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Rear main seal?

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    Rear main seal?

    I'm replacing my clutch when I get paid next (On the 5th) And I've been lurking around on how to do it and what I should replace when I got the tranny apart. I came across people saying "Replace the main seal" and "Oh sh*t, my main seal failed" I was just wondering what this main seal is, where it's located and what it does. Also, how much roughly it costs to replace. Pics would be greatly appreciated
    Skeazzy

    #2
    #32 in the pic below
    part #91214-PLE-003

    http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/a...k-oil-pan-scat

    For reliability, I suggest using a Honda brand seal over some cheap auto part store options. Though some have reported using them with out issues.

    I thought we had a DIY but can't seem to find one with a quick search. I'll try again tomorrow. You can try searching for some youtube videos




    Last edited by Tishock; 06-30-2015, 04:37 AM.


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      #3
      The rear main seal is something that, when it fails, your engine is likely to fail seconds later. If you don't cut the power as soon as it happens, the engine will be starved of oil and all sorts of things will be ruined... so DEFINITELY spend the money on a genuine Honda part!






      Comment


        #4
        Big thanks to Deev and Tishock, it seems like every time I have a stupid question you guys are always the first to respond with a lot of information.
        Skeazzy

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          #5
          Be careful not to scratch/gouge the crank when you remove the old one. I usually just screw a little screw into the seal and pull on that.

          Comment


            #6
            its located behind the clutch and flywheel. If you ever need to replace it in the future, youll be pissed that you have to take your new clutch alllll back out again. might as well pop a new one in while everything is apart, it only costs like $20


            - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
            - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
            - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
            Current cars:
            - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
            - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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              #7
              I didn't do mine either time that I did my clutch... not smart.






              Comment


                #8
                I don't think the rear main seal typically fails catastrophically; it usually starts leaking and continues to get worse, making a mess of the underside of your car and your driveway.

                According to the OEM service manual, it is supposed to be installed to a specific depth in the plate in which it is installed. Honda will sell you one already installed in the plate ($67 at Majestic, #8 in the sketch above) or just the seal ($13.61 at Majestic, #32 above). Unfortunately, to remove the plate you have to drop the oil pan. I just did this with the F22A6 I'm preparing to install in Ruby. I took the plate and seal to my local Honda dealer and they used the OEM tool to install it to the proper depth. Dropped the pan and cleaned it - just wiped it out with paper towels - it is as clean as the day it was made.
                Last edited by Fleetw00d; 06-30-2015, 11:29 PM.
                90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                  I don't think the rear main seal typically fails catastrophically; it usually starts leaking and continues to get worse, making a mess of the underside of your car and your driveway.

                  According to the OEM service manual, it is supposed to be installed to a specific depth in the plate in which it is installed. Honda will sell you one already installed in the plate ($67 at Majestic, #8 in the sketch above) or just the seal ($13.61 at Majestic, #32 above). Unfortunately, to remove the plate you have to drop the oil pan. I just did this with the F22A6 I'm preparing to install in Ruby. I took the plate and seal to my local Honda dealer and they used the OEM tool to install it to the proper depth. Dropped the pan and cleaned it - just wiped it out with paper towels - it is as clean as the day it was made.
                  How much did Honda charge for the install?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Probably a lot. Dropping the transmission itself is labor $$. As you have to take apart a bit of the suspension to get the axles out to drop it in the first place.

                    I went to a Honda shop to see if they could replace my 2-3rd gear synchro ring. They said they would lap it for 800. There's no way in hell I'm paying somebody almost a grand to put rubbing compound on a ring.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Skeazzy View Post
                      How much did Honda charge for the install?
                      Nothing. Note that the engine I'm working on is not in the car. I removed the pan and the plate and the old seal from the plate. I only took the plate and seal to the dealer - he took it back to the shop to see if they could do it - came back five minutes later with it installed.
                      90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                      08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I did this last year.

                        ON my h22 but the plate is the same. I took the plate off. removed the seal, used the old seal to seat the new seal and then put hondabond on the back of the plate and red loctite on the bolts for the plate. Whole process was about 30 minutes with the clutch already out. and the seal from honda was $18
                        My shop wanted $850 to change the clutch and rear main seal and swap trannys which I thought was bullshit because they had to remove the tranny anyway.

                        If you can change the clutch the rear seal isn't difficult.

                        Oh and I had to remove the oil pan to get the plate off there where some bolts running through the oil pan.

                        fast forward a year and no leaks.

                        and yes the manual said red loctite. Seemed stupid because I swear most of it came off when I puched the bolts through the hondabond. I used something else not hondabond from honda but newer and better higher temp stuff cant remember the name.

                        steve

                        Comment


                          #13
                          The Lord watches over me!

                          "Stop punching down on my people!!!"

                          - D. Chappelle

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Stoner51 View Post
                            I did this last year.



                            f I used something else not hondabond from honda but newer and better higher temp stuff cant remember the name.

                            steve
                            Ultraflange?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by gooseisloose View Post
                              Ultraflange?
                              Yes. Ultraflange thanks

                              steve

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