Announcement

Collapse
1 of 2 < >

ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2 < >

Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less

Misc. Questions thread

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Misc. Questions thread

    Figured we could use one of these insead of starting a new topic everytime someone comes up with a question. So I got a few right off the bat

    how hard is it to remove/reinstall the side moldings on a 1992 DX?
    When opening the door for the first time I noticed that the door pushed in really easy right around the door handle and the the lock is very stubborn to work, is this normal?
    1992 Honda Accord DX
    Coupe 5spd
    2.2 liter I-4 (code: F22a1)
    125hp @5200 rpm 137 lb/ft @4000 rpm

    (\__/)
    (O.o )
    (> < ) This is Bunny. Copy Bunny into your signature to help him on his way to world domination!

    #2
    is this DX a 2 or 4 door? there is a big screw that goes into that handle if you look in the pocket there is a cap, pull the cap off and see if the screw is there.

    i dunno about the mouldings?

    someone has probly been in there before. is it the outside lock or inside, outside is normal for the key to not work. inside will have to be lubricated if its not working
    turboed cb7 baby

    Comment


      #3
      its a 1992 DX coupe. The questions about the door are all from the outside. When inserting the key the area around and including, the handle, flopped in a little. This doesn't happen on the 1993 Buick I have. Also, when trying to relock the door from the inside, the inside twity bit didn't work at all. Pushed it to where the door should have locked but no dice. Had to close the door and use the key to relock it up
      1992 Honda Accord DX
      Coupe 5spd
      2.2 liter I-4 (code: F22a1)
      125hp @5200 rpm 137 lb/ft @4000 rpm

      (\__/)
      (O.o )
      (> < ) This is Bunny. Copy Bunny into your signature to help him on his way to world domination!

      Comment


        #4
        driver door will not lock if its open... will only lock if you have the door handle pulled out all the way, its to prevent you from locking your keys in the car...

        as for the door popping in, id say its probably because of the large coupe door, the handle is mounted in such a wide open area of sheet metal, easy to pop in, especially if the key takes some force to push into the lock... try lubing the lock with some graphite powder, maybe make the key slide in easier so the panel doesnt pop anymore...


        - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
        - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
        - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
        - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
        - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
        - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
        Current cars:
        - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
        - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by cp[mike]
          driver door will not lock if its open... will only lock if you have the door handle pulled out all the way, its to prevent you from locking your keys in the car...

          as for the door popping in, id say its probably because of the large coupe door, the handle is mounted in such a wide open area of sheet metal, easy to pop in, especially if the key takes some force to push into the lock... try lubing the lock with some graphite powder, maybe make the key slide in easier so the panel doesnt pop anymore...
          that makes complete sense now thanks.
          My current car has an air conditioner and heater that really sucks. How good are the climate control systems in the CB7? Also, I'm leaning towards an H23 or F22a6 head swap. From what I understand, the F22a1 is a SOHC and the a6 and H23 are DOHC. My current car is a 1993 Buick Skylark with a 3.3L engine. Its a pushrod engine so my question is, is it gonna be a problem going from a SOHC head to a DOHC head? I know I will need to get an ECU at a minimum but I'm also gonna go for the H23 intake manifold, what else will i need besides gaskets and stuff like that. While I'm at it and I understand that the a4 Header is the best design of all the F22aX designs, is this true?
          1992 Honda Accord DX
          Coupe 5spd
          2.2 liter I-4 (code: F22a1)
          125hp @5200 rpm 137 lb/ft @4000 rpm

          (\__/)
          (O.o )
          (> < ) This is Bunny. Copy Bunny into your signature to help him on his way to world domination!

          Comment


            #6
            i think the cb7 a/c is pretty good compared to other cars ive driven... heat gets hot, AC gets cold, and the blower blows pretty strong

            all F22A# are SOHC, the only differences were the header, intake mani, camshaft, and ECU. upgrading from the A1 to the A6 is far from worth the work in my opinion, if you really want to upgrade, just do the cam and/or intake manifold. the h23 is the DOHC, which is just about the same as the JDM F22B... either head fits onto the block without any major issues, for the most part it directly bolts on. i believe youll need to do some matching of timing belt parts, like the lower timing gear and water pump gear... but all the details of the swap can be found in other threads, look and search through the Swaps forum, headswaps are currently very popular. our motors dont use pushrods, the cam, rockers and valves are all self contained in the head, the only thing passing between the block and head is the pistons, coolant, and oil.

            as far as F series headers, ive also heard the a4 one is the best (90-91 EX)... a6 is just about the same from what ive seen, the A1 is the cast ugly one.


            - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
            - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
            - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
            Current cars:
            - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
            - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

            Comment

            Working...
            X