A Few Issues I've Been Dealing With..

[DukePhilip]

Hello, I have a 91 accord 5 spd with an h22a1 swap motor and transmission, all stock internals on both. The motor's top end has been rebuilt, so I'd say it has roughly 500 miles on it, and the bottom end has roughly 31,000 miles. I have a p13 ecu in the car with the original f22 harness modified for the h22 motor, I also had vtec & knock sensor wired up.

At the time of writing this, I have just went out & bought two jack stands so I can get underneath my car to figure some of these issues out.

I will list all of my issues here in hopes I can fix them all with your all's help.

Issue I. Ecu throws two codes:
1). 23 - Knock sensor; haven't checked behind the block yet, but the vtec used to work before I had to have the top end rebuilt due to a warped cylinder.
2). 41 - O2 sensor; recently had exhaust put back on and O2 sensor was severed.

Issue II. Surging idle occurs often but not always when in neutral or clutch is pressed & engine has warmed up; Otherwise it idles between 1,000 rpms - 1,200 rpms:
- I have checked for vacuum leaks to no avail.
- I've checked both my Idle Air Control & Fast Idle Air Control valves, both are fine.
- I've drained, refilled, drained & refilled my coolant system to rid it of air in the lines, also using the nipple behind the thermostat housing.
- EGR valve has a block-off plate but the vacuum hose is connected (I figured since it through no CEL that it wasn't an issue).

Issue III. Popping noise only when car has been driven & then turned off:
- I honestly have no idea.

Issue IV. Trouble shifting through the gears but not leaking any fluid:
*** Replaced Slave Cylinder with a new one I had lying around, bled the clutch system thoroughly [12-27-'13]

Issue V. Recently I discovered that the Oil Pan is missing either four or five oil pan bolts & needs replaced:
*** Replaced all missing Oil Pan Bolts [12-24-'13]

Issue VI. Just recently discovered that white smoke appears to be leaking from the thermostat housing while the car is running; while the car is off I noticed antifreeze dripping on the back of the block, just below the thermostat housing:
- The bolts appear to be tight on the Thermostat housing, the gasket doesn't appear broken and fliuid does not leak from the housing.

Update 1!

Here's a few pictures I took while I manged to get underneath the car:

- Oil Pressure Sensor


- Oil Pressure Sensor (close up)


- Oil Pan


- Significant Red-Tipped Bolt (side view)


- Significant Red-Tipped Bolt (front view)


Update 2!

Take off your VTEC solenoid and see if any debris is in the mesh screen. a rebuild could have clogged it and that could be why VTEC doesn't work right now.

- I have inspected the VTEC solenoid, it is fine, the gasket looks great and the filter isn't clogged.

- Your oil pan doesn't look too bad, is there a reason why you say you need a new one? You could probably get away with a new gasket, and adding the missing bolts. They are just standard 10mm bolts anyway.

- I put the missing 10mm bolts in the oil pan.

[Jarrett]

This may be one of those scenarios where you just have to start tidying up the small issues even if you think they're not the main culprits. Here's what I would replace based on what you've said:

1) O2 sensor first and foremost. This is very likely the cause for your car running like ass some of the time. If it's broken then it's a no-brainer to fix it.

2) Take off your VTEC solenoid and see if any debris is in the mesh screen. a rebuild could have clogged it and that could be why VTEC doesn't work right now.

3) Oil cooler seal along with a new filter and an oil change. This isn't one of your codes but it's still a known problem with a cheap fix. The side effects are a clean engine that doesn't leak and fresh oil.

4) Replace your thermostat and get new seals for the thermostat housing and water pipe.

Failing that I would have the coolant system pressure tested for any leaks. Keep us posted.

[DukePhilip]

This may be one of those scenarios where you just have to start tidying up the small issues even if you think they're not the main culprits. Here's what I would replace based on what you've said:

1) O2 sensor first and foremost. This is very likely the cause for your car running like ass some of the time. If it's broken then it's a no-brainer to fix it.

2) Take off your VTEC solenoid and see if any debris is in the mesh screen. a rebuild could have clogged it and that could be why VTEC doesn't work right now.

3) Oil cooler seal along with a new filter and an oil change. This isn't one of your codes but it's still a known problem with a cheap fix. The side effects are a clean engine that doesn't leak and fresh oil.

4) Replace your thermostat and get new seals for the thermostat housing and water pipe.

Failing that I would have the coolant system pressure tested for any leaks. Keep us posted.

Thanks Jarrett for replying. When I have done something on your list I will reply on this thread to keep you informed on what's going on!

[Fleetw00d]

Issue IV: Bleed the clutch hydraulic system well, particularly if you have replaced components. You might also try a fluid change in the transmission; I suggest using Honda manual transmission fluid (2 quarts).

Issue V: If it is only missing nuts or bolts, the pan doesn't necessarily need to be replaced (or is it damaged?). If not leaking too badly, at least get the necessary bolts or nuts and install them (I hope they are not missing because someone stripped the threads in the block). Best thing to do would be to install a new gasket; if you need a new pan, install a new gasket at that time.

[reklipz]

As well, isn't the sensor below the oil filter the oil pressure switch, not the knock sensor? I don't know much about the H series, except that I believe they're very similar in design and layout to the F series, which leads me to believe the sensor in question is the oil pressure switch (or aftermarket sensor), and that the knock sensor is on the rear of the engine (side opposite the timing belt; on the right side of the vehicle).

[cp[mike]]

Welcome to the site!

As well, isn't the sensor below the oil filter the oil pressure switch, not the knock sensor? I don't know much about the H series, except that I believe they're very similar in design and layout to the F series, which leads me to believe the sensor in question is the oil pressure switch (or aftermarket sensor), and that the knock sensor is on the rear of the engine (side opposite the timing belt; on the right side of the vehicle).

- Correct, the sensor pictured (with the small screw connection) is actually the Oil Pressure Sensor. It should be connected to the single wire that comes out of the harness just above the oil filter (i think its yellow with a red stripe?)

The knock sensor is actually above the oil filter, hidden deep in there. It's a 2-pin round plug-on connector, but only has one of the two pins populated. This is the one that gets connected to the red wire to the ECU.


- Your oil pan doesn't look too bad, is there a reason why you say you need a new one? You could probably get away with a new gasket, and adding the missing bolts. They are just standard 10mm bolts anyway.

I would only replace the O2 sensor, AFTER fixing the oil pan. You don't want gritty, cruddy oil getting all over the new sensor. While you have the old sensor out and disconnected, inspect the plug and wiring that is coming from the engine side, make sure everything is clean and intact.


- For the red-tipped bolt, that's normal. For some reason, it came painted from the factory. Probably from some inspection process.


- I agree with Jarrett, take off the VTEC solenoid and clean out the screen and moving pin assembly. It is often clogged with sludge.


- Also replacing the thermostat and seal is a good idea, but it sounds like the actual location of the coolant leak is probably from the "water pipe" the black tube across the back of the engine. There is an O-ring where it connects into the back of the t-stat housing. 2 bolts to open the housing, 3 bolts to actually remove it from the block. While you have it pulled off to replace the o-ring, inspect the rubber hoses leading to/from it. There is a short 180degree U-shaped hose there that often gets brittle and starts to leak.

The coolant leak sounds like the source of your inconsistant idle, and possibly even be related to vtec not engaging. If you drive with a leak, air bubbles get re-introduced so you can never trust that there isn't air in the lines. Get the coolant leak fixed, refill and re-bleed all of the lines, THEN see how everything is.

[DukePhilip]

So I managed to snap a picture of something else I noticed today while I was underneath the car.

I'm missing a transmission bolt!

Welcome to the site!



- Correct, the sensor pictured (with the small screw connection) is actually the Oil Pressure Sensor. It should be connected to the single wire that comes out of the harness just above the oil filter (i think its yellow with a red stripe?)

The knock sensor is actually above the oil filter, hidden deep in there. It's a 2-pin round plug-on connector, but only has one of the two pins populated. This is the one that gets connected to the red wire to the ECU.


- Your oil pan doesn't look too bad, is there a reason why you say you need a new one? You could probably get away with a new gasket, and adding the missing bolts. They are just standard 10mm bolts anyway.

I would only replace the O2 sensor, AFTER fixing the oil pan. You don't want gritty, cruddy oil getting all over the new sensor. While you have the old sensor out and disconnected, inspect the plug and wiring that is coming from the engine side, make sure everything is clean and intact.


- For the red-tipped bolt, that's normal. For some reason, it came painted from the factory. Probably from some inspection process.


- I agree with Jarrett, take off the VTEC solenoid and clean out the screen and moving pin assembly. It is often clogged with sludge.


- Also replacing the thermostat and seal is a good idea, but it sounds like the actual location of the coolant leak is probably from the "water pipe" the black tube across the back of the engine. There is an O-ring where it connects into the back of the t-stat housing. 2 bolts to open the housing, 3 bolts to actually remove it from the block. While you have it pulled off to replace the o-ring, inspect the rubber hoses leading to/from it. There is a short 180degree U-shaped hose there that often gets brittle and starts to leak.

The coolant leak sounds like the source of your inconsistant idle, and possibly even be related to vtec not engaging. If you drive with a leak, air bubbles get re-introduced so you can never trust that there isn't air in the lines. Get the coolant leak fixed, refill and re-bleed all of the lines, THEN see how everything is.

I will get right on all of this, thanks for the correction on the Oil Pressure Sensor. Also, thanks for the size on the bolts for the oil pan, I had no idea! The oil pan itself isn't in bad shape, it's not dented much at all.

Update!

- I have inspected the VTEC solenoid, it is fine, the gasket looks great and the filter isn't clogged.
- I put the missing 10mm bolts in the oil pan.

[DukePhilip]

I'm having a really tough time finding the flange bolt that I need for my transmission pictured above. Can anyone help me out in locating it?

[cp[mike]]

I'm having a really tough time finding the flange bolt that I need for my transmission pictured above. Can anyone help me out in locating it?

You may want to pick one of those up from the dealer, or a junkyard. There are no other bolts on the car that is interchangeable with that one... it's short!

[DukePhilip]

Do you happen to know the size of the bolt, mike?

[illinois_erik]

013 BOLT, FLANGE (12X30)
015 BOLT, FLANGE (12X60)

if that picture is of #13, be aware it could possibly be sheared off.
i think theyre 1.5 thread pitch, so 12mm in diameter(the bolt not head) and 30mm long.
When I worked on my car I found the same bolt "missing" and a couple other needed replaced around the car. I went to Fastenall instead of the dealer because i wasnt going to pay like 6 bucks a bolt from them. But you cant find what you need at the hardware store either.

[DukePhilip]

013 BOLT, FLANGE (12X30)
015 BOLT, FLANGE (12X60)

if that picture is of #13, be aware it could possibly be sheared off.
i think theyre 1.5 thread pitch, so 12mm in diameter(the bolt not head) and 30mm long.
When I worked on my car I found the same bolt "missing" and a couple other needed replaced around the car. I went to Fastenall instead of the dealer because i wasnt going to pay like 6 bucks a bolt from them. But you cant find what you need at the hardware store either.

Thank you for that diagram!

It is infact #13, so would this be the bolt I'm looking for?

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...h%3A162700%7C~

Update!

I just went to pep boys and bought my o2 sensor but I won't be able to put it on until tomorrow. I will keep you all posted!

[DukePhilip]

Hey guys, I know it's been a while, but for the sake of this thread & others who will ever come across these similar situations:

- My surging idle could have been caused from any single and/or all of these reason(s):
* water pipe leaking from thermostat housing end
* some hole located to the left of the IAT sensor on the TB had a black plastic screw
jammed inside, I managed to remove the plastic screw and instead put a bolt inside.
(I do not know what actually goes there).

** I haven't completely fixed this problem yet.

- Coolant leak:
* coolant was leaking from the thermostat housing due to the water pipe connected
at the TH end being dirty & improperly placed. Coolant no longer leaks after
cleaning the water pipe & replacing the gasket.
* the white smoke seeping from the thermostat housing was because of the coolant
Leak

** Fixed

- Leaking clutch fluid after replacing slave cylinder (and before replacing):
* clutch master cylinder was going out; I am in the process of replacing the cylinder
with a new one.

** WIP

- O2 Sensor

* new O2 sensor was ordered, I have it. I just have to wire it up & drop the exhaust to install the sensor in to the exhaust downpipe.

** WIP

- Oil Pan leaking oil:

* originally thought oil was leaking from the OP due to missing bolts. I replaced the
missing bolts and no longer am leaking oil from the OP.