I decided to add something informational to the post I'm sure this has been asked or talked about before but new people might want to read it. About a month and a half ago I replaced my clutch and I decided it was time to replace the flywheel to because of all the chatter I was getting. I bought an XTD 12lb flywheel and stage 1 disc for around 250 shipped and I highly recommend it the stage one clutch was basicly what you would get from the parts store but its good for around 290hp and It has very smooth engagement but the flywheel is whats exciting. Some places carry 8lb flywheels its not recommeded my 12lb is perfect and compared the the heavy ass stock unit you will be impressed especially 2nd gear at low rpm.
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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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Light weight flywheel
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Yes good information. I was thinking abou lightning the flywheel on my Nissan but I was told by an ass of people that it would mess up my inertia factor and I wouldnt be able to coast and I would have to learn to drive it all over again. I wouldnt recommend it if you carry people around all the time because (dont know from facts) im sure it will jerk alot.
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My brother put the XTD stage2 (kevlar composite) in his '97 Prelude and I am about to install my XTD stage1 and flywheel with my H23 Accord swap. The (12lb) XTD flywheel is Chro-Moly (think impact sockets and rollcages), which is supposed to be stronger than both the aftermarket (7-9lb) Aluminum ones, and the stock (17-20lb?) which I think is iron. I had read some reviews of the aluminum flywheels where owners were talking about losing driveability because they lost momentum from weight- making it harder to climb a hill or start from a stop without stalling, plus aluminum seems like a wimpy material choice when you could go light AND strong. Plus how could you go wrong with a performance clutch kit and flywheel delivered for less than $250? One thing I did think was strange is that the XTD flywheel had a new pilot bearing in it, but the STOCK flywheel doesn't use a bearing. I am not 1/4 mile racing my foor door, I go up hills, down and around turns and down the highway, driveability and torquiness are important, even if they're not both actual words.
The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
PM me and get it done right!
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I saw the bearing to but you have to think that same flywheel is for preludes and acura cl's. On the inertia thing my 12lb didnt effect it at all it actualy helped take off and driveability even with a car load and as for coasting you do that in neutral so how far you coast depends on the weight of the car. In a standard if you not accellerating then your decellerating but yes when in gear you will slow down faster but that just means when your speeding and you see a cop you wont have to slam on the breaks but yeah the XTD flywheel or any light weight flywheel makes a huge difference in performance.
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Originally posted by kricketbut yes when in gear you will slow down faster but that just means when your speeding and you see a cop you wont have to slam on the breaks
Sums it up right there. Now I'm not one to go rediculous speeds and try to get away with it but there are some times I've seen a cop and would like to slow down a little bit just in case he's looking for anyone going 2 over.
You know these cops keep trying to catch me riding dirty.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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That's cool. I like to slam the brakes, my car's legal and cops can get the gonads, so I'm stupid about it. They don't run radar all the time, I just stomp the brakes, give a glare in case he's looking, then completely ignore the bastard. It's like saying "Oops, shit, okay, WHAT?". If he does pull you over, and he asks you if you know why he stopped you, tell him "because I LET you". Maybe you shouldn't listen to me about this, the lady at the insurance place said my record reads like a book Thanks for the clarity on the bearing issue. Does anyone actually put marks on the aftermarket flywheel for TDC, etc., or do they come with that? Mine's in a box at the garage and I haven't checked it out that closely.
The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
PM me and get it done right!
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Cops aside, a 12lb wheel is good for a daily w/ a full faced clutch. You can also drive with a 6 puck or some such, just be ready for the chatter and harsh engagement. As to cromoly vs. aluminum, it doesn't really matter as the AL wheels use steel replaceable faces.
Also, you get used to driving a 8lb flywheel. My silver DA teg had a 8lb flywheel and 6puck. You get used to the engagement point and change your driving accordingly - you do this each car you get in to. If I can survive driving in Atlanta traffic, you can, too.I am the wrath of the server you curse and the demon of the directory you cry about - making life hell for users, one deleted file at a time.
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When I got my flywheel there were no marks for TDC. Nere the center on both of them theres a small hole. You have to match that hole up with the pin on the crank. So I put the flywheels next to each other lined up that small hole and made my marks for TDC on the same teeth as the stock flywheel. To make the marks I used a paint pen.
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I have heard that our stock flywheel weights around 17lbs so a 5lbs loss would be a very noticable gain.. Other than that I have also been told that if you go any less in weight such as an 8lbs flywheel that it would be a very annoying daily driver.. Mostly because unless your building a road course car or a track car its not worth going any less than 12lbs.(\__/)
(O.o )
(> < ) This is Bunny. He will eat your face.
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I was the guinea pig for the XTD stage 1 clutch and 12lb flywheel almost a year ago. So far it's still holding up pretty well. However, I was able to burn up the disc pretty well at the track last month. Mostly from not letting it cool down. If you plan on building up an NA motor, go stage 2. Anyway, yes you will get a lot more chatter if you let it out too slowly, or get caught in traffic. No, you won't have any problems going up hill, idling, or hauling people aroundOriginally posted by DoctorCipher...the beginner forum was created to provide a place for all the stupid ass questions to pile up and fester, kind of like huge globs of mayonnaise left in the sun for weeks at a time.
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I've been driving a F1 racing stage 2 carbon kevlar steel clutch and fidanza 8lb flywheel in my car since winter. The catter finally went away last month after about 1000 miles. yay! The flywheel has 1050 carbon moly steel plates mounted to aluminum. No timing marks. I forgot to remove the pilot bearing before I installed it. It's great! quick revs, and coating isn't all that bad. I didnt notice a major difference though. Small differences, yes, but its just a flywheel! its not going to change your car significant unless your old one was cracked or something. I dont know about coasting down speed, but at intersections I usually keep up with the car coasting in front of me or need to brake so its not like the 8lb vs. the 12lb is going to make your car undrivable. I'd advise get whichever one you get the best deal on.
hold on to your butts
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i love the 8lb, i daily drive it every day and i dont have any issues in the city.
great upgrade IMO.
- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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