So I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this or not but I have a moderately built h22 swap and I let my buddy drive it and he went to shift into fourth but went into second and now car won't. Run seams like has no compresion please help this is my daily
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Sounds like you may have bent valves. If it was me I would pull the valve cover and have a friend crank it over while watching the valves to see if some dont move. For me that would be the easiest cheapest way to check although I'm sure a more knowledgeable member will chime is soon. Or get a compression tester and do a compression test. -
How the heck does someone miss shift from 3rd to 4th and get into 2nd? 4th is litterally straight down? Anyhow, that's beyond the point. What you'll need to do is check to make sure that you didn't blow your pistons and valves. If it doesn't start and sounds like there's no compression, do a compression test. There's a thousand reasons as to why it won't start. Is it trying to crank over?Comment
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I've done exactly that while racing an SRT-4. In fact, I know half a dozen people that have. In my case, it was due to having a short shifter installed. Shifting was very notchy, and 3-4 felt little different from 3-2. I've also known some very enthusiastic shifters in the past that could slam a wrong gear without realizing it.
I was very lucky. I'm sure my engine revved to 10k RPM at least, but it suffered no damage. Every one of my friends (some are staff members here) that have done it have bent valves and scored pistons.
Do a compression test, as koslauj suggested. If you bent valves, that will tell you. If you bent valves, you'll have to take the head off and replace them. You may have scored pistons as well, which would also warrant replacement (damage to a piston's surface can result in detonation due to those scored areas heating up and igniting the air/fuel mixture at the wrong time... major damage can result from this.)
Now is your chance to turn your moderately built H22 into a fully built H22! Perhaps your buddy will be responsible and help pay for it. You can retain your FRM sleeves (saving $1000+) by using Mahle Gold Series pistons, as long as your sleeves aren't damaged.
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So let me give u a little info on car its a 12.5:1 compression h22a euro spec. Its been resleeved had domed pistons that have valve reliefs and I'm running pretty large cams ( skunk 2 pro series stage 3) and car is normally shifted at 12500 rpms with rev limiter set at 13200 car has full valve terrien upgrade minus valves has stock valves because I was worried about piston to valve contact and yes it has been tuned. Its been running this way for around 2 years only change was end of last summer went for retune and added itbs and been daily driven 150 miles a day 5 days a week with no problems .
Now for the issue it was cranking and trying to start but def sounded like it was low on compression but it finally fired up with we holding throttle wide open. Wasn't a knock or any valve noise that was loud and apparent but car wouldn't idle on its on and ran cruddy under 1500 rpms. Once it was above that 1500 rpm range it ran fine up to 3500 rpms which is where my two step is and we didn't move car so couldn't get it to rev past that nor did I want to lol. Then we cut it off and tried to start and it then sounded like it had no compression. I also noticed that the cam gears were a tooth of now. Now I didn't check crank marks yet or haven't taken anything apart yet but trying to get input of what I'm looking forward to when I tear down Friday night so I can make sure I have parts lined up but on a very tight budget lol also btw pistons are forgedComment
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Originally posted by myfirstcb7 View Post
Lol, thought you were serious man. People are taking time out of their days to give you honest help.
Then you make up these shenanigans about 12.5:1 compression, normally shifting at 12,500 on skunk 2 cams and all this and that about how awesome your build is, then to top it off with a "very tight budget"
Come on guy.
Nobody rev's to 12,500
On a serious note you may have skipped timing, blown a valve or ?? Lots of variables here. Symptoms sound like you are having timing issues.
NOBODY REV'S TO 12,500
Welcome to the tuner world. Please recognize that this is 1 step away from being a full blown ricer.
Please, take a second and think about how you are projecting yourself through your exaggerations. Nobody will take you seriously if you are not being 100% completely honest.
Welcome to the forum.Originally posted by wed3kComment
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does not most our engines red line at 7000-9000 even if all forged your talking motor cycle engines reves either you have a bad tach or your number are a little off.. would love to see a video when she is all done...Comment
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With that amount invested in the bottom end I would have called into work to take off the head. I was able to get a dohc 1.6 running with those same symptoms, only with the throttle open no compression I even drove it around the block. Probly a mistake, when I pulled the head the middle cylinders where connected by a quarter size whole at the head gasket, Probly all I needed before I went all mcgiver on getting it started.
(I shifted at 8200), could do 10000 with that motor). I haven't heard of 12,500 rpm daily driver h22's. That would sound amazing. When does your v-tec kick in?
Again, check the head then pull it off. I wouldent turn that starter one more time. Maybe on the way to getting the head off you will find one of the limitless possibilities.
A spark plug is sitting in the valve cover,
You distributor cracked a shaft,
You have a bent valve,
Your cam gears jumped a tooth ...ectLast edited by cb7 calling; 02-13-2013, 08:46 PM.......father in law has it back again. Time to shineComment
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now Danny, do you really expect anyone to believe you rev to 12.5? later.Comment
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Hell, even my built rotary wouldnt rev past 10,200 +/-. And it sounded like its about to explode at that point.
I think everyone is trying to help him with an invisible engine. If not the correct information has been given. Pull the head, then go from there.
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"oh, by the way, the engine is heavily modified"...
At this point I'm not sure if you're a troll or an idiot... but I'm convinced you're certainly one or the other, if not both.
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Could this be that guy that you banned and keeps coming back with different accounts?
The one who was in the rules thread in beginner technical?MRT
37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit
Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car
Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
Originally posted by Tippey764Originally posted by deevergoteComment
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No, I think this guy is unique. That's too much effort for that last guy.
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Last edited by GeoffM; 02-14-2013, 09:21 AM.MRT
37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit
Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car
Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
Originally posted by Tippey764Originally posted by deevergoteComment
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Its a shame too because good info and peoples time was given.
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