ratio going into your engines combustion chamber. One of those various sensors is the IAT (Intake air temperature) sensor.

The purpose of that sensor is to properly adjust the ratio of air to fuel in different temperatures. When it is really cold outside air is denser so more fuel is required to offset the amount of air molecules entering the combustion chamber. This helps keep the burn efficient.

Introducing that resistor changes the value of resistance read by the ECU making it believe the ambient temperature is colder then it really is. So to preserve the engine and produce an efficient burn the computer will dump more fuel into the mixture.

It’s really not a good idea but if you still wish to do it install it on either of the IAT sensors wires. The IAT sensor is located on the left side of the intake manifold near the base if I remember correctly on the OE mani.

[NAiL05]

Sell it before you throw it in your car. Everyone basically covered the rest.

[borisdookie7]

thats good 2 kno, so is there any other cheap ways to make my car a little faster besides an intake and exhaust? and you know how on the intake manifold there is like 5 small tubes held together by a piece of plastic? the tube that came with the intake wasnt long enough so now it pinches the 1st tube(top one) and on the right side of the engine it goes to something the size of a dollar coin that says up, is this bad for the engine?

[borisdookie7]

o yea and my car is an automatic

[deevergote]

There are no quick fixes... And other than the basic bolt-on mods, the next nearly affordable things often require a little more in preparation (a cam, for example, would benefit greatly from dyno tuning, as the car won't run properly with the stock ECU... so that means a chipped P06 or similar, or a standalone... and dyno time.)

Cheap I/H/E won't do too much. Spend the money for good parts (with the proper diameters and quality bends) and you'll see the best gains possible.

After intake, header, and exhaust, you can look into lightweight pulleys. Accessory pulleys are good (as long as you aren't running heavy electronics), and a crank pulley is debatable (I personally like mine, and have been running it for years now). Don't buy cheap pullies though. Spend the money for AEM or Unorthodox Racing.

A high flow catalytic converter, like the ones offered by SMSP, can also free up some power (even though my car is not emissions compliant, I still try my best to keep from polluting! I won't run without a cat on the streets!)

After doing the basic bolt-ons, the car could still benefit greatly from tuning. It's been my experience that I/H/E causes a fairly rich situation. Leaning that out will save gas, keep your bumper clean, and allow for a bit more power and response.

The next most affordable option would be nitrous. $600 for a Zex dry kit is decent, and a 50-75 shot is pretty safe on good gas with the proper spark plugs. The only downside is that it isn't full-time power... and it does run out.


A Delta cam regrind, or a cam from Bisimoto, can unleash some power... but as I mentioned above, the car won't run to it's greatest potential without being tuned. If you're going to tune, might as well get an ajdustible cam gear as well (Busted doesn't like them, if I recall... ) I've heard that the Delta 260 cam is better suited to automatic than the popular 272. I've never experienced either, myself. (funny, because I owned a 272... )


The cheapest way to make your car a bit faster is to drop some weight. You won't gain any power, but you'll make better use of the power that you have. If you can bear to yank your AC (completely), you can shave off about 80lbs. Power steering, cruise control, spare tire, interior stuff, stock metal parts that can be replaced with lightweight stuff... I know of many a CB7 that's running at a 2500-2600lb curb weight. I believe kentucky_accord went totally buck nutty and has his car around 1800lbs! I don't think it's much good for street driving though.


The H22 swap is still the most reliable and cost effective way to add a significant amount of full time power.

[borisdookie7]

lol damn good info thanks deevergote, i just ordered a test pipe off ebay for about 40 shipped, i guess ill just save the rest of my money for an h22 and a manual tranny, wgerhgjkhw I HATE CALIFORNIA!! we have the stricktest emissions in the US, gotta be careful not to get pulled over with a test pipe, 1500$ and impound your car, lookin to get a ninja zx6r in october